Scott Genius LT shifting issues , Internal Routing??

markymark113

I have a 170mm travel Genius 700 running Sram XO 1X
I was having issues with shifting so got LBS to change inner and outer cable as I didn’t fancy fishing the outer through the frame. They commented that they wondered if the rear mech had taken a whack affecting the mech pivot. Shifting got steadily worse again and would be appalling half way through visits to trail centres. I then changed the rear mech.
Visited Bike Park Wales this weekend , the bigger the drops and jumps the worse the shifting got! Ultimately after some hard riding on an advanced red the shifting jammed all together.
I am now wondering if there is an issue with the internal routing. I purchased the bike 6 months old so have no idea if the cabling was changed before my ownership.
Any ideas???
Has anyone else had a similar issue?
Thanks in advance.

larkim

Internal routing isn’t hard to work with - get hold of a long piece of the inner plastic tubing from the inside of a cable outer (if that makes sense) and run that up the old cable from the back towards the front before drawing the cable out - tape that in place and you have a guaranteed route to get it from front to back.

The Canyon in our family came with two lengths of the inner which really help - takes all the hassle out of internal routing.

Not much help with your direct query though!

The Rookie

You need to look at it properly, it’s rare for the shifting to have an issue in the cable pull direction (to lower gears/bigger sprockets, but friction can seriously impact shifting when you’re relying on the mech spring to pull it through. So is it only in one direction or both? If it’s up shifting have you checked the shifter is actually releasing cable?

markymark113

The main issue is shifting to an easier gear although shifts the other way are slow. Yesterday I was pretty much stuck in 10t on the cassette , I could just about get the next gear if I really pushed the shifter very hard. It seems more than a coincidence that it happens when I have a less than smooth landing.
I have since removed the inner cable , it was clean and still had all the Teflon coating , the shifter is smooth as silk when the inner is removed from the outer , the outer is a high end jagwire.

billycool

markymark113 wrote:

The main issue is shifting to an easier gear although shifts the other way are slow. Yesterday I was pretty much stuck in 10t on the cassette , I could just about get the next gear if I really pushed the shifter very hard. It seems more than a coincidence that it happens when I have a less than smooth landing.
I have since removed the inner cable , it was clean and still had all the Teflon coating , the shifter is smooth as silk when the inner is removed from the outer , the outer is a high end jagwire.

Sounds like you need to work through a few options and you've already started.

If you've taken the shifter cable out, have a look at the rear mech. Try to push it in and out and see if it has the full range of gear movement (the same process when you fit a new rear mech and set your limit screws). It might be easier to take the chain off.

As The Rookie says, it's unusual to have issues shifting both ways if it's a sticky cable. As you've already checked that, it could be something simply blocking the mech movement.

It's not unusual to have some foreign object floating around in the rear mech and all that BPW bouncing up and down is moving it around so it jams up more/less often. The test above will tell you if the mech is being restricted. You may need to invert the bike to have a good look.

You may have been really unlucky and damaged your mech again.

JBA

Get your LBS to check the rear derailleur and hangar alignments. This is something they should have done already if they suspected the mech had taken a knock, but who knows?

I was wondering if it could be a kink or trap in the outer but now you have said you were able to remove the inner that seems to be ruled out.

Other things to do are check the cable inner is correctly routed through the cable guide and clamp at the mech, make sure any end caps on the outer are properly seated and, as Billycool says, check that the mech moves as expected if you disconnect it and move it by hand.