#^&!$%! Hunt 4 seasons / Schwalbe G one tubeless nightmare

-kk-

So I received a set of hunts 4 season discs with G Ones on them and based on prior conversation with the builder had understood that it will come installed as tubeless. Upon arrival and after a few rides, I first realised there was no sealant in there and finally clicked that there was a tube inside.

Anyway, removed the tube, stans valve and sealant in and pumped it back up. Tyres inflated fine but I noticed quite a few holes where the sealant came through on both sets of tyre. This settled down after awhile but after a few days in now, I am still getting sealant coming through the valve (its an asymmetrical rim so one side will always be lower... on the outside anyway) and the tyres basically goes flat overnight.

I am not sure what else to do. Certainly did not expect tyres to give me such headaches! Any help / ideas would be greatly appreciated.

lemonenema

do you mean theres sealant coming out of the valve itself or from the hole around the valve? If its from the hole around the valve then take the valve out of the rim, wrap some PTFE / plumbers tape around it and reinstall, Its very useful stuff.

Alejandrosdog

go back to tubes and stop messing about with marketing claims.

Matthewfalle

Alejandrosdog wrote:

go back to tubes and stop messing about with marketing claims.

this. or send them back and get a refund.

cycleclinic

dont give up or send them back. I dont think Hunt are doing tubeless setup any more or they are trying to move aways from it so they told me. anyway. If the leak is from the sidewall then it is possible you dont have the tubeless version of the tyres in which case you need to check what you actually bought to see if there is a claim. The leak from the valve could be the result of a tear in the tape as you inserted the valve. Plumber tape might fix that. Worth a go. If not retape and do it right this time.

The above comments are simply not helpful. If you want to stick to inner tubes that fine but its not fine to tell other trying to set up tubeless they are wasting there time. That is not the case. If I was not of tubeless last week wI would have had to fix 5 punctures at the road side (one in my MTB and 4 in some conti tubeless tyres which are at the end of there life). As it it was I had to fix none as the sealant did it.

Matthewfalle

unfortunately hunts are not as good as their marketing or price tag alludes to - the MFs would send them back and buy something worth the price tag.

Matthewfalle

thecycleclinic wrote:

dont give up or send them back. I dont think Hunt are doing tubeless setup any more or they are trying to move aways from it so they told me. anyway. If the leak is from the sidewall then it is possible you dont have the tubeless version of the tyres in which case you need to check what you actually bought to see if there is a claim. The leak from the valve could be the result of a tear in the tape as you inserted the valve. Plumber tape might fix that. Worth a go. If not retape and do it right this time.

The above comments are simply not helpful. If you want to stick to inner tubes that fine but its not fine to tell other trying to set up tubeless they are wasting there time. That is not the case. If I was not of tubeless last week wI would have had to fix 5 punctures at the road side (one in my MTB and 4 in some conti tubeless tyres which are at the end of there life). As it it was I had to fix none as the sealant did it.

Malc - the mainstay of your business is selling tubeless wheels, n'est ce pas? MF4 thinks he has am memory of this being discussed before.

cycleclinic

I was not commenting on the wheels as such but the tubeless issue has a cause that is probably not wheel related. I think it's the tyre not being the Tubeless version and the valve installation. Between the two there an air loss. The wheel is irrelevant if my educated guess is right.

Hense the op needs to check what was actually bought. The schwalbe g one tubeless easy tyres of just g one's.

-kk-

Thanks for the comments. Both the wheels and tyre sets are of the tubeless variety. The sealant is coming out from where the rim and valve meets, not from the valve itself. I will try sealing around the valve, thanks for that suggestion. Its holding up better now after this morning's ride and seems to have calmed down now. Will see how we get on.

As for returning the wheels / marketing claims etc. This is my first go at tubeless and its certain not as smooth as Id like. Returning is not a cheap option as I picked them up in the UK last month but I dont live there so for better or worse Im committed now, for this set of tyres anyway.

Interesting about cycleclinic's comments re Hunt not doing tubeless anymore, I thought they were moving in that direction, not away!

964cup

You might try a different tyre. I found that G-Ones don't hold pressure well when set up tubeless. Panasonic Gravel Kings on the same wheelset work much better. Tubeless tyres all lose air eventually; some do so faster than others. Some also have relatively porous sidewalls and must be used with a Stans-type sealant that will lay down a latex coating inside the tyre. You may also find that a change of sealant helps with your valve issue. Something with additional fibres/particles in it might help to seal your valve hole; so might an additional wrap of tubeless tape or a change of valve. On this point, I find that Schwalbe's round-headed tubeless valves don't seal well on asymmetric rims, and you need something with a bigger (rectangular) head like BBB to get a good seal.

haydenm

As others have said, try and seal around the valve a bit better, a bit of trial and error and you'll have it sorted in no time. The tubeless setup on my gravel bike to a week or two to settle down and seal 100%. I don't think I'd ever run tubes on a gravel bike now but then I ride lots of rough forest roads and mtb stuff where pinch flats are a major issue

joe_totale-2

-kk- wrote:

Thanks for the comments. Both the wheels and tyre sets are of the tubeless variety. The sealant is coming out from where the rim and valve meets, not from the valve itself. I will try sealing around the valve, thanks for that suggestion. Its holding up better now after this morning's ride and seems to have calmed down now. Will see how we get on.

As for returning the wheels / marketing claims etc. This is my first go at tubeless and its certain not as smooth as Id like. Returning is not a cheap option as I picked them up in the UK last month but I dont live there so for better or worse Im committed now, for this set of tyres anyway.

Interesting about cycleclinic's comments re Hunt not doing tubeless anymore, I thought they were moving in that direction, not away!

To me it sounds like you should reapply the rim tape and make sure that the hole you punch through for the valve is as small and clean as possible.

term1te

I built up an asymmetric DT Swiss RR440 rim into a rear wheel, with the intention of going tubeless. I had exactly the same problem with the tyre deflating overnight. In the end I figured it was due to the internal shape of the asymmetric rim. One side is much steeper than the other and the rim tape needs to make a much sharper bend onto only a very small 'ledge' to make the seal. Off the top of my head I can't remember the tape widths, but the width recommended for the rim just wouldn't seal, so I got the next width up and was very careful in fitting it to the narrower side of the rim, and it finally sealed. Also, because the valve hole is set closer to one of the internal walls on the asymmetric rim, the original valve I used didn't seem to seal that well. Changed to a cheap eBay one with a cone shaped 'flange' (?) and it sealed OK. Very happy with the setup now.

cycleclinic

they are tyring to move aways from doing tubeless setups in house for customers not from supplying tubeless wheels. They of course may change there mind or never go through it. There problem is warehouse space. They can have space for tyres and tyre fitting or space for more wheels. Tyres may not get them returning customers for more tyres so it probably does not add much value unless they find it helps sell the wheels. I suspect they will find it hard to give up doing tubeless setups. They might have partner stores where the wheels are delivered and set up there, a bit like click and collect. That is far more likely. damm I am full of good ideas. I should charge for these.

Rim tape width is always 2-5 mm wider than the internal width of the rim, it depends only on the depths of the central channel. for the RR440 20mm wide tape is really needed. Asymmetric rims seal up just fine. There is no issue with asymmetric rims. Setup far too many now and I never seem to get any leaks.

The size of the hole made in the tape is crucial and Joe said. That why plummer tape or retaping would work. Retaping is obviously better. It could also be the vlave is not seated properly. Alsays make a small fine hole with a sharp point and using the CLOSED valve push it through the tape. The hole is then valve sized. This of course does not apply to the OP as the hole in the tape was premade by Hunt.

Tap in place with a rubber mallet and it will be seated This is possibly what the OP has not done. do the collar up and there will be no leak. It works every time. Thin tapes though tear more easily and more care needs to be taken. Stans, Tesa, Schwalbe tape are all thick enough and dont seem to tear when I use the method above.

Tubeless wows are mostly user error. Assumptions cause leaks. Lack of experience causes leaks. Its a learning curve.

Alejandrosdog

Pretty straightforward these tubeless wheels Lolol

I can sort of understand going bigger, I don’t like but can appreciate how people might want discs but for the life of me I don’t understand why people invite the naus of tubeless into their lives

Matthewfalle

#theybelievedthehype

-kk-

OK so dumb question - I thought these rims are tubeless ready which meant (I thought) no tape needed? Is that not correct? I did have a look at the bare rim and didnt notice any tape but its a flat/ solid surface with the only hole being the one for the valve. Ive dropped in a stans valve with conical rubber end.

Update after a few days, front tyre has now settled down but back tyre still losing some air. I think its improving a little now that Ive spun the wheel around at different angles. Will see how it fares tomorrow morning before the ride.

Thank you all for your input - stay tuned!

Alejandrosdog

Matthewfalle wrote:

#theybelievedthehype

#firstworldproblems

haydenm

Alejandrosdog wrote:

Pretty straightforward these tubeless wheels Lolol

I can sort of understand going bigger, I don’t like but can appreciate how people might want discs but for the life of me I don’t understand why people invite the naus of tubeless into their lives

Ever ridden off road with tubes on a gravel/cx bike? Mountain bikers have been doing it for years, it's easy when you know how. I spent a very long time last week describing how to centre disc brakes to a mate of mine, very very basic bike maintenance stuff but road is so far behind it's quite a big learning curve

I personally don't bother with it on road though, not worth it for the minimal punctures I get

stueys

Matthewfalle wrote:

#theybelievedthehype

#hypeisreallearnhowtouseit