'Sticky' freehub

joey54321
joey54321 Posts: 1,297
edited March 2019 in Workshop
I have an issue where when I am off the bike and I spin the wheel then the pedals go round, this wouldn't be too much of an issue but it means when I freewheel the chain sometimes jumps off.

I order replace pawls and springs thinking this might be the issue, but it hasn't seemed to have fixed it. Any ideas? The bearings in the wheel and the freehub seem smooth and everything is clean, etc...

Comments

  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    They may just need a clean, I tend to use a light machine oil in mine but you may want to just check with whats recommended.
  • What wheels do you have?
    Got a place in the Pyrenees.
    Do bike and ski stuff.
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Check that the derraileur arm is free moving. Check when you replaced the free hub body you put washers back in the right place.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Thanks for the advice so far;

    So I have some wheels from JRA, not sure of the spec of the hubs though. Everything is pretty clean and as mentioned, the pawls and springs are brand new. Also, it's nothing related to the rear mech as I can feel the resistance in the freehub when spinning the wheel in my hand.
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    joey54321 wrote:
    Thanks for the advice so far;

    So I have some wheels from JRA, not sure of the spec of the hubs though. Everything is pretty clean and as mentioned, the pawls and springs are brand new. Also, it's nothing related to the rear mech as I can feel the resistance in the freehub when spinning the wheel in my hand.

    Ok but check the derraileur anyway.
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    joey54321 wrote:
    Thanks for the advice so far;

    So I have some wheels from JRA, not sure of the spec of the hubs though. Everything is pretty clean and as mentioned, the pawls and springs are brand new. Also, it's nothing related to the rear mech as I can feel the resistance in the freehub when spinning the wheel in my hand.

    Ok but check the derraileur anyway.

    And if there’s a preload adjuster on a top cap, wind it off a bit, turn till it just touches a then back off a smidge. Alternately take it to a local bike shop. One that has a clue, that one in 5 i reckon
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Er, the topcap on a bike is at the top of the steerer tube, what's that got to do with the freehub?
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    joey54321 wrote:
    Er, the topcap on a bike is at the top of the steerer tube, what's that got to do with the freehub?
    Sorry the preload adjuster on the hub, if it’s screw on. Though you can stick it for all I care you seem to be so knowledgable about everything.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    I'm literally asking for help and trying to provide answers to those trying to help me, which I appreciate.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    You don't know what to do. You either have a mechanics head and can work it out for yourself. You already know it's a freehub issue so take it apart. You might find its an issue with seals. You will have to work it out and then talk to jra to get spares if required.

    That or visit a shop. There is little we can do as we are not looking at your hub.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • darkhairedlord
    darkhairedlord Posts: 7,180
    I a formula free hub that did this. It wouldn't dismantle to access the bearings so I soaked it and flushed it through with jizer. Then I plugged the end a filled with 3in1. This flushed out the jizer. Spun it up a few times to get everything clear. Soaked in engine oil and spun a few times. Ran like seeing machine.
  • monkimark
    monkimark Posts: 1,535
    I had a similar issue with the wheel on my cx bike.

    Tapping the bearings down into the freehub helped but the issue kept returning, in the end I replaced the cartridge bearings and it seems to be ok - I guess they were just dodgy bearings and they weren't seating properly.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    I a formula free hub that did this. It wouldn't dismantle to access the bearings so I soaked it and flushed it through with jizer. Then I plugged the end a filled with 3in1. This flushed out the jizer. Spun it up a few times to get everything clear. Soaked in engine oil and spun a few times. Ran like seeing machine.

    Sounds like a good fix! I might give that ago if JRA can't point to anything.
    monkimark wrote:
    I had a similar issue with the wheel on my cx bike.

    Tapping the bearings down into the freehub helped but the issue kept returning, in the end I replaced the cartridge bearings and it seems to be ok - I guess they were just dodgy bearings and they weren't seating properly.

    Interesting, I'll check the bearing seating! Thanks for the suggestion.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    I spoke to JRA today (very helpful). They mentioned it's a Bitex hub and also suggested removing the pawls complete as this will help determine if the issue is with the pawls/spring or the freehub bearings, so i'll give that ago this evening.
  • step83
    step83 Posts: 4,170
    Form memory Bitex are quite easy I think its a pair of 5mm allen keys to release, the pawls should be on the freehub as you remove under a thick band, so you can easily check the action of them.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    5mm allen keys to get the end caps undone for bitex hubs. now we know its them. Seal drag can cause the problem you describe though.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    So one of the suggestions above seemed to work. I flooded the freehub bearings with WD-40 and now its purring along lovely! Not sure how long it'll last but problem solved so thanks for everyones help!
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    You don't know what to do. You either have a mechanics head and can work it out for yourself. You already know it's a freehub issue so take it apart. You might find its an issue with seals. You will have to work it out and then talk to jra to get spares if required.

    That or visit a shop. There is little we can do as we are not looking at your hub.

    Ive got a dt240 hub which was "sticky" I degreased everything and replaced bearings but i still get a surprising amount of drag when the freehub is in place, massively more so than any other hub I've used as a comparison. i replaced freehub bearings too.

    I've reassembled minus the springs and ratchetsand i can feel the drag. Ive inspected the seal, it appears to be seated properly, there doesnt appear to be any damage to it or the freehub body. In your experience should i STFU and live with it or is it worth changing the seal?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    joey54321 wrote:
    So one of the suggestions above seemed to work. I flooded the freehub bearings with WD-40 and now its purring along lovely! Not sure how long it'll last but problem solved so thanks for everyones help!

    The WD40 has probably flushed out the gunk which was gumming it up, but it's not a persistent lube. Suggest you follow that up with some light oil to keep it purring nicely.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Oh no WD-40. You have just runined the bearings. Change the freehub. Honestly this is why shops exists. Why it is you dont use them and inist on doing jobs your self. Put the WD-40 away it is not even a good penetrating fluid. it is not a lubricant. when bearings are worn they should be replaced they are not serviceable.

    As for the DT Swiss 240 hub well you have changed everything else. I have no idea if what your seeing is normal or not. I have not inspected the hub so it is not possible for me to advise. This is why I advise if you dont know visit a good shop. Nothing like a second opionion which should be given in person rather than on guess work.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Oh no WD-40. You have just runined the bearings. Change the freehub. Honestly this is why shops exists. Why it is you dont use them and inist on doing jobs your self. Put the WD-40 away it is not even a good penetrating fluid. it is not a lubricant. when bearings are worn they should be replaced they are not serviceable.

    The bearings are a month or two old.

    And I don't use shops as:

    1) They charge loads of money to often do the wrong thing
    2) it's very inconvenient to get to them, it would mean taking flexitime in order to drop off the wheel/pick the wheel up
    3) I would rather learn than pay someone else, if that means I need to replace some bearings sooner rather than later
    4) It has seemed to work and is holding up well so far. If the other option was to replace the bearings and putting WD40 on them has made it work for an extra few weeks and then I need to...replace the bearings. Well, then I am still ahead.
  • lesfirth
    lesfirth Posts: 1,382
    Well Joey, I can not disagree with anything you have said there.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Wd40 has made things worse. It disperses grease if it gets past the seals which it will.

    I am from the school of thought that only job worth doing is one that's done right. Bodging means you be doing the job again.

    It may make your hub quieter for now but the bearings will wear faster. Yes month old bearings in bitex hubs can go south as there is variable amounts of grease in them. They should be replaced. If you pick of the bearing seals and add grease you might extend bearing life but this is a temporary fix at best.
    You had a warranty claim with jra (sales of goods act) Now you have butchered the hub with wd40 you don't.

    Wd40 is not a lubricant. It's is a dispersant of grease masquerading as a penetrating fluid and plus gas does that job better.

    Only the worst shops would do what you have done, the good ones would have said ask jra for a replacement freehub or replace the freehub.

    I am blunt with people don't take it the wrong way.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Oh no WD-40. You have just runined the bearings. Change the freehub. Honestly this is why shops exists. Why it is you dont use them and inist on doing jobs your self. Put the WD-40 away it is not even a good penetrating fluid. it is not a lubricant. when bearings are worn they should be replaced they are not serviceable.

    As for the DT Swiss 240 hub well you have changed everything else. I have no idea if what your seeing is normal or not. I have not inspected the hub so it is not possible for me to advise. This is why I advise if you dont know visit a good shop. Nothing like a second opionion which should be given in person rather than on guess work.
    Therein lies the problem......

    There are no good bike shops in Newbury
  • joey54321
    joey54321 Posts: 1,297
    Wd40 has made things worse. It disperses grease if it gets past the seals which it will.

    I am from the school of thought that only job worth doing is one that's done right. Bodging means you be doing the job again.

    It may make your hub quieter for now but the bearings will wear faster. Yes month old bearings in bitex hubs can go south as there is variable amounts of grease in them. They should be replaced. If you pick of the bearing seals and add grease you might extend bearing life but this is a temporary fix at best.
    You had a warranty claim with jra (sales of goods act) Now you have butchered the hub with wd40 you don't.

    Wd40 is not a lubricant. It's is a dispersant of grease masquerading as a penetrating fluid and plus gas does that job better.

    Only the worst shops would do what you have done, the good ones would have said ask jra for a replacement freehub or replace the freehub.

    I am blunt with people don't take it the wrong way.

    I'm not taking it the wrong way, it's just that you are wrong.
  • Lagrange
    Lagrange Posts: 652
    OK so wd40 is a dispersant - so it must have some hydrocarbons in it. It is a degreaser but it is volatile - it evaporates - then it is gone. When it is gone it does nothing to the bearings.

    The problem seems to have been dirty grease clogging up the pawls which has been shifted with WD40 (a degreasant) the only other way to achieve that would be to use a degreasant. If you use a detergent then it would stay much longer than the WD 40 and would not evaporate.

    So he has done the right thing.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If the WD40 has degreased just the pawls then as long as they stay dry they may be OK for quite a while. If the WD40 has been blasted indiscriminately around the bearings and degreased those as well, even in the dry they won't last very long if you don't get some lube in there somehow. If they get wet they'll go south very quickly.

    I'd buy some replacements now.