Q-Factor and Stance Question
EyesHockey
Posts: 6
I just added a left crank arm power meter and noticed (measured) it is 1mm wider due to not sliding on the spindle as far as my old one. I am tightening the crank arm with a torque wrench.
So, my left crank arm and pedal are now 1mm to the left.
Does this matter? I can use pedal spacers to adjust but was wondering if I should even worry about it.
Should I just ride and see if I can tell?
So, my left crank arm and pedal are now 1mm to the left.
Does this matter? I can use pedal spacers to adjust but was wondering if I should even worry about it.
Should I just ride and see if I can tell?
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Comments
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I think it's a non-problem. There's something like a 25mm difference in Q factor between the narrowest (Stronglight 49D) and widest (Deore XT M785) cranks that I ride, and I don't notice the difference.0
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EyesHockey wrote:I just added a left crank arm power meter and noticed (measured) it is 1mm wider due to not sliding on the spindle as far as my old one. I am tightening the crank arm with a torque wrench.
So, my left crank arm and pedal are now 1mm to the left.
Does this matter? I can use pedal spacers to adjust but was wondering if I should even worry about it.
Should I just ride and see if I can tell?
How can you use a pedal spacer to bring the pedal in towards the centreline of the bike (as you said the arm is 1mm further outboard)? Do you mean you could remove an already fitted pedal spacer (a washer I assume?)
If the arm is not going onto the spindle as far as the one you removed, haven’t you now got side to side play? Doesn’t that need taking up with a 1mm plastic spacer/ wavy washer?
You will not notice the 1mm difference when pedalling so I would just make sure you haven’t got any sideways play in the crank spindle and ride it.
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Seriously ? 1mm ?
Clearly it's unrideable. Give it to me to dispose of.0 -
I did add a spindle spacer next to the wave washer to remove any side to side play.
I was thinking I could add a spacer to the other side’s pedal.
I know Q-Factor and stance vary greatly from road to mountain bikes and nobody notices that when riding, right? My question is if once side is wider than the other. I know it’s just 1 mm. All other bike fit things seem to matter (seat height as an example) down to the 1 mm. Also, we are talking hours and hours of repeated motion with 1 side wider. Would I start to sit weird on the saddle perhaps?
It’s a valid question. I was just wondering if I should aim for symmetrically wide pedals. My plan was to get as close as I can. Now, is my body symmetrical? I know there is no such thing, but I have no measurements of my body that make me think I should plan to be asymmetrical.0 -
I would honestly just ride it, you will not feel it or end up twisted and injured! Honestly, you could be 0.5mm out with each cleat and achieve the same total error and be none the wiser. In the big scheme I think you are over thinking it.
Think about it - spacers/ wavy washers are included with bottom brackets to take up play due to shell width differences. You just fit them as per installation instructions and don’t worry about the position of each pedal relative to the centreline of the frame. By all means fit a washer behind your other pedal if it works for you psychologically, but I don’t think it is necessary.
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Cool. I appreciate the reply. Sounds like it’s not something people focus on which is what I was asking.0
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Indeed.
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Hey check out this article from BIKE RADAR!!!
This was on their mobile homepage today when I scrolled down a few sections.
https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/art ... dth-52760/
I guess my original question wasn’t a Q-Factor question...just a Stance question.
I knew my question was a bike fit question. However, reading this and thinking a bit more (after over thinking it by far already, I know ;-)) makes me say I need to ignore the measurements and look at my legs and ride a bit...with a GoPro for a bit on each leg.
Anyway, interesting timing for this article!!!0 -
Just ride the bike.0
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Rode the bike to work on Friday and certainly could not notice a difference and no new noises or anything which was good. 40 miles round trip was a good final test.
I looked at my knees and feet for bike fit and nothing was obvious and it seemed to ride just the same which was expected (and hoped for).
The power meter is cool for sure. I just used power instead of speed on my display for the first day not even looking at speed. I use Cyclemeter right now. I like Power, Power Last 20 Seconds, and Power Average.
First semi-major upgrade (part swap) for the bike!!! Success!!!0 -
Excellent.
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I think 90 rpm x 60 x 3 (hours) certain and permenant knee hip and back damage.
I’ll take your junk bike off your hands.
A0
