What tools & sundries for new bike maintenance

andyh01

Hi all
So finally got a new bike, aluminium frame, ultegra groupset with carbon bars and posts, internal routed cables , disc brakes and tubeless tyres.
I've never had hydraulic discs or tubeless tyres before so have no tools or bits for them
What bits would I need?

I'm looking at an XTool torque wrench 2-25Nm approx £30 or a similar alternative but reversible.

Hydraulic bleeding kit but not sure which one?

Lenyz pump but which one approx £25

Tubeless tyre care kit
Tyre sealent - do you use syringes to see how much sealent there is and/or do you take the tyre off clean old sealent out and refit?

At the moment it's all running/working fine, although I do want to run additional cables for lights in frame which means Def need to bleed brakes, and I could guess the torque and wait until I have an issue with tyres or do I get bits now so have to hand?
Although I am tempted to change tyres from Shawbla G Ones 700x35 to 32 or 28 slick

4xsama

AndyH01 wrote:

I'm looking at an XTool torque wrench 2-25Nm approx £30 or a similar alternative but reversible.

I'm after a torque wrench too so will be looking at this post with interest.

andyh01

They were on sale the other week for £25 as well from chain reaction then wiggle comes with about 10 bits too. I just wonder how much I "need" one and whether need a reversible one
Look on eBay /Amazon £30 just seems a bit much for very occasional use I've managed so far without but then never had carbon or a £3k bike/£300 bars as well the hydraulic brakes or tubeless wheels, just a lot of start up costs

4xsama

I'm in Aus and cost is around $45-50. Next best is a BBB/Park Tool which starts at about $140 AUD so the X Tools isn't bad value. You could use a bar type https://www.wiggle.com.au/topeak-combo-torq-wrench/ (which I am really tempted to get) . The thing which worries me a bit about the X Tool (and other wrench styl etools) is the calibration. The Topeak one @ $27.75 AUD looks a lot simpler and less likely to loose its calibration.

Alejandrosdog

Never skimp on bike tools, buy the best you can afford

Buy a quality set of hex keys, bondhus are a good brand, I think you can get a good t handle set from screwfix and because it doesn’t say bike on it they’re not stupidly expensive.

Before long you’ll be surfing the abbey bike tools website and getting all drooly:)

daniel_b

4xsama wrote:

AndyH01 wrote:

I'm looking at an XTool torque wrench 2-25Nm approx £30 or a similar alternative but reversible.

I'm after a torque wrench too so will be looking at this post with interest.

I've used this for 6 years, after it was recommended on here, quality unit.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-2-24nm-1-47-17-70lb-ft-Micrometer/dp/B000RO1ZCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=Stw1012&qid=1555394495&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Alejandrosdog

Your new bike deserves the best. This is on offer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wera-051301100 ... way&sr=8-4

andyh01

I understand you get what you pay for and if full carbon bike then I'd be more inclined but £100 odd for a torque set is a bit much for me.
I'd seen the other one at £28 but that's just the wrench no bits and has a 3/8inch head so not sure if I would need an adaptor to fit the bits I have or whether it's a reversible.

I also need bits to to bleed brakes so I can add additional cables in

I also need to be able to maintain the tubeless setup and half tempted to try some slicker tyres but this may have to wait.

I could also do with some new clothes bibs etc

Getting expensive...

arlowood

This from Wiggle is all you need

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-essent ... lLEALw_wcB

Have had a set and used it for several bike builds. Works fine - no need to spend £150 on a torque set.

Also I spotted your other thread asking about running cables for a light set and the need to disconnect and re-connect your hydraulic brakes in order to do this. Would a simpler solution not be to buy a light that does not need wiring to a battery? That would avoid the need to faff about with trying to run the light cable through the existing brake/shifter internal routing ports

Matthewfalle

4xsama wrote:

AndyH01 wrote:

I'm looking at an XTool torque wrench 2-25Nm approx £30 or a similar alternative but reversible.

I'm after a torque wrench too so will be looking at this post with interest.

sealey draper used in these parts for years with never a problem

not sure why you want one though - all stem bolts, seat post etc are 4-6Nm so get a 5Nm Ritchey tourque key. cheaper and less hassle. have used one for years and they are brilliant.

cassettes are 40NM so you need a bigger wrench.

andyh01

Yeah the one on wiggle is one I was looking at, as I say was on sale at £25 not so.long ago

The price of pre set torque is comparable to an adjustable one, even if not full range required.

My other thread is what made me realise I don't have the right bits for the new bike.

"Also I spotted your other thread asking about running cables for a light set and the need to disconnect and re-connect your hydraulic brakes in order to do this. Would a simpler solution not be to buy a light that does not need wiring to a battery? That would avoid the need to faff about with trying to run the light cable through the existing brake/shifter internal routing ports[/quote]'

It be even easier to just volcro the cables to the frame
I already have the lights that have external batteries, can run both lights off the one battery and can easily swap out battery mid ride if runs out of juice without the permanent drag of dynmano

joe_totale-2

arlowood wrote:

This from Wiggle is all you need

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/x-tools-essent ... lLEALw_wcB

Have had a set and used it for several bike builds. Works fine - no need to spend £150 on a torque set.

Likewise, the X Tools torque wrench has done me well. Only issue I've had with it is that it doesn't torque high enough when fitting a new SRAM crankset.

I'd say a torque wrench is essential no matter what material your bike is made from, people snapping bolts after over torquing them is very common.
Also agree with above, get some good quality hex wrenches such as these ones:

https://www.toolstation.com/wera-ball-e ... set/p71306

step83

Torque wrench, im with matt, a 5mm torque key and a 3/8 wrench cover most bases bike wise (decent socket bits too)

Sealant wise, depends on the fluid, some you use a syringe others just unscrew the valve and squirt

Bleed kit, a shimano one will be fine shimano tl-bt03 its inexpensive and easy to use lots of videos online about how too etc, a little spanner is needed to open the bleed nipples which isn't included, 7mm I think.

photonic69

Tools in my kit I use most often:

1. Wera hex wrenches as above
2. Bike stand - this should probably be a first consideration
3. 2x Quality small screwdrivers for setting derailleur limit screws
4. Torque wrench
5. Chain whip and cassette tool for removing/changing cassette
6. Cone spanners for wheel bearings
7. Grease gun thing
8. Very strong magnet for wheel ball bearings
9. Plastic tweezers to place ball bearings into hubs
10. Chain keeper for cleaning chain when rear wheel is removed

Plenty more things to buy as and when you need them

yonny

The X-Tools wrench is fine. It's what I use for my carbon stumpjumper.

Agree with the above, a stand is a god-send when working on the bike.

Alejandrosdog

hmmm i had a clear out recently and made a portable tool kit that suits my bikes (other may need different) heres what I ended up with and might give you ome ideas. (i know this is whats in here because i just looked through it as i was typing)

sliding t handle Hex keys (Beta tools)
long 6mm hex for specialized cranks (snap on)
sealey parralel punch (for bearings)
JIS number 2 screwdriver for limit screws etc VESSEL
3rd hand / cable puller
knipex diaganol cutters, pliers, 6inch pliers wrench(instead of an adjustable) and needlenose pliers
wera multicolour torx keys
oldschool park cable cutters must be 20 years old at least now
chain checker
masterlink pliers
wera 1/4 inch ratchet with adapter for bits
park small torque wrench this does everything for me, bars seatposts and also crank pinch bolts re Cassettes, the actual required value is 30 - 50nm so quite tight if youre using a standard 3/8 wratchet so i dont bother with a bigger Torque wrench though i have one in the workshop
scissors
small screwdriver for poking stuff like jockey wheels etc
feeler gages i use them to ensure the bottom bracket is in fully and also for setting a smidge of toe in on rim brakes
wheels bb press
park pick set
leatherman
steel core tyre leavers
park disk straightener
chain whip
bottle opener
rule with cotterpin and bearing gauge (rarely used in the last few years)
vernier caliper
park cable threading kit.
circlip pliers, spanner for chainring bolts, small flush cutting snips (mostly used for cutting zipties flush and number boards etc)
BOTTLE OPENER
set of facom metric mini spanners useful for allsorts 7mm to 17mm
wera 3/8 socket set and bits (hex and torx)
hanger alignment gauge
soft hammer
various hex and torx screwdrivers
zip ties, disposable gloves
and a bag containing 3/8 shiman bottom bracket, sockets aero spoke holders, spoke keys, 3/8 cassette tool shimano and also campag, crankbolt remover, tape measure, black insulation tape, thread gauge, valve core remover, various valve extenders, some ptfe tape, small tub of cable end crimps, small bag with some spare bolts and spare hangers for each bike. some brake and shift cable outers and 2 each of brake and gear inners. the little turner for shimano crank preload. Shimano brake bleed kit.

This box plus a tub of spares and lubes a wash bucket and a stand come eerywhere with me LOL but then i travel quite a bit and need to be self sufficient.

The rest of the kit is in the workshop

HAPPY SHOPPING!

REally good value hand tools include the sealey stuff and actually HALFORDS professional range. There always seems to be a sale on and they have a lifetime guarantee. one of those big sets will have some stuff you might never need but its buy once use for life.

expensive but good handtools knipex, wera beta facom. Parktool make ok kit but expensive. i wouldnt buy park tool for general hand or shop tools because theres much better available for less money. The bike specific stuff is good though.

Matthewfalle

double props from crib for sealey draper and halfords pro.

Matthewfalle

remember JIS screwdrivers in the three sizes you need if you are working on Shimano - saves chewing things up.

Alejandrosdog

Matthewfalle wrote:

remember JIS screwdrivers in the three sizes you need if you are working on Shimano - saves chewing things up.

3 sizes????? Doh I only ever use the number 2

Matthewfalle

1, 2 and stubby.

#invaluable
#PRO

Alejandrosdog

ive never found the need for a stubby JIS screwdriver, but this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vessel-900-Meg ... B000TGF8YI is invaluable for gear adjustment

#nomoreknackeredscrews
#jis
#pro
#feelsoddlysatisfyingtouse

Matthewfalle

i bought mine off amazon - i'll dig out the link in a bit.

i think i paid £20 of TDV's money for them. they were recommended by a friend who does loads of work on his old Japanese motorbike: they aren't snap on but he's never had a problem with them and neither have i.

agree completely with your hashtags

#alessandro'#s
#boonenusesJIS
#belikeboonen
#PRO
#nicetoolinyourhand

shawkbunerwp

4xsama said:

I'm in Aus and cost is around $45-50. Next best is a BBB/Park Tool which starts at about $140 AUD so the X Tools isn't bad value. You could use a bar type https://www.wiggle.com.au/topeak-combo-torq-wrench/ (which I am really tempted to get) . The thing which worries me a bit about the X Tool (and other wrench styl etools) is the calibration. The Topeak one @ $27.75 AUD looks a lot simpler and less likely to loose its calibration.

I think you should be checking out these lists of best wrenches and hopefully you'll find the best pick https://budgetreviews.net/wrenches/

stn5

Matthewfalle said:

remember JIS screwdrivers in the three sizes you need if you are working on Shimano - saves chewing things up.

I might be mistaken but I think the new R7000/R8000 derailleurs both use 2 or 2.5mm allen keys instead of JIS heads now so may not be required.