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Tubeless tyres sealent maintenance

andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
edited April 2019 in Workshop
Hi all, happy Easter.
I've recently got a new bike set up with Hunt wheels and G1 tires. So far touch wood been absolutely fine, however from the research I've' done I'm aware I need to periodically check and top up the sealent. I've also read as water base the heat can speed up the evaporation of the sealent.
As new set up, no problems yet, less than 3 months old, i don't really want to break the seals of the tyres.
I do have access to an air compressor if needed to help reseat the tyres if needed but I've also read some sealent don't like c02.
I've seen two methods of topping up sealent the firs is to half take the tyre off and then add sealent to the bottom of the tyre and the other is to use an injector into the valve core which I think I would prefer, however few questions;

If I deflated the tyres would the sealent also come out and clogg the valve up?

Could I use the following injectorctor syringe as an extractor to see how much liquid sealent is left and the top up if needed?

Although I've read you don't need to, do you clean the old sealent out?

Basically how do you maintain your tubeless set up so it will work when needed ie out on road to prevent puncture.

I heard someone refer to a pin test, I can only assume they mean put a pin hole in tyre and if seals all good, but it seems a bit extreme to deliberately put a small hole in a good tyre every 3 months or so..
Thanks

Posts

  • tonysjtonysj Posts: 359
    I simply put the bike in a stand and get the value to the side of the wheel like at 4 o'clock. Let the air out, unscrew the valve. Turn the wheel so the valve is now at the bottom, 6 o'clock, using anything that's thin and long enough to go down the valve and reach the bottom inside of the true. Pull out and check for signs of sealant. I generally like to see around 5mm of sealant on the dipstick if less I use a syringe and tube to inject sealant into the tyre.
    No need to break the seal of the tyre and I leave the old dried sealant inside as it's a Real pain to clean it all out. Yes I've done that in the past....And what benefit, a few grams of weight saved!!!
    Then put the valve back, inflate and spun the wheel and check for any leaks.
    Job done, Easy.
    T
  • lesfirthlesfirth Posts: 1,135
    Thanks for the info Tony.

    I am in the same position as Andy and wondered what I was going to have to do. Read lots of times that I need to add / check sealant but never read how.
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    Thanks Tony.
    Yes I forgot my also read about the dipstick method.

    Do all tubeless tyres have a removable core valve?

    Will the sealent not start clogging up the valve or squirt out as the pressure forces the sealent out

    If leaving the old dealt in, won't the new sealent "bind" /be obstructed by the old debrie /sealent?
  • lincolndavelincolndave Posts: 9,183
    All the tubeless valves I have come across have removable cores, I only use one make of sealant so topping up should not be a problem,
    I have never mixed sealants ( or used different sealants in the same tyre, I am not sure how well they would mix )
    I always remove the valve core at the 12 o’clock position after deflating the tyre
    Hope this is some help to you
  • tonysjtonysj Posts: 359
    Will the sealent not start clogging up the valve or squirt out as the pressure forces the sealent out

    A little trick I've found through trial and error is when you are about to inject the sealant I slightly push the tyre inwards from the tread outer edge. ( NOT the sidewalls ) This expelled a tiny bit of air and when you inject the sealant it doesn't bubble back out the valve.
    Note that I only use a small syringe of about 5ml capacity so have to inject the sealant anything up to 10 - 15 times but it's generally very cleanly done with virtually no over spill
    Good luck guys it's fun lol
    T.
  • orlokorlok Posts: 87
    TonySJ wrote:
    Note that I only use a small syringe of about 5ml capacity so have to inject the sealant anything up to 10 - 15 times but it's generally very cleanly done with virtually no over spill
    Good luck guys it's fun lol
    T.
    Why don't use one of 50ml.? :roll:
    There will be always a moment of tailwind.
    Pinarello F8/10 - Ultegra 6800 - Carbonspeed C38 UST - Tubeless
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    TonySJ wrote:
    Will the sealent not start clogging up the valve or squirt out as the pressure forces the sealent out

    A little trick I've found through trial and error is when you are about to inject the sealant I slightly push the tyre inwards from the tread outer edge. ( NOT the sidewalls )

    ẞprry just to clarify , I mean won't the sealent clogg the valve as you deflate the air prior to removing the valve core?
  • tonysjtonysj Posts: 359
    Orlok wrote:
    TonySJ wrote:
    Note that I only use a small syringe of about 5ml capacity so have to inject the sealant anything up to 10 - 15 times but it's generally very cleanly done with virtually no over spill
    Good luck guys it's fun lol
    T.
    Why don't use one of 50ml.? :roll:
    I don't have one that size so use the one I've got.
  • tonysjtonysj Posts: 359
    AndyH01 wrote:
    TonySJ wrote:
    Will the sealent not start clogging up the valve or squirt out as the pressure forces the sealent out

    A little trick I've found through trial and error is when you are about to inject the sealant I slightly push the tyre inwards from the tread outer edge. ( NOT the sidewalls )

    ẞprry just to clarify , I mean won't the sealent clogg the valve as you deflate the air prior to removing the valve core?
    No you should be fine. Just make sure the valve is to the side 3 or 4 o'clock and any sealant that's on the valve inside will be blown out clear by the air escaping..
    T
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    i simply inject new sealant when I get a puncture that does not seal. I use plugs to fix that puncture. If the valve is clogged I clean it out with my patented (I wish) sapim laser spoke tool.

    tubeless needs to be simple or there no point. all the above is over compliccated. I get no issues with my no maintanence method so it must work.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • lesfirthlesfirth Posts: 1,135
    i simply inject new sealant when I get a puncture that does not seal. I use plugs to fix that puncture. If the valve is clogged I clean it out with my patented (I wish) sapim laser spoke tool.

    tubeless needs to be simple or there no point. all the above is over compliccated. I get no issues with my no maintanence method so it must work.

    It strikes me that you do have issues with your maintenance. I thought the whole point of tubeless with sealant was that you would not get punctures that do not seal. I think it is a better idea to carry out maintenance before you find out that your sealant,or lack of, is not able to do its job. If you get punctures that do not seal your method obviously does not work.
  • mangliermanglier Posts: 728
    Regarding valve cores, yes they do occasionally become clogged up with sealant but they are as cheap as chips and replacing them when clogged is about the easiest job you can do, just make sure that the valve is not at BDC when you release the pressure.
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