Which lightweight alloy wheelset

bluemoon81
bluemoon81 Posts: 71
edited March 2019 in Road buying advice
Hi,

Gettin a new road bike and upgrading the wheels I’m 65kg and looking for a nice set of light alloy rims.
I’ve seen a set of Vittoria Elusion Nero and the dt swiss dicut 1400 but worry the black coating will wear off.
Anyone any ideas?
Please don’t suggest Hunt as I know a lot of people with them and has issues with bearings and freehubs.

Cheers

Comments

  • donboogie
    donboogie Posts: 75
    Very different suggestions for you. The first is off the peg: Fulcrum Racing 3 C17 / Campy Zondas. Either are relatively inexpensive, lightish and durable. The other option would be to go custom and build the wheels you want; for example, Boyd Altamont Lite Ceramic Coated rims, White Industries hubs, CX Ray spokes.
  • mrb123
    mrb123 Posts: 4,612
    https://www.justridingalong.com/product ... hub-spokes

    These would do the job, or maybe some of the new Mavic Open Pro rims built up on some light hubs.
  • thegreatdivide
    thegreatdivide Posts: 5,803
    edited March 2019
    The treatment on the dt swiss dicut 1400 is meant to be reliable and a lot better than the Campagnolo/Fulcrum Mille stuff. Supposed to be on a par with Exalith. The DTs are on my hit list if I ever manage to kill my RSYS-SLRs. That might be a while yet.

    You're 65kg, you deffo don’t need hand built wheels.
  • schlepcycling
    schlepcycling Posts: 1,614
    How about the Cero AR30, I've no experience of them personally but plenty on the forums have them and really like them
    https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/wheels/clincher/cero-ar30-evo-wheelset-8779
    'Hello to Jason Isaacs'
  • pauly69
    pauly69 Posts: 101
    +1 for the dt swiss 1400's, I have been running a pair for nearly 2 years, and they are near as dammit unmarked. YMMV.
  • MisterMuncher
    MisterMuncher Posts: 1,302
    If you can get them cheap, HED Ardennes Black.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    handbuilt wheels are not just heavy 32 spokers you know.

    For ceramic coatings you either have the byd rims or the Aforce A33. A HED belgium in contrast brakes very well as do most alloy rims if you fit Kool stop slamon pads. Not sure if the ceramic coated brake track really solves a problem than is solved in another way.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Since the Cero's use hubs that are similar for bearing sizes to what Hunt use the OP will probably want to discount those too. Hub bearing life is directly related to the size of the bearing not just how well made the hub is (bearing seat alignment, machining tollerances, bearing grade, bearing seal tollerances e.t.c).
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Since the Cero's use hubs that are similar for bearing sizes to what Hunt use the OP will probably want to discount those too. Hub bearing life is directly related to the size of the bearing not just how well made the hub is (bearing seat alignment, machining tollerances, bearing grade, bearing seal tollerances e.t.c).

    As a matter of interest, what size bearing should one be looking for in a decent quality hub?
  • clubsport
    clubsport Posts: 51
    It was the hubs that finished off a set of my Cero's rather than the rim wearing down.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    That depends on the hub, the precision of the bearing seat ID, how well they are alligned. also the size tolerance of the bearing is key. the two need to match. Mismatch cause premature bearing failure. Misaligned bearing seats cause nasty loads on the bearings. so the more consistant the machining and the bearing the smaller the bearing can be.

    Hense bearings match the hubs. You should really use the bearings specified for that hub by the hub manufactuer rather than press in any old bearing. that does result in shorter life often.

    A good example here is the miche primato. The bearings are big 6001 but C3 clearance. fit a INA or SKF 6001 bearing which are high end bearings the bearing life will be shorter than the bearings Miche suggest because they are not the clearance size.

    6803 sized bearing seem to be the minimum for good bearing life if the bearings match the hubs and if the hub is properly made and one hub is the same as the next. That is to do with the load the bearing takes. Bearing life is inversely proportional to bearing diameter.

    SKF have bearing life calculators. Plugging in some number for 6802, 6803 and 6001 bearing the L(10)h life is 7260hrs, 9290 hrs and 1e6 hrs respectively. Obviously the latter number is not real but it give an idea.The bigger the OD of the bearing and the bigger the balls the lower the rolling resistance too. the L10h number is very simplified life span but the result is indicative of reality i.e ball and bearing size matters alot.


    Campagnolo Record hubs which are pretty good use a bearing with a ~26mm OD, dura ace hubs use a similar sized bearing but these are angular contact bearing which handle side loads very well. Royce hubs use 6001 (28x12x8) bearing which is why they last so well (miche Primato use the same size). 6902 (28x15x7mm) which is quite big is used buy a number of far eastern disc brake hubs and that a decent size. 6903 (30x17x7) is a big bearing used by DT swiss. however fulcrum use the same size bearing in the racing quattro and they are not known for stellar life so there more to bearing life than size alone.

    so the minimum bearing size for the rear hub is an OD of 26mm. That 6803 size and it take a very well made hub to make that size work well. Smaller bearings seem to wear out much faster and bearing life calculation bear that out. Bi

    Sadly 6001 bearing cannot be used for thru axle design which is why Q/R is better regardless of what we have been conned into thinking.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Thanks for the explanation. My best bike is thru axle so no chance of using a 6001 based hub.
  • othello
    othello Posts: 578
    I was about to start a similar thread on lightweight alloy wheels, but it makes sense to pool knowledge in one place.

    I am looking for a new set of lightweight alloy wheels for my daughter to race on. She currently has some Zonda's which have been excellent, but they are 4 years old now and I'm going to relegate them to training wheels (the brake track is getting a bit worn).

    My requirements are:

    * 20/24 spokes (or equivalent)
    * Reasonably stiff as they are race wheels. But my daughter is only 7 stone so doesn't need the same stiffness as an adult!
    * Below 1500g if possible
    * Max rim depth of 35mm (for youth racing)
    * £300-400 budget

    So far I have:

    CERO AR30 EVO
    £350, 1376g
    https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/wheels/ ... elset-8779

    HUNT RACE AERO
    £339, 1439g
    https://www.huntbikewheels.com/collecti ... eep-22wide

    NOVATEC JETFLY
    £350, 1435g
    https://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-wh ... 65367.html

    Any others worth considering?

    I had thought the HUNT wheels would be the ones to go for.But the CERO look really good...
    Blogging about junior road bikes http://junior-road-bikes.tumblr.com
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    TBH a new pair of Zonda's would do the job nicely.
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    othello wrote:
    they are 4 years old now and I'm going to relegate them to training wheels (the brake track is getting a bit worn).

    If they are worn then they are worn whether they are used for training or racing - either they are safe or they're not. If I had doubts I wouldn't let my daughter ride them!
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    Svetty wrote:
    othello wrote:
    they are 4 years old now and I'm going to relegate them to training wheels (the brake track is getting a bit worn).

    If they are worn then they are worn whether they are used for training or racing - either they are safe or they're not. If I had doubts I wouldn't let my daughter ride them!

    This
  • othello
    othello Posts: 578
    Svetty wrote:
    othello wrote:
    they are 4 years old now and I'm going to relegate them to training wheels (the brake track is getting a bit worn).

    If they are worn then they are worn whether they are used for training or racing - either they are safe or they're not. If I had doubts I wouldn't let my daughter ride them!

    Still safe and not below the wear limits, so don't worry. :D

    But as much as they have been fantastic wheels it is time for a new set.
    Blogging about junior road bikes http://junior-road-bikes.tumblr.com
  • othello
    othello Posts: 578
    Joe Totale wrote:
    TBH a new pair of Zonda's would do the job nicely.

    I did wonder about buying another set, as they have been fantastic. I have had a set myself and were faultless until I had a big crash and totalled them.

    But it feels like the easy option and I wondered what else was out there for similar money.
    Blogging about junior road bikes http://junior-road-bikes.tumblr.com
  • philbar72
    philbar72 Posts: 2,229
    I got a pair of the cero ar24's a few weeks ago. used them for a variety of things, long distance rides, hill training, winning sign sprints, etc etc.

    for the price they are frankly better than wheels that cost twice the money.

    I'm not a fan of the hunts, they have poor quality bearings and seals. 3 people I know have junked theirs (as well as me)... within 2 years of buying them
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    That depends on the hub, the precision of the bearing seat ID, how well they are alligned. also the size tolerance of the bearing is key. the two need to match. Mismatch cause premature bearing failure. Misaligned bearing seats cause nasty loads on the bearings. so the more consistant the machining and the bearing the smaller the bearing can be.

    Hense bearings match the hubs. You should really use the bearings specified for that hub by the hub manufactuer rather than press in any old bearing. that does result in shorter life often.

    A good example here is the miche primato. The bearings are big 6001 but C3 clearance. fit a INA or SKF 6001 bearing which are high end bearings the bearing life will be shorter than the bearings Miche suggest because they are not the clearance size.

    6803 sized bearing seem to be the minimum for good bearing life if the bearings match the hubs and if the hub is properly made and one hub is the same as the next. That is to do with the load the bearing takes. Bearing life is inversely proportional to bearing diameter.

    SKF have bearing life calculators. Plugging in some number for 6802, 6803 and 6001 bearing the L(10)h life is 7260hrs, 9290 hrs and 1e6 hrs respectively. Obviously the latter number is not real but it give an idea.The bigger the OD of the bearing and the bigger the balls the lower the rolling resistance too. the L10h number is very simplified life span but the result is indicative of reality i.e ball and bearing size matters alot.


    Campagnolo Record hubs which are pretty good use a bearing with a ~26mm OD, dura ace hubs use a similar sized bearing but these are angular contact bearing which handle side loads very well. Royce hubs use 6001 (28x12x8) bearing which is why they last so well (miche Primato use the same size). 6902 (28x15x7mm) which is quite big is used buy a number of far eastern disc brake hubs and that a decent size. 6903 (30x17x7) is a big bearing used by DT swiss. however fulcrum use the same size bearing in the racing quattro and they are not known for stellar life so there more to bearing life than size alone.

    so the minimum bearing size for the rear hub is an OD of 26mm. That 6803 size and it take a very well made hub to make that size work well. Smaller bearings seem to wear out much faster and bearing life calculation bear that out. Bi

    Sadly 6001 bearing cannot be used for thru axle design which is why Q/R is better regardless of what we have been conned into thinking.

    This is all right, especially the bit about it not being just about the bearings, quality issues aside some hubs are def more prone to rapid bearing failure. Zipp hubs the 188 in particular i have to change at least once a year and ive got some DA hubs that ive never touched in years and theyre without play or silly creaky noises.

    I used to think sealed bearing hubs were the way ahead for ease of maintenance and long hub life but Its not what im seeing. infact i got some campag hubs about 25 years ago that are still working like new.

    cheap cup and cone hubs on the other hand are not a maintenance free or long lived.