hope updated disc rotors compatibility with shimano brakes

swod1

Does any one have the updated hope disc rotors and use them with shimano disc brakes?

I'm thinking of getting some for my bike and have read some reviews about the caliper still fouling the rivet on the disc.

Is that still a fault with them?

Bought some cheapo ones off ebay and they've started to rust after riding in the recent cold weather, dam road salt. I do clean my bike that's not the fault.

Any other options to consider?

billycool

I've got some Clarks on both bikes and find them pretty good for the money:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-CFR-0 ... ctupt=true

Can't comment on the Hope's compatability.

swod1

Cheers I’ll have a look at those.

Not happy with brake performance but these discs off eBay were only 7 quid each.

billycool

swod1 wrote:

Cheers I’ll have a look at those.

Not happy with brake performance but these discs off eBay were only 7 quid each.

I tried buying cheap once and failed miserably.

I find the Clarks not bad at all for the money. I run 180m F and 160mm R on both bikes. SLX on my HT and XT 8000 on my FS. I also run their sintered pads which work well for me:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarks-VRX852C ... ks+VRX852C

I like brakes that work!

swod1

Well I'm using XT m785 brakes with 180m front and 160m rear on my bird zero hardtail.

I've got race matrix pads in the front but rear got semi metallic, the front is actually fine but rear is awful pads just easily glaze cant seem to get the pads to bed to the disc. Disc seems to be overly shiny?

I was going to fit sintered in the rear in case its owt coming off the chain but they do make some noise though.

What are brake discs made out of stainless or just ordinary steel?

billycool

swod1 wrote:

Well I'm using XT m785 brakes with 180m front and 160m rear on my bird zero hardtail.

I've got race matrix pads in the front but rear got semi metallic, the front is actually fine but rear is awful pads just easily glaze cant seem to get the pads to bed to the disc. Disc seems to be overly shiny?

I was going to fit sintered in the rear in case its owt coming off the chain but they do make some noise though.

What are brake discs made out of stainless or just ordinary steel?

The Clarks rotors are "420CR full stainless steel construction".

As for pads - I've always run sintered both ends with no drama. If you have cheap rotors then the quality of the metal might be different?

I used to have the XT M785 but sold them when I got the M8000's as part of a deal. Really liked the M785's. Took a while to get the 8000's how I liked them but now they are spot on.

swod1

BillyCool wrote:

The Clarks rotors are "420CR full stainless steel construction".

As for pads - I've always run sintered both ends with no drama. If you have cheap rotors then the quality of the metal might be different?

I used to have the XT M785 but sold them when I got the M8000's as part of a deal. Really liked the M785's. Took a while to get the 8000's how I liked them but now they are spot on.

Oh good, I'll have a look around at what's reasonably priced, hopes are nice and the quality is there but expensive to try out if the rivets are going to foul the brakes.

I think these rotors I bought off ebay are just plate steel, I've also bought some ti rotor bolts the standard ones started to look a bit shti colour comes off them too easily.

thistle_

swod1 wrote:

Does any one have the updated hope disc rotors and use them with shimano disc brakes?

I have no problems with the old Hope rotors on my MTB and pretty sure I have Shimano brakes (not sure what model). The rotors are the 203mm ones, maybe the rivets are further from the caliper?

billycool

swod1 wrote:

BillyCool wrote:

The Clarks rotors are "420CR full stainless steel construction".

As for pads - I've always run sintered both ends with no drama. If you have cheap rotors then the quality of the metal might be different?

I used to have the XT M785 but sold them when I got the M8000's as part of a deal. Really liked the M785's. Took a while to get the 8000's how I liked them but now they are spot on.

Oh good, I'll have a look around at what's reasonably priced, hopes are nice and the quality is there but expensive to try out if the rivets are going to foul the brakes.

I think these rotors I bought off ebay are just plate steel, I've also bought some ti rotor bolts the standard ones started to look a bit shti colour comes off them too easily.

I've got some Ti bits on my bike as well. Just be careful not to over tighten them as they make short work of alu hubs etc.

croptonboy

BillyCool wrote:

I've got some Clarks on both bikes and find them pretty good for the money:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-CFR-0 ... ctupt=true

Can't comment on the Hope's compatability.

They're a similar price point to the Shimano SLX rotors. You'd recommend the Clarks ones then?

billycool

Croptonboy wrote:

BillyCool wrote:

I've got some Clarks on both bikes and find them pretty good for the money:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-CFR-0 ... ctupt=true

Can't comment on the Hope's compatability.

They're a similar price point to the Shimano SLX rotors. You'd recommend the Clarks ones then?

Having used both, they are pretty much the same.

The only reason why I went for the Clarks was because I wanted floating rotors without paying Hope prices. Theoretically you get better heat dissapation and you get them in different colours. It's partly a vanity thing and they seem to work perfectly well.

SLX are solid rotors and not as pretty but just as good at stopping you.

swod1

looking around I think I'm going to buy some of the uberbike ones these are more reasonably priced.

croptonboy

BillyCool wrote:

Having used both, they are pretty much the same.

The only reason why I went for the Clarks was because I wanted floating rotors without paying Hope prices. Theoretically you get better heat dissapation and you get them in different colours. It's partly a vanity thing and they seem to work perfectly well.

SLX are solid rotors and not as pretty but just as good at stopping you.

Good to hear. It's also a vanity thing for me, the bike has a red trim theme and these rotors would compliment that, without the need to pay Hope money

billycool

Croptonboy wrote:

BillyCool wrote:

Having used both, they are pretty much the same.

The only reason why I went for the Clarks was because I wanted floating rotors without paying Hope prices. Theoretically you get better heat dissapation and you get them in different colours. It's partly a vanity thing and they seem to work perfectly well.

SLX are solid rotors and not as pretty but just as good at stopping you.

Good to hear. It's also a vanity thing for me, the bike has a red trim theme and these rotors would compliment that, without the need to pay Hope money

Give it a go - you won't break the bank either way! Let us know how you get on.

The Rookie

Croptonboy wrote:

Theoretically you get better heat dissapation

Oops, no, theoretically (and in reality) you get worse heat dissipation as the conduction of heat to the hub is reduced by the rivets. Physics can be a b!tch sometimes!

croptonboy

But the aluminium centre should dissapate the heat better than steel

billycool

The Rookie wrote:

Croptonboy wrote:

Theoretically you get better heat dissapation

Oops, no, theoretically (and in reality) you get worse heat dissipation as the conduction of heat to the hub is reduced by the rivets. Physics can be a b!tch sometimes!

I don't do physics! :?

Croptonboy wrote:

But the aluminium centre should dissapate the heat better than steel

That was my understanding. It's in the sale blurb, so it must be true!

cycleclinic

Trp rotors work well but in general use Shimano rotor with Shimano brakes. Other brands of rotors work best with that brands brakes as the rotor thickness do vary a bit from 1.6mn to 2.0mm hope rotors are 0.2mm narrower than Shimano rotors.

The Rookie

Croptonboy wrote:

But the aluminium centre should dissapate the heat better than steel

It would, if you used fixed rivets to the steel brake track then it would work, but the floaters with the minimal contact rivets don’t transfer enough heat. That’s why I used alloy centred non floating.

swod1

Well going back to this I got a 203mm hope disc for a good price and fitted it at the weekend. The updated design still catches on the shimano caliper, filled off about 2mm on the bottom of caliper mount and it works great now.

Just waiting on a new 180mm brake adapter for the rear to fit a 180mm hope disc I've got for the rear too.

yonny

swod1 wrote:

Well going back to this I got a 203mm hope disc for a good price and fitted it at the weekend. The updated design still catches on the shimano caliper, filled off about 2mm on the bottom of caliper mount and it works great now.

Just waiting on a new 180mm brake adapter for the rear to fit a 180mm hope disc I've got for the rear too.

Yeah I got the 203 mm Hope rotors and they catch on my Code caliper. Planning to do the same as you. Can I ask how you did it? File? Angle grinder?

swod1

yonny wrote:

Yeah I got the 203 mm Hope rotors and they catch on my Code caliper. Planning to do the same as you. Can I ask how you did it? File? Angle grinder?

I just took a course metal file and carefully filled a bit off and checked the clearance.

A couple of millimetre should be enough to avoid it catching.

You don't want to take too much off as you will weaken the caliper mounting hole etc.

JBA

Filing parts of your bike or caliper away to make a rotor fit seems a bit drastic.
Just buy rotors that fit and leave the bike as it was designed.

thistle_

yonny wrote:

Yeah I got the 203 mm Hope rotors and they catch on my Code caliper. Planning to do the same as you. Can I ask how you did it? File? Angle grinder?

Is the mount/adapter with your caliper for 203 mm or 200 mm rotors?
IIRC Avid/SRAM brakes have slightly different sized rotors as standard:
https://www.sram.com/avid/products/code
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... -RT70.html

swod1

thistle (MBNW) wrote:

yonny wrote:

Yeah I got the 203 mm Hope rotors and they catch on my Code caliper. Planning to do the same as you. Can I ask how you did it? File? Angle grinder?

Is the mount/adapter with your caliper for 203 mm or 200 mm rotors?
IIRC Avid/SRAM brakes have slightly different sized rotors as standard:
https://www.sram.com/avid/products/code
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/ ... -RT70.html

Good point there as most Sram brakes I've seen run 200mm rotors.

You could try some washers under the mounting bolts to raise the caliper a little without doing anything to the caliper?

yonny

swod1 wrote:

I just took a course metal file and carefully filled a bit off and checked the clearance.

A couple of millimetre should be enough to avoid it catching.

Cheers mate. I can see it just needs a mm or 2. I almost got away with just un-centering the pads but my OCD got the better of me, no good.

JBA wrote:

Filing parts of your bike or caliper away to make a rotor fit seems a bit drastic.
Just buy rotors that fit and leave the bike as it was designed.

Normally I'd agree with you mate but my bike is heavily modded and it's not the first time I've had to get creative.

thistle (MBNW) wrote:

Is the mount/adapter with your caliper for 203 mm or 200 mm rotors?

203 bud.

swod1

Don't really see what the issue is with just modifying the brake caliper. Still works great massive power now on my front brake with new 203 disc and race matrix pads.

Yonny - try some washers first on your mounting bolts before doing anything else.

yonny

swod1 wrote:

Yonny - try some washers first on your mounting bolts before doing anything else.

What's your thinking here bud?

The rivets hit the lower part of the caliper (the mounts that sit on to the mount adaptor). I don't want to elevate the caliper with washers because that will reduce the contact area between pad and rotor (it'd be kind of like using a 200 rotor with a 203 adaptor). Each mm at the top end of the rotor is worth big bucks in terms of power, I want to use every single mm of the intended contact area. Hence, the width of the caliper mount needs to be reduced imo, not the height.

Or am I misunderstanding?

swod1

Ah I thought it was rubbing inside the top of the caliper why I suggested to use some washers on the bolts.

I thought hope would have checked this if they are really wanting the discs to be compatible with other brakes the rivets are still too close in my opinion.

I would have run the xtr shimano rotors if they were available in 6 bolt and not only in centrelock.

yonny

swod1 wrote:

I thought hope would have checked this if they are really wanting the discs to be compatible with other brakes the rivets are still too close in my opinion.

Agree!