tubeless-ready wheels & puncture problems

turbo_hamster

New bike came with tubeless-ready wheels and tyres (Schwalbe Pro One), but with tubes fitted.

First puncture was rear wheel and I did the roadside fix without major issues, replacing the tube.

Front wheel went flat recently, fortunately overnight, so I wasn't stranded. I had major trouble getting the tyre off, and resorted to standing it on a radiator for half an hour to soften everything.

I have totally failed to replace the tube. The tyre is too tight for me to get it back on without resorting to tyre levers. Yes, I know this is not recommended, but I sometimes resort to gentle levering with my other bike. This time, impossible job, I cut two inner tubes trying to get the tyre back on. Please note, in 40 years of cycling, this is the first time I have damaged a tube when installing it.

The tyre is so tight, I can't stuff the tube properly into the tyre casing.

After some thought, I concluded:

1. the tyre and wheel are designed to be run tubeless, so it is meant to be tight.
2. I can't risk riding the bike with a tube setup, as I can't fix a flat.
3. Choice is to go tubeless or buy regular tyres e.g. Gatorskins that I can handle.

Any thoughts or experience to share? Will a DT Swiss E1800 spline take a regular tyre, or is the rim design always going to be a problem for tyre fitting?

orlok

turbo hamster wrote:

New bike came with tubeless-ready wheels and tyres (Schwalbe Pro One), but with tubes fitted.

First puncture was rear wheel and I did the roadside fix without major issues, replacing the tube.

Front wheel went flat recently, fortunately overnight, so I wasn't stranded. I had major trouble getting the tyre off, and resorted to standing it on a radiator for half an hour to soften everything.

I have totally failed to replace the tube. The tyre is too tight for me to get it back on without resorting to tyre levers. Yes, I know this is not recommended, but I sometimes resort to gentle levering with my other bike. This time, impossible job, I cut two inner tubes trying to get the tyre back on. Please note, in 40 years of cycling, this is the first time I have damaged a tube when installing it.

The tyre is so tight, I can't stuff the tube properly into the tyre casing.

After some thought, I concluded:

1. the tyre and wheel are designed to be run tubeless, so it is meant to be tight.
2. I can't risk riding the bike with a tube setup, as I can't fix a flat.
3. Choice is to go tubeless or buy regular tyres e.g. Gatorskins that I can handle.

Any thoughts or experience to share? Will a DT Swiss E1800 spline take a regular tyre, or is the rim design always going to be a problem for tyre fitting?

Schwalbe Pro One is a tubeless tire and is very tight. It's very difficult to put an inner tube in it when the tire is (almost) new. I conseil to run the tire tubeless with latex inside and repair the tube on the road with a Dynaplug racer kit.! And only if this didn't work to put an inner tube with the help of plastic tire levers Schwalbe.

singleton

Most, if not all tubeless wheels will take a regular clincher and tube.

turbo_hamster

[/quote]Schwalbe Pro One is a tubeless tire and is very tight. It's very difficult to put an inner tube in it when the tire is (almost) new. I conseil to run the tire tubeless with latex inside and repair the tube on the road with a Dynaplug racer kit.! And only if this didn't work to put an inner tube with the help of plastic tire levers Schwalbe.[/quote]

I think you are right about giving up on running a tube inside the Pro One tyre. In fact, seems like the supplier of the bike did something very lazy there.

The alternative, to buy regular tyres, appeals to me a bit more , just because I know where I am with clinchers. Wondered if anyone has any views on running a regular clincher on a tubeless-ready wheel?

turbo_hamster

Singleton wrote:

Most, if not all tubeless wheels will take a regular clincher and tube.

That would be an option, then. Annoying to have to buy clinchers, but gives me an alternative to going for the messy, difficult tubeless option.

joe_totale-2

Keep the Pro ones and go tubeless.

orlok

Joe Totale wrote:

Keep the Pro ones and go tubeless.

I agree, and the most flats you'll get the latex will do his work.!

svetty

Baffled at how you managed to change a tube at the roadside without difficulty but not at home?

Clearly the tyre was installed - with tube - originally by someone so it must be possible.......

singleton

Svetty wrote:

Baffled at how you managed to change a tube at the roadside without difficulty but not at home?

He did say it was a different wheel - but if they're a matching pair of wheels and tyres then I wouldn't expect them to be too different.

turbo_hamster

Svetty wrote:

Baffled at how you managed to change a tube at the roadside without difficulty but not at home?

Clearly the tyre was installed - with tube - originally by someone so it must be possible.......

I'm baffled too...the rear wheel was OK, the front wheel has defeated me. I have had tight tyres before, but not as bad as this. Understandably so, since the tubeless-ready tyre is meant to be tight.

The solution might be to develop a stronger set of thumbs, but I may have left this a bit late.

So, should I stay or should I go? So far, the forumites are on the side of biting the bullet and running the wheels tubeless.

arlowood

I can certainly sympathise with your plight. Bought a Rose X-Lite 4 last October and it came with DT Swiss P1750 Spline wheels and Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tyres.
The bike was delivered with the tyres fully inflated and the front wheel removed. To fit the front wheel I had to reduce the tyre pressure to get the wheel past the brake blocks easily. Pumped the tyre up to pressure and left it. Following morning the tyre was flat.
I struggled hugely first to remove the tyre then to replace with a new inner tube fitted. (Actually snagged 2 new inners in the process before I finally got it sorted.

Have done abt 100 miles so far but I'm dreading puncturing somewhere remote as I think I'll struggle to remove and refit the tyre by the roadside - not to mention avoiding nicking the inner tube in the process.

Not sure what Rose do when assembling the bike but I guess they may have a jig to fit the tyres and inner tubes. Can't believe they have a mechanic wrestling with those tubeless tyres.

I'm seriously considering switching the Schwalbes for some Michelin Pro4 Endurance I have to hand. I know I can work easily with them

Details of my trials and tribulations on this thread

viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=13100225

cycleclinic

Stick with tubeless carry tyre plugs. You'll need them with the pro ones.

Try these. They have thin and thick sticky plugs.

https://www.merlincycles.com/maxalami-r ... 10339.html

Dynaplugs also work but are expensive and to get the thick plugs you have to spend even more.

pilot_pete

Just a thought regarding those really tight rims/ tyre - don’t wish to teach anyone to suck eggs, but those who are struggling, you are using correct technique for mounting the tyres aren’t you?

What I mean is getting the tyre bead in the well of the tubeless ready rim, opposite to the last bit you are trying to get on? I know some people don’t realise this well is designed to help get the tyre on and persist in trying to force the tyre over the rim sidewall without seating the bead in the well on the opposite side, which makes the task nigh on impossible.

The other point to consider is mounting the last bit of tyre at the valve, which allows the opposite side to sit fully in the well. If you mount it at the valve first and try to finish opposite the valve, the valve itself can prevent the tyre sitting fully in the well at that point.

PP

Tyresome

Tubeless tyres, gotta love ‘em.

cycleclinic

You may need better levers. Pro ones should be run tubeless.

Actually tubeless levers are the key. The link is to the IRC levers. I don't use the barb end. The other end though is thin, broad and very tough. You can get it under tight fitting tyres to remove and it get tight tyres over without breaking. Any lever that has this shape will be good for Tubeless tyres.

http://crossbikereview.com/gear/reviews ... ire-levers

The main issue is using pro ones with tubes. The bike should have been delivered to you Tubeless.

orlok

thecycleclinic wrote:

You may need better levers. Pro ones should be run tubeless.

Actually tubeless levers are the key. The link is to the IRC levers. I don't use the barb end. The other end though is thin, broad and very tough. You can get it under tight fitting tyres to remove and it get tight tyres over without breaking. Any lever that has this shape will be good for Tubeless tyres.

http://crossbikereview.com/gear/reviews ... ire-levers

The main issue is using pro ones with tubes. The bike should have been delivered to you Tubeless.

Schwalbe tire levers looks to have the same shape.!

StillGoing

Tyresome wrote:

Tubeless tyres, gotta love ‘em.

The standout lesson for anyone is whatever Nick says, ignore it. :roll:

turbo_hamster

Many thanks for the comments, most of which are very useful. I'm relieved I'm not the only one to have wrecked inner tubes, trying to fit them in an unsuitable tyre. Had never come across the tubeless levers, good post. I guess I have to go fully tubeless now, and take the point that DIY makes sense, if I want to understand how my bike works.

StillGoing

turbo hamster wrote:

Many thanks for the comments, most of which are very useful. I'm relieved I'm not the only one to have wrecked inner tubes, trying to fit them in an unsuitable tyre. Had never come across the tubeless levers, good post. I guess I have to go fully tubeless now, and take the point that DIY makes sense, if I want to understand how my bike works.

A correctly fitted tubeless tyre offers real benefits over clinchers. Ignore the idiot with no experience, but likes to post on here as if he's some cycling guru and mechanical expert on everything. Anyone would think carrying tyre worms instead of patches was like carrying a bag of bricks.

cycleclinic

the schwalbe levers bend too much and can break other wise they are the right shape.

veryslowtwitch

IRC levers sold out at cycleclinic! where else can I get them?

Turbo hamster, I drank the Kool Aid and went full tubeless with worms and assure you it works, although you have to put up wth incredulous looks from mates when you bring a worm kit out for the first time. Gradually changing all wheels and tyres now.

cycleclinic

I'll have more in a couple of weeks. I have to keep stock back as I send out a set with every tubeless wheelset I build so folk don't have the op's problem.

I posted to show you the shape that works best for tight tyres. The down side to this type of lever is lower leverage but you can get it under the bead do you get to lever. that's why this shape has to strong or it will break. I broke my schwalbe levers. I have been using the same IRC levers most days for over 12 months. Strong as.