Some beginners questions

dr nodr no Posts: 12
edited 29 March in MTB beginners
New to MTB for the last 6 months
Knee problems stopped me from running long distances so am trying biking

Giant Trance Advanced 1 2017 (FS) bough recently and Giant XTC Advanced 2+ 2017 (HT)
But questions are for the Trance

Riding mainly off road cycle ways
Recently tried the bike park in Chicksands

Want to pick peoples brains on a few things if I can please

1. Can I use Maxxis DHR II 27.5 x 2.5 WT on the 27mm internal width rim? They are designed for 30-35mm so will I lose some of its properties etc? I like the wider tyres I have on the plus MTB.

2. I have Nobby Nics. Is it worth the change to Maxxis when they due a change?

3. I’ve adjusted the Shimano XT 11 speed rear derailleur following all the guides but I cannot get it absolutely perfect. It always seems to catch in lower 2/3 sprockets and if I eliminate it it catches elsewhere. Or as it is currently stands, it takes two clicks to jump down to 10th speed

4. My rear break is so sharp. More so than my HT. I find I skid easily. Anything I can do to reduce how sharply they brake/grip?

5. How much can I expect to fit a Reverb stealth seatpost at LBS? I want to replace a Giant Contact SL Dropper

6. I prefer SRAM (HT) to Shimano (FS) p. Is it possible to upgrade in stages to save costs ? Or do I have go all in?

Many thanks for your help

Posts

  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,232
    Fit the reverb yourself. I’m a mechanical numpty and I managed it!! Only think you need is a half decent Stanley knife or plastic pipe cutter to trip the hose down with - everything else is in the retail pack.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    larkim wrote:
    Fit the reverb yourself. I’m a mechanical numpty and I managed it!! Only think you need is a half decent Stanley knife or plastic pipe cutter to trip the hose down with - everything else is in the retail pack.

    Unfortunately I bought mine off eBay. Removed from a new bike unused. So just the seatpost and cable. No bleeding accessories. Also the internal routing bit seems complicated LOL!
  • whyamiherewhyamihere Posts: 7,146
    1. It'll be fine
    2. It's worth changing just to get more experience of other tyres and work out what you prefer. I generally like Schwalbe tyres, but Maxxis are good too.
    3. Check that the mech hanger (the bit on the frame it bolts onto) is straight. There is a tool to do this, which I think is worth having because even brand new bikes/frames can come with slightly bent hangers. Otherwise, your LBS will be able to check it.
    4. Rather than reducing the bite of the brake, use it as an opportunity to improve your technique - This can help you learn to modulate your brakes better. The brake bite can be affected by the rotor size (larger rotors can give more bite due to the amount of leverage) and the pad material.
    5. As above, try it yourself. They're pretty easy, and you can get the tools to bleed them pretty cheaply.
    6. Assuming you're running 1x11 and want to stay with that, you can change just the shifter and mech at first, 11 speed cassettes are cross compatible. If you wanted to go to Sram 12 speed (Eagle), that would be a much bigger change.
  • larkimlarkim Posts: 2,232
    dr no wrote:
    larkim wrote:
    Fit the reverb yourself. I’m a mechanical numpty and I managed it!! Only think you need is a half decent Stanley knife or plastic pipe cutter to trip the hose down with - everything else is in the retail pack.

    Unfortunately I bought mine off eBay. Removed from a new bike unused. So just the seatpost and cable. No bleeding accessories. Also the internal routing bit seems complicated LOL!

    If you're careful you don't need the bleed kit, just keep the hose elevated.

    Routing should be easy for a reverb, just down the tube and up the specific seat post hole.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #3s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,376
    1. Yes.

    2. Both are good in the right compounds. It’s worth trying the Maxxis and deciding which suits your riding better.

    3. Also check the B screw is set correctly.

    4. That’s how it is supposed to be. Use more front than rear brake.

    5. Why do you want/need to change the dropper post?

    6. Brakes, gears or both?
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    edited 17 March
    JBA wrote:
    1. Yes.

    2. Both are good in the right compounds. It’s worth trying the Maxxis and deciding which suits your riding better.

    3. Also check the B screw is set correctly.

    4. That’s how it is supposed to be. Use more front than rear brake.

    5. Why do you want/need to change the dropper post?

    6. Brakes, gears or both?

    I’ve played with all the his and lows and cable tensions and B screws but still never perfect. So I can only assume the hangar might be off. Plan to have it looked at when eventually service it. But fairly useable ATM

    As for braking. I might just need to get used to it. Though I always understood we use the rear brake more often than front?

    Changing the seatpost because there is a little horizontal play that bothers me. So I thought might as well try the reverb. Being hydraulic at least it will be easy/softer to use.
    Just need to find a cheap 1x remote to go with it

    Point 6. I’m not too fussed but I find the SRAM gear on HT to be smoother.
  • robertpbrobertpb Posts: 1,812
    I presume the DHR II 27.5 x 2.5 WT that you are talking about is a 2.4 as there are only 2.4 and 2.6 WT's in the DHR II 27.5.

    Most of the braking is done by the front wheel, the rear adds to the braking and is useful for steering the bike in corners.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    robertpb wrote:
    I presume the DHR II 27.5 x 2.5 WT that you are talking about is a 2.4 as there are only 2.4 and 2.6 WT's in the DHR II 27.5.

    Most of the braking is done by the front wheel, the rear adds to the braking and is useful for steering the bike in corners.
    Yes 27.5x2.4 WT
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    I’m thinking I might give fitting the reverb myself. Which cable should I be getting if I want a new cable? Two choices

    https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/rockshox-h ... 36338436/p
    Or
    https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/rockshox-h ... 36338438/p
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,376
    If you buy a Reverb new it comes with the hose, actuator and bleed kit.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    JBA wrote:
    If you buy a Reverb new it comes with the hose, actuator and bleed kit.
    Nevermind me :oops:
    I bought one removed from a new bike and cable may be a bit short even though I have a small Trance. I would need the connectamajig to replace like for like.
    Just on the lookout for a cheap 1x remote now
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,376
    Ah, sorry. I missed your post about buying the Reverb off eBay.
    When you remove the Giant dropper use the cable to pull the Reverb hose through the frame.

    The hoses you have linked to are for different versions of the Reverb. The first link is for the newer Reverb B1 and the second link is for the Reverb A2.
    If your Reverb has 'Rockshox' printed in gold just below the post head it is a B model.

    p.s. Have sent you a pm re. your Giant dropper post.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    This morning I managed to fit the reverb seatpost.
    Turned out to be far easier than I expected once I had the correct bits and bob. 1x remote fitted as well. Much nicer to use than plungers.

    Saved £35 thanks to everyone’s encouragement to do it myself :D

    Next item on list is to replace the chain which is currently very close to the 0.75.
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,376
    Well done.
    If you can fit a Reverb changing a chain will be a piece of cake. :)
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    Next question
    Replacing XT shifter with an XTR
    Is there a way I can keep the cable in place and replace the shifter?
    I cannot see a way without taking the cable off completely

    Also I’m assuming there isn’t much to gain in upgrading to XTR derailleur?
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,376
    You can leave the outer cable in place but have to remove the inner.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    JBA wrote:
    You can leave the outer cable in place but have to remove the inner.

    Yes. Sorry I meant if there was a way to keep the inner cable as is and just change the shifter. Seems there isn’t.
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    So shifter upgraded, chained replaced.
    What next? A new cassette if I find one at a bargain price.

    BTW the shifter wire change appears to resolved my small derailleur adjustment issues.
    All running smoothly now
  • figbatfigbat Posts: 678
    What are you trying to achieve? A new cassette is a good idea if the current one is worn out, or if you are after different gearing, but not just for the sake of it.

    Best next thing is get out and ride it, then work out if anything is holding you back other than fitness or technique.
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • dr nodr no Posts: 12
    figbat wrote:
    What are you trying to achieve? A new cassette is a good idea if the current one is worn out, or if you are after different gearing, but not just for the sake of it.

    Best next thing is get out and ride it, then work out if anything is holding you back other than fitness or technique.

    I enjoy the riding but I also enjoy upgrading things whether it’s PCs or Home Cinema or Bikes. So I bought this Trance as a project for fiddling with as well. The chain was above 0.75 stretch, the seat had too much play, paintwork needed repairing etc.. all good fun

    But your message is true and it has been ringing in my head lately
    ‘Ride more, tinker less!’ :lol:
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