Should I consider replacing this brake cable?

bompington
bompington Posts: 7,674
edited February 2019 in Workshop
47158146031_19b8c65d6b_o_d.jpg
... Sure I can make it last a bit longer, superglue or duct tape?

Comments

  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Given that a new inner will cost peanuts why not....
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    Looks fine to me. Loads of life in those brake blocks as well.
    Ben

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  • manoirdelourde
    manoirdelourde Posts: 133
    Just weave the strands together and apply a bit of electrical tape . . .
    Got a place in the Pyrenees.
    Do bike and ski stuff.
  • bompington
    bompington Posts: 7,674
    Svetty wrote:
    Given that a new inner will cost peanuts why not....
    thanks for the helpful advice, I'll know what to do now ;-)
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Brakes are for pussies.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    Is that a puncture repair on your orange yoga ball? :lol:

    And what’s the lower headset bearing like? Zooming in looks like lots of rust emanating in the gap between fork and frame... :cry:

    PP
  • Alejandrosdog
    Alejandrosdog Posts: 1,975
    I wouldn’t use that , will the remaining part even reach the caliper now?

    Even if it does, it’s unraveled and shot, time for a new cable.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Alejandrosdog wrote:
    I wouldn’t use that , will the remaining part even reach the caliper now?

    Even if it does, it’s unraveled and shot, time for a new cable.

    Whooosh! :D

    @ Bomp; I take it since you can clearly type that you didn't discover this when descending anything steep?

    Can't remember the last time I had to replace a brake cable...
  • bompington
    bompington Posts: 7,674
    Well yes!

    Despite what you might think from the pic, that is my best bike, and it's been hung on the garage wall since the end of November.

    It might not have been cleaned and lubed quite as thoroughly as one would hope before being tidied away.

    Being used (nearly) year-round in Scotland it is exposed to a lot of salt and crud. Take a look at the rust on the bolts for example.

    So I took it down the other night to get it set up: replaced the front wheel, whose lateral movement was only held in check by the brakes (without the brakes it might have been hitting the forks) and gave the brakes a quick squeeze to see what state they were in. It didn't take a lot of force to snap the cable.

    So its first ride of the year in to work this morning at an unseasonal 10º, with an old gear cable providing front brake connectivity. No worries.
  • bompington
    bompington Posts: 7,674
    ... and yes, many thanks to all who have earnestly offered advice :D
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,813
    bompington wrote:
    So I took it down the other night to get it set up: replaced the front wheel, whose lateral movement was only held in check by the brakes (without the brakes it might have been hitting the forks) and gave the brakes a quick squeeze to see what state they were in. It didn't take a lot of force to snap the cable.
    That'll teach you, if you hadn't checked it would have been fine.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
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  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    blimey

    do i have to spell everything out to you lot?

    the cable is only rusty at the exit point - it will be fine under the outer.

    trim cable outer away until you have enough non rusty cable to clamp to brake.
    sorted.

    as the outer will now be shorter this also saves any hassle with the head set bearings as you won't
    be able to turn the 'bars too far.

    winner winner chicken dinner.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • bompington
    bompington Posts: 7,674
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    blimey

    do i have to spell everything out to you lot?

    the cable is only rusty at the exit point - it will be fine under the outer.

    trim cable outer away until you have enough non rusty cable to clamp to brake.
    sorted.

    as the outer will now be shorter this also saves any hassle with the head set bearings as you won't
    be able to turn the 'bars too far.

    winner winner chicken dinner.
    Absolutely, and the grooves you can see in the pic already worn by the rear gear cable clearly indicate that I am familiar with this procedure ;-)
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I keep saving the old rear mech inner cables trimmed down to make front mech cables. And in 15 years I've only ever had to replace one of those, so I have a drawer full...
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    keef66 wrote:
    I keep saving the old rear mech inner cables trimmed down to make front mech cables. And in 15 years I've only ever had to replace one of those, so I have a drawer full...

    the MFs use old rear mech cables as front brake cables - if you undo a couple of strands of the wire you get the rusty bits off and save weight

    #upstairsforthing
    #downstairsfordancing
    #thrifty
    #weightweenie
    #fasterthanclubbies
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.

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