shifting problem
Comments
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Not squeezing it too tight on the Turbo? Mine is snug contact + two turns
When was last time you cleaned and lubed the chain?
Hanger looks straight to me.
Have you indexed it yet?Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.
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PhotoNic69 wrote:Not squeezing it too tight on the Turbo? Mine is snug contact + two turns
When was last time you cleaned and lubed the chain?
Hanger looks straight to me.
Have you indexed it yet?
Happens when off the turbo too.
Will give indexing a bash with help of youtube, I'm not the best mechanical wise, bizarre seeing as i am am an electrician! Goign on an all day intesive course on saturday bike maintenance at big independant bike shop in Edinburgh, after that I'll be a whiz, in theory0 -
Just follow the Park Tools video. Foolproof.
Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.
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Right, ok.
We are trying to help, but you are making it difficult. I am beginning to think that maybe the lbs would be better for you as you seem unwilling to even index the gears following a video, or the Shimano dealer manual for your rear derailleur. It is a very simple task, that shouldn’t require any tools (maybe an Allen key if the cable slack needs taking up a bit). Just follow the video/ guide and give it a go.
You still haven’t posted a picture directly behind, like I posted an example of above. Without this nobody can say if your indexing looks out. Having said that, just index it anyway.
The B tension adjustment looks just about ok, but it is hard to tell exactly. Follow a video/ the DM and set it.
If these don’t sort it then I would check the derailleur hangar. Despite what you say and think the chances are that it is not exactly right. Setting it using a proper hanger tool is the only way to eliminate it as a possible cause. It can look perfectly straight like yours does, but be out enough to cause shifting problems. Once again, just check it, or get your lbs to check it if you don’t have access to the correct tool.
Only after doing all those things would I look at cable/ shifter/ derailleur itself problems.
You can keep posting the same pictures again and again but nobody can help you with those. You need to roll your sleeves up and actually carry out some of the diagnostics that people have offered to eliminate possible causes and get to the bottom of the problem. Give it all a good degrease and get it sparkling clean as that will make it easier to see everything and make it more pleasant to work on.
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I very appreciative of tge help and will index it, but at moment I need spend some time withy family. Surely tge last photo is directly behind like you asked? It's not easiest to get the camera in with wheel in the way0
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Its not quite behind, you can cheat using a phone putting the camera lens in line ignore which way up the phone is images can be rotated.
B Limit looks OK, but possibly a little more will allow enough gap between the cassette an sprocket if the rear mech isnt 100% level in the 11th, if not itll be 1/4 turns on the cable tension for that.0 -
shiznit76 wrote:I very appreciative of tge help and will index it, but at moment I need spend some time withy family. Surely tge last photo is directly behind like you asked? It's not easiest to get the camera in with wheel in the way
Indexing takes less than 5 mins. Watching a full video of it maybe 10mins.
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So after trying to index gears abd adjust rear derailleur and no joy i took the bike to LBS who said the cable must be corroded. the bike has only a year old done about 2500 miles in almost always dry conditions, surely the cable shouldn't be corroded?0
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Sweat?
So they said it must be corroded? Did they replace it? Is the problem solved? Or did they/ you remove the cable and see the corrosion?
Does the derailleur move freely in and out with the chain and cable removed? This would eliminate a tightness in part of the parallelogram - some sort of restriction like a burr or such like.
Did you get them to check the hanger for alignment? 5 min job that they couldn’t charge you more than a few quid to check.
It’s all about eliminating likely causes. If indexing hasn’t rectified it, as said before, check the hanger alignment. If that doesn’t sort it check the cable for freedom of movement. Remove it from the derailleur clamp and pull the inner cable tight in your fingers. Get someone else to click through the gears at the shifter as you pull on the inner and hold the outer. You may be able to feel a restriction between certain clicks which could indicate a cable restriction, either inner (such as a kink or corrosion) or outer such as corrosion, too tight a run etc.
If the cable is restricted in some way then I’d remove the inner and inspect it. Has it got a kink or corrosion? If so I’d replace the inner (they only cost a couple of quid). If this doesn’t sort it I’d change the outer and end stop ferrules having inspected the cable run (including under the bar tape and where it mates with the shift lever).
When replacing the outer you need a proper cable cutter to ensure a clean, square cut with no burrs. You can tidy any cut end up with the likes of a dremmel tool. Ensure the hole is clear - use a pick/ bradall to ensure no plastic burrs are restricting the hole, and check the hole is still round and not at all ovalised by the cut. You can gently squeeze the outer to get it back round if necessary.
If after replacing the cable inner and outer the issue remains, you have now eliminated another possible cause. The trick is to do the cheapest solutions first and then escalate to the more expensive items if the problem persists.
Ultimately it may be an issue with the shifter itself, so that should be the last thing you replace as it is probably the most expensive item.
What you can do is try swapping the rear derailleur with a mate (or another bike you own) if they have the same number of cogs/ brand. If your rear derailleur works on your mates bike once set up correctly, then you have eliminated the rear derailleur being the cause. Or, put another derailleur on and see if the issue persists...
And so on.
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And another thought, the cable is clamped the correct way at the derailleur isn’t it? Check the dealer manual to ensure the routing under the clamp is the correct side of the bolt - I’ve seen this before where the cable wasn’t clamped correctly and it affected the pull ratio causing bad indexing.0
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Buy one of these:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-inner/
Some of this:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/gt85/?sr=Gt85
Remove cable. Squirt gt85 down the outer. Install new cable. Index gears. Ride bike. Fine tune as necessary.Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.
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PhotoNic69 wrote:Buy one of these:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/transfil-gear-cable-inner/
Some of this:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/gt85/?sr=Gt85
Remove cable. Squirt gt85 down the outer. Install new cable. Index gears. Ride bike. Fine tune as necessary.
The cables are all internal, I take it this is a complete pain in the hoop to change?0 -
update, bizarrely the problem seems to have sorted itself and now shifting no problem, maybe wee bit of dirt on inner cable or something that has wored free? Don't know, but all is good again0
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The symptoms point to a cable issue. Don’t be surprised if when you look there is fraying inside the changer. Peel back the hood and look at the point where the cable is threaded in.
They’re susceptible to damage especially where the conditions are tough, such as used on turbo all winter.
If you check and see that, you should change the outer too, when you remove the bar tape you should expect,
1 a bit of a whiff
2 corrosion on the bar and possibly the band that holds the shifter on which can be brushed off if not too bad with a stiff brush.
It’s normal for bits drenched in sweat.
In any case the whole job should take about an hour if you’re moving very slowly and a little uncertain. You’ll need some new bar tape, insulating tape and a new cable plus some outer. Cheap as chips.
If you haven’t got one yet you’ll need a cable cutting tool, they’re quite expensive but essential for bike maintenance.
You’ll also need a knife and a pair of scissors and possibly a pair of pliers.
So cost of between £15 and £30 depending on if you need to buy a cable cutter and an hours time. Cheaper by far than a bike shop and hours less faffing.
I tend to replace the cables on my turbo / winter bike once every 6-8 months or so (which is before they’re needed but since i change the bar tape that regularly i think i might as well do the cables.). I have to change the bar tape because its become a turbo sweat health hazard 0 -
Interesting info, will have a look...0
