Conti GP5k TL

brokenbanjo
brokenbanjo Posts: 20
edited May 2019 in Road buying advice
Has anyone tried fitting them to Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 wheels? I’ve had a full body workout, took two hours and snapped one and scarred 5 other tyre levers. Is it just me or are they a nightmare to mount?

Comments

  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Yes they are. Couldn't mount mine on Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST so put them up for sale. I think it's a combination of thick beads and stiff casing which doesn't bend enough to make them easy to mount.
  • perfectmark
    perfectmark Posts: 117
    I have noticed that tyres are a lot harder to put on my tubeless compatible set of wheels, compared to my 2 non-tubeless sets. Spent almost 2 hours trying to install a Continental GP GT yesterday, I found the trick is to put a leaver in the side you have already done, opposite the part of the tyre you are still trying to get in the rim (so it stretches the tyre a bit).
  • Wayne Plunger
    Wayne Plunger Posts: 444
    brokenbanjo wrote:
    Has anyone tried fitting them to Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3 wheels? I’ve had a full body workout, took two hours and snapped one and scarred 5 other tyre levers. Is it just me or are they a nightmare to mount?

    To be fair I fitted tubes and tyres to very same wheels and I got a bit of a sweat on and issued a few profanities!

    Haven't tried going tubeless yet as the tyres I had were virtually brand new.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I was doing a workshop on tyre fitting for the club and even one of the self reliant mechanics learnt a trick or two from me about tyre fitting. It turned an impossible to mount by hand tyre (clincher) into possible. Bluntly it not the tyre it your technique.

    Chasing the slack is essential and most people either don't do it or don't do it right. I have no trouble mounting these tyres. My levers don't snap either.

    Please don't blame the equipment it very easy to do and mostly it blamed incorrectly. Tubeless tyres need to be a snug fit and require good technique to mount.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Thing is there is no room for both the beads to go in the rim well at least on my wheels so chasing the slack does nothing on this particular combo. I even measured the tire beads of the GP5K vs the rim well. They also do not stretch to allow both of them to fit in there.

    It could be that they made them more specifically for wider rims like 19mm internal. Have you tried to mount them on 17c or less?

    I even tried the zip ties method and 2 tire levers, but it's of no use if both beads can't fit in the well.
  • Jacksyee
    Jacksyee Posts: 48
    What does chasing the slack mean?
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,616
    Jacksyee wrote:
    What does chasing the slack mean?

    Have a search on You Tube for "fitting tight bicycle tyres" or similar and you'll find there are some decent videos which show the technique.
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Jacksyee wrote:
    What does chasing the slack mean?

    Have a look at this video. Bit dated now but shows the principles of "chasing the slack"

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

    Of course as @zefs has already alluded to, it presupposes that there is enough of a well in the centre of the wheel rim to accommodate the tyre beads. Some rim profiles may be more problematic than others
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    they mount on mavic UST (open pro rims wirth two layers of tesa 4280 tape) wheels. I have tried. I chased the slack sucessfully. i did use a lever but i have to with IRC on mavic Open pro USt rims anyway. so Zef your not right on this. If can get them on without struggling you can too.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Open pro is 19c also if you used the 28mm tires that should be easier too as they are wider.
  • mikecassie
    mikecassie Posts: 39
    I've got them, one was an absolute bas***d to fit to the front rim and the other tyre fitted easily to the rear rim. If I'd gauged them purely on the first example I'd have said they were shite but the 2nd tyre fitted so easily. I'm now in two minds whether it was me or just a mismatch between tyre and rim for that one example. I called the shop where I bought the tyres from and they said they'd not had issues...
    Rims were Enve 5.6s for comparison.
    I've fitted Hutchinson tyres to Hunt rims and they were a doddle, I'll see whether to stick to GP5k's when it comes time to replace them.
  • manoirdelourde
    manoirdelourde Posts: 133
    Has anyone tried fitting these to Giant SLR1 wheels? They are about 2 years old so probably not the latest model. Was thinking about fitting some to Mrs M’s bike but won’t bother if they are a bitch to get on and off . . . currently running Pirelli Cinturatos but they seem a bit draggy . . .
    Got a place in the Pyrenees.
    Do bike and ski stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I have only fitted 25's zef in these contis. 25's fit done on 19mm internal width rim regardless of of what Mavic say.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • scotthunter
    scotthunter Posts: 140
    manoirdelourde wrote:
    Has anyone tried fitting these to Giant SLR1 wheels? They are about 2 years old so probably not the latest model. Was thinking about fitting some to Mrs M’s bike but won’t bother if they are a ***** to get on and off . . . currently running Pirelli Cinturatos but they seem a bit draggy . . .

    Yes, I got GP5000 TL on my Giant SLR One wheels (2018 model) and they work well and feel better than the Gavia Race One tyres they replaced. Can't say how easy it was as my LBS did it for me. I would say get the Continental sealant to go with them.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    not the revo sealant it is almost as bad as the finish line stuff It maybe as bad. I'drather use stans than those two andI am no fan of stans.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • scotthunter
    scotthunter Posts: 140
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    not the revo sealant it is almost as bad as the finish line stuff It maybe as bad. I'drather use stans than those two andI am no fan of stans.

    What's so bad about the Revo sealant? Continental recommends you use it for the GP5000 TL.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    It does not seal holes very well. Of course conti are going to recommend there own sealant. They also recommend there own tubular glue which is rubbish. Vittoria mastik one, now that's a good tub glue.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • alanyu
    alanyu Posts: 73
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    not the revo sealant it is almost as bad as the finish line stuff It maybe as bad. I'drather use stans than those two andI am no fan of stans.

    Now Schwalbe DOC blue is discounted on wiggle, cheaper than stans. It lasts longer than stans. I always use this for road tubeless, working perfectly up till now.
  • scotthunter
    scotthunter Posts: 140
    Has anyone tried both the Conti GP5000 TL vs. Schwalbe Pro One? Curious to know if the supposedly lower rolling resistance of the GP5000 is more important than a 40g weight difference for my climbing wheels.
  • gareth1234
    gareth1234 Posts: 107
    I’ve bought the 23mm version (ride a 2014 S5 VWD so the 25’s won’t fit) and they were an absolute swine to mount on Fulcrum Zero’s, had to soak in hot water and washing up liquid to get them on, I hope I never puncture!!

    To be fair the 25mm 4000’s weren’t much easier on these wheels.
  • storckman
    storckman Posts: 2
    I just thought I would post to my thread my recent experiences.... so others may learn from my errors.

    Open Pro UST rims. Not used in summer, so got them out, cleaned them down, removed all of the old sealant. I could not get the Conti GP5000 TLs on last time - I shamefacedly took them to LBS to get them on - they hated me for it - but got them on. Once they were sorted last winter, they were great, love them.

    1) Clean all old sealant off, can't get tyres back on, take to LBS and they do it.
    2) Put sealant in (CaffeLatex) - front holds pressure, rear goes flat.
    3) Replace rim tape (looked a bit battered - probably from me swearing with tyre levers trying to wrestle tyre back on. Use Prime rim tape - two layers. Purchase LifeLine Tyre Seating tool - get tyre back on. Tyre inflates, tyre then goes down slowly....
    4) Top up pressure, go for a ride, tyre goes down quicker - and have to stop and reinflate.... grrrr.
    5) Decide the issue is with the rim tape - thicker than the original rim tape. Replace the rim tape with one layer of rim tape. This time the tyre "pops" as I was expecting. ....... tyre goes down
    6) Clean tyre beads and remove all traces of sealant from tyre bead. Reinflate and dunk in water to see where leaks are.... not from the bead but through the sidewall - I have seen this before and know that the Conti is not 'natively' air tight without sealant. So put 40ml (instead of recommended 30ml) of sealant in this time, took the time to slowly rotate the wheel, in all dimensions, lay flat for 10 mins on once side, then the other.....

    It seems to be holding pressure properly so far.

    Lessons learned....

    1) if I am using the same sealant after the wheels have not been used for a season - I won't bother to clean the old sealant out. The contis stay on the rims pretty well and the sealant hadn't dried out. I will just top it up.
    2) They are total PITA to get on to these rims - the tyre tool was the only way I can get the tyre on - very glad I bought that.
    3) Check the rim tape and buy the same again if I am purchasing again. If there is no "pop" the tyre isn't seated.

    I do rate the Contis over Schwalbe Pros - that is why I persevered. IMHO they are more durable and more grippy.

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