Ultegra Hydraulic Disc Brake Caliper BR-R8070 issues
I’m installing some new front disk pads but I’m having issues with the pistons retracting back flush , I can get one side flush but pushing the other side out and vice versa .
The disk Disk rota wont fit between the new pads , my brakes are Ultegra BR-R8070 and my new pads are L04C Metal.
I recently had my cables shortened to accommodate a new handlebar do you think its possible their is too much fluid in the system after bleeding my brakes .
The disk Disk rota wont fit between the new pads , my brakes are Ultegra BR-R8070 and my new pads are L04C Metal.
I recently had my cables shortened to accommodate a new handlebar do you think its possible their is too much fluid in the system after bleeding my brakes .
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This is the extension tube you need https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares ... 3ec8c25c2f
to go with the funnel from this https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/shima ... 3ec8c25c2f.
Other retailers are available of course.
You'll also need the appropriate allen or torx key to get the lever reservoir cap off, I can't remember which, and the bleed block of course, something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Disc ... Sw5VFWJQqT.
Something to note, when trying to get the block into my 8070 calipers, I found there was a small pin in the way. No idea what it's for, can't find anything in the docs about it, but it can be pushed back into the caliper body using a blunt instrument (screwdriver blade for instance) to get the block in, and pushed back out when finished.
Thanks for the advice .
Marin Nail Trail
Cotic Solaris
Then try very gently pushing the pads apart once installed with a large flat headed screwdriver. If the rotor still won’t fit then next with someone helping you remove the bleed screw on the shifters. Then gently push the pads back and hold them back, at the same time the other person screws the bleed screw back in catching any fluid released with kitchen roll. Once screw is tight let go of pads, refit wheel and after riding the bike & braking a few times you should be fine.
If pads still rub just loosen bolts on brake calliper slightly, pull brake on & hold on, tighten bolts and release brake. Again ride bike and brake a few times.
Just be careful to do it slowly and gently or you may lose too much fluid and get air in. This would then need a bleeding kit.
Marin Nail Trail
Cotic Solaris
According to Shimano L04C Metal pads are compatible , Could this be my problem ?
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... 070-F.html
Good to hear, disk brakes tend to be pretty much fit and forget once set up right.
The main problem they get is contamination from oil or similar, often if the chain has too much lube on it spraying the excess all over the rotor & calliper. As long as that is avoided they are fine.
I use the Epic syringes. Put the empty one at the lever, fill the other one and force the fluid up from the caliper, gently until the fluid emerging from the lever end is bubble free. It helps to have the caliper as low as possible and a complete ‘uphill’ run to the lever (especially a back brake).
Now follow the instructions to remove any remaining air from the caliper end. Syringe at the lever should have plenty of clean fluid in it. Put the hose on the bleed nipple at the caliper and the other end into an small plastic bag, using an elastic band to hold it onto the pipe.
Now open the bleed nut in a quick burst whilst pulling the lever. It is a quick open and close, just to get a ‘squirt’ of fluid out. Keep doing this until the fluid coming out has no bubbles of air in it. Make sure the syringe at the lever never runs out of fluid or you will start sucking air back in that end!
Once the air is all removed check the lever feel. It should be solid and not pull all the way to the bars. A couple more blasts on the bleed nut can help stiffen up the feel if required. Once it is solid you are there, apart from adjusting lever throw and biting point adjustments as necessary (especially if these have never been done before).
Clean everything off thoroughly ensuring there are no traces of fluid around the caliper or oozing down the sides of your lever under the hood. Replace your pads, ensure your disc rotor is clean using isopropyl alcohol and that’s it.
It can help sometimes to leave the bike in a position to keep that uphill slope from caliper to lever, and leave the lever applied with a rubber band overnight if you just can’t seem to get all the air out. The next day you should find the bubbles at the top in the lever, so a quick bleed can expel it - you will only need a little bit of fluid to expel the few bubbles that were left.
PP