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Internal cabling with multi port cover

andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
edited April 2019 in Workshop
Hi all.
I've recently purchased Mason Bokeh with Ultegra 8020, hydraulic disc with internal cabling.
Where the cabling enters/exits there are little ports that hep seal the holes in the frame.

I am wanting to internally run some additional cabling for the Hope lighting system I have.

I could look to try and widen the existing port plug to allow the additional cabling to fit through or I could look to replace the ports for ones with wider holes already in them.

If I look to replace the ports themselves this would mean either disconnecting the brake/gear hose/cable from both ends (hoods and discs &/ or rear mec) or would it be better to disconnect from the hoods and pull the cables all the way back replace the ports and then rethread the cables.

Which option would be the best/easiest option?
Drill the hole bigger
Replace port and disconnect both ends where needed but leave cable in stitue or
Replace port disconnecting cable one end (which be easiest hoods or opposite end?) and pull cable through and rethread??

The cable/bike itself is only a month old if that so pretty much as new so cables don't need replacing persay and it all runs smoothly, if was rethreading cable, would it be worth upgrading to say Jag wire or similar? Or just reuse current?
Sorry for long post and any advice much appreciated.
Thanks Andy

Posts

  • rafletcherrafletcher Posts: 1,235
    I'm confused. Hydraulic brakes and cables??
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    rafletcher wrote:
    I'm confused. Hydraulic brakes and cables??

    Hydraulic brakes and gear cables he means.
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Replace the ports for ones with bigger holes if theyre available. it will be less of a bodge job.

    Replace the gear cables? you might need to if they wont thread back through so try and see

    Brakes will almost certainly need bleeding if you've disconnected them.

    none of these jobs are difficult just fiddly.
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Mason offer bikes fully built up with dynamo lighting, but do they sell port covers with the necessary holes?
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    Yes so to confirm the ports are for gear cable run as well as brake hoses

    I was hoping by bodging the holes bigger saves me disconnecting the cables

    Yes I could get the proper wider ports from Mason for £5 not sure if thats for a set or singular.
    Yes they offer a dynmano hub light package however as already had lights, I'm just wanting to run the cables, I forgot to have asked Mason to fit the other ports

    If I were to do it properly and disconnect the gear cables and hydraulic hoses, would it be best to do from both ends or just one end and pull the cables back?

    Also if bleeding the hoses rather than trying to clamp, which bleed kit would I need for the Ultgra 8020 brakes? I'm assuming the mineral oil is different to dot2, although seen ref to dot5? Are the kits better then just getting the oil and funnel and syringes separately?

    Thanks again
    Andy
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    andyh01 wrote:
    Yes so to confirm the ports are for gear cable run as well as brake hoses

    I was hoping by bodging the holes bigger saves me disconnecting the cables

    Yes I could get the proper wider ports from Mason for £5 not sure if thats for a set or singular.
    Yes they offer a dynmano hub light package however as already had lights, I'm just wanting to run the cables, I forgot to have asked Mason to fit the other ports

    If I were to do it properly and disconnect the gear cables and hydraulic hoses, would it be best to do from both ends or just one end and pull the cables back?

    Also if bleeding the hoses rather than trying to clamp, which bleed kit would I need for the Ultgra 8020 brakes? I'm assuming the mineral oil is different to dot2, although seen ref to dot5? Are the kits better then just getting the oil and funnel and syringes separately?

    Thanks again
    Andy

    no need to undo at both ends leave the bars and levers alone. Then you don’t need to redo the tape.

    You MUST use mineral oil not dot fluid on Shimano brakes or you will ruin them.

    Epic bleed solutions will sell you everything you need and in the future you will only need the mineral oil.
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    Thanks
    I was thinking to undo both ends save having to rethread cables.
    I was also hoping to be able to use zip ties to clamp hose then cut and re join with the inline connectors, rather than having to bleed and pull all cables ?

    I'll have a look at the EBS do I need the specific one for Ultegra 8020 is it 8070 disc brakes??
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    Bit of a faff bit managed to route the cable for the lights internally.

    In the end I drilled/grinded the existing port holes wide enough to fit the additional cables through

    I also managed to follow just gear cables so far didn't have to touch the brakes.

    Quite pleased with the results, the rear light now sits on the rack so not obscured by saddle bag or pannier.

    The front light is fixed to the bottom two stem bolts and the can adjust the pitch, however, ATM the light is too high I wouldn't be able to fit an out front Garmin mount on the top two stem bolts as planned. I also can't change the pitch of the rear left ght, hope it's not pointing straight at drivers eyes.

    The only other slight niggle is to be able to feed the cables back through I had to remove the outer soft foam padding, I'm assuming designed to stop cable rattling inside frame
    So have see how it goes...
  • AlejandrosdogAlejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    andyh01 wrote:
    Bit of a faff bit managed to route the cable for the lights internally.

    In the end I drilled/grinded the existing port holes wide enough to fit the additional cables through

    I also managed to follow just gear cables so far didn't have to touch the brakes.

    Quite pleased with the results, the rear light now sits on the rack so not obscured by saddle bag or pannier.

    The front light is fixed to the bottom two stem bolts and the can adjust the pitch, however, ATM the light is too high I wouldn't be able to fit an out front Garmin mount on the top two stem bolts as planned. I also can't change the pitch of the rear left ght, hope it's not pointing straight at drivers eyes.

    The only other slight niggle is to be able to feed the cables back through I had to remove the outer soft foam padding, I'm assuming designed to stop cable rattling inside frame
    So have see how it goes...

    Nice work!
  • andyh01andyh01 Posts: 571
    Thanks. I half wish I got the shop to do it but having spoken to them I don't think they would've done it much different. Like I sayain concern is whether cables will now rattle inside.
    Out of the other lighting systems I considered (dynmano, Exposure 6pack) I think for my needs this is my ideal set up.
    I need to index the gears better now as well I think once I've test ridden it.
    I need to post some pictures of the new bike too.

    Although I need to also look at the colourway and and finishing kit and touches but that's another story.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Wouldn't it be nice if the was a frame with hydraulic housing and writing intergrated into the frame. Adapters to connect to Shimano, hope, SRAM, and campag brakes should be possible as should plug in adpaters to connect to di2 and EPS. Intergrated dynamo lighting wiring should be easy.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
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