SRAM Red 22 chainset removal

pete2002
pete2002 Posts: 5
edited March 2019 in Workshop
I'd appreciate some help with what maybe is an obvious question, but I'll check!
I have a SRAM Red 22 chainset on a Cannondale Synapse and I want to remove the whole chainset / crank assembly to replace the BB30 bearings.

So, do I leave the "collar" retainer ring in place (that uses the 4 pin tool to screw it – clockwise to remove?) and screw the 10mm hex Allen bolt out anti-clockwise?
Does the whole driveside crank and chain rings come off the splines in one assembly leaving the splined shaft still attached to the non-driveside crank, so ‘slides’ through the BB30 shell?

Is the 10mm mm hex bolt at really really high torque?? Would some WD-40 spray down the hollow tube help to free it up?

Thanks
:D

Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    The collar acts as the self-extractor, so leave it in place and wind out the allen bolt inside - that should pull the crank arm and rings off as one piece. The non drive side arm should then pull out from the other side, with the bb axle attached. You might need a bit of extra leverage to free up the retainer bolt if you're removing it for the first time...
  • pete2002
    pete2002 Posts: 5
    Imposter wrote:
    The collar acts as the self-extractor, so leave it in place and wind out the allen bolt inside - that should pull the crank arm and rings off as one piece. The non drive side arm should then pull out from the other side, with the bb axle attached. You might need a bit of extra leverage to free up the retainer bolt if you're removing it for the first time...

    OK, thanks for your help. :D
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    Video here if you need any further reassurance

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzaWF9ydar8
  • pete2002
    pete2002 Posts: 5
    arlowood wrote:
    Video here if you need any further reassurance

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzaWF9ydar8

    Brilliant, thanks for your help.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,346
    just to add...

    if it's the type of sram crank with the preload adjuster, once you remove it, unlock the adjuster and turn it to minimum preload

    when refitting with new bearings and shields, adjust for correct preload and lock it, see...

    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/file ... kets_0.pdf

    the threads will have been well greased, torque is high but i've never had any issue with red cranks seizing, don't put wd40 on them, btw unless something changed it's an 8mm hex
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • pete2002
    pete2002 Posts: 5
    sungod wrote:
    just to add...

    if it's the type of sram crank with the preload adjuster, once you remove it, unlock the adjuster and turn it to minimum preload

    when refitting with new bearings and shields, adjust for correct preload and lock it, see...

    https://www.sram.com/sites/default/file ... kets_0.pdf

    the threads will have been well greased, torque is high but i've never had any issue with red cranks seizing, don't put wd40 on them, btw unless something changed it's an 8mm hex

    ok, thanks.

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