New Mountain Bike self built vs prebuilt

fowler002
fowler002 Posts: 18
edited February 2019 in MTB buying advice
Finally looking at getting a proper Full Suspension, I say proper as I have a almost 20 year old cheap £300 from Halfords one (Saracen Raw) in early 2000 (can’t exactly but pre 2003). Unfortunately didn’t ride the old one too much due to shear laziness, over the last several years been meaning to get it checked over and ride it before getting a new one. Think I’ll use the old one to ride to town etc instead of going by car in the summer as I’m trying to lose weight, use outdoor biking along with the gym sessions(including the indoor bike). Less risk of the new bike being stolen.

Anyway back the point of the thread, been looking at ~£1k full suspension bikes and going by reviews it’s looking like the Bossnut Evo or the Triple B. Also thought I’d try and put together a list of parts for a self build, trying to put together a list a beginner-intermediate level parts, I.e not too expensive but good for both beginners but with room to grow and not require being upgraded quickly.

I’ve not really done any “real” mountain biking as my first bike in the early 90s was a bmx and as mentioned previous bike I didn’t really use, most of my off-roading has been on grass. My neighbor has I believe a full sus trek tho not sure which model, in the summer he goes away for a certain period of time and when he returns his bike is muddy. Think he’s told me where he goes but I can’t remember, if I finally get a new bike I’ll ask him if I can join him and his son(not sure if his wife and daughter join in with getting muddy).

Here’s what I’ve come up with:

Frame: Cube Stero 140 HPA Pro 2017 £300
Fork: RockShox Revelation RC Boost 2019 140mm travel £418
Shocks: RockShox Monarch R
Groupset: SRAM GX Eagle £350
Brakes: Shimano SLX £120
Brake rotors: Shimano RT76 £50 or SRAM Centerline £60
Dropper post: Brand X Ascend £100 + £25 for the level kit
Saddle: SDG Bel Air 2.0 £50
Seatclamp: Brand-X £4
Headset: Brand X 44-56 IITS sealed £18
Grip: DMR Deathgrip
Handlebar + stem Nukeproof Horizon £100
Wheels: Hunt Trail Wide £350
Tyres: Maxxis DHF/DHR II
Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB PressFit92 £40
Rear Derailleur Hanger 2090 AXH £14

I know I’m missing some stuff so can the experienced people point them out/make suggestions.

Not sure what type of riding I want to do so trying for a bike that can handle most things, not a bike mechanic so will be asking my local bike shop(not too far away from my house) for help with the tricky stuff and those that require special tools and who knows my neighbor might know a thing or two. Well that’s if I decide to go this route, most likely is getting the Bossnut/Triple B(or if there is another bike of choice in that price bracket in the next few months as I plan to buy in the summer if I go prebuilt)and upgrading parts over time.

Just one final thing,

Nukeproof Scout HT
Frame: Nukeproof Scout £400
Fork: Fox 34 Rhythm 150mm £300
Headset: Nukeproof Warhead 44-56 IITS think it’s included with the frame
Groupset: SRAM NX Eagle Dub Boost £225
Brakes: Shimano SLX £120
Brake Rotors: Shimano RT76 £50
Wheel set: Mavic XA Elite Boost XD £240
Dropper Post: Brand-X Ascend II £125 dropper + lever kit
Saddle: SDG Bel Air 2.0 £50
Seatclam: Nukeproof Horizon £8
Handlebar + Stem: Nukeproof Horizon 780mm 25mm rise + 50mm length 31.8mm clamp steam £100
Grip: DMR Deathgrip £15
Bottom Bracket: SRAM DUB BSA 73mm £35

At current sale prices comes in at around what the scout 275 comp costs £1700, tho I’m sure I’m missing thing

How does the Fox fork compare to the Rockshox Revelation Charger RC fitted by Nukeproof on the top model(the Scout Comp) & also what’s the difference between the one fitted on the comp and the revelation rc sold by crc/wiggle?
Is the GX Eagle worth the £100 odd over the NX Eagle?

Going full suspension but just put the ht list together for fun.

Comments

  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    Now that’s a lot of questions! Don’t have time to go through each one, but you’ll need a bottom bracket added to your list. Brakes, I can’t rate the deore M6000 highly enough for a fairly entry level brake. Sees me round bike park Wales with a set of Uberbike finned race matrix pads in them. NX or GX, the difference is a slight bit of weight, and the NX only goes down to a 11 tooth cog, not 10. So you loose some of the higher end speed. However it’s more flexible going forwards as it fits a regular free hub. When the time comes, that’ll probably be what I go for, if there’s not something newer out there.

    For what it’s worth, people say the BBB is a good bike. Whatever you do, enjoy. :)

    Oh, and don’t think more travel is better. Get a bike that suits where/what you ride.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • slc123
    slc123 Posts: 407
    You’ll want to add some tyres to that list too.

    In terms of prebuilt vs. building yourself...I think at entry level you will struggle to build a cost effectively as you can buy from the mainstream vendors like vitus or Calibre. Their economies of scale allow them to make a well specd bike for the money. If you want to do it for your own enjoyment that’s a different storey. For me where it becomes worth it is when you get to a point of buying intermediate - higher level components. If you’re not under pressure time wise and don’t mind buying second hand you can get some amazing bargains and build something a lot cheaper than buying new.

    To answers your questions I believe DUB is more compatible and GXP is a 24mm spindle.

    Brake rotors you have 2 options 6 bolt or centrelock depending on your hubs. I’ve always favouredthe SRAM centrelines

    Seat clamp doesn’t matter as long as it’s the right size.

    Death grips are good although they may not suit you so worth trying a few.

    Wheelsets - lots of options which will depend what you are looking for. Something light or wider for more technical stuff. I’m a big fan of the dt Swiss stuff for value vs. Quality.

    If you are just doing the build to save money I would definitely look at buying off the shelf like the BBB as it’s ready to go and you know its going to be a good bike for the money. You can always then build something higher spec alongside it!
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • Thanks for the replies...
    In my original post forgot to mention I’m 5’7 with 29-30inch inside leg so on the border of the small & medium frame of the Vitus, with one a small frame being left in stock if I was to go this route would there be any issues?
    In regards to the boost question I see that you can get the forks in boost and non-boost so the front wheel is dictated by that, do boost rear wheels fit all frames or does a frame have to be especially designed for it?
    And for the brake rotors how do you tell if it’s the 6 bolt or cl that’s compatible with the wheel/hub? Also is there any issues using a SRAM rotor with Shimano brakes and vice versa?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    5'7" suggests a small unless you have abnormal proportions.
    Boost is wider hub (and matching wider frame/fork spacing), so if the frame is boost you must use a boost rear wheel, if it's not you can't, unless you want a lot of hassle and an oddity come resale then that dictates you use Boost front fork/wheel as well.
    6/bolt or centrelock is dictated by the wheel, if it has 6 bolt holes it can't use centrelock, if its threaded for centrelock you can still use 6 bolt using an adaptor or just use centrelock discs.
    No issue, a disc is a disc.
    Also consider using good used parts, it can save a lot of money and once you've used the bike it makes little odds if the part was new or used when it was first built.
    I build all my own bikes and used parts can save a fortune, in addition if you want to save money you can buy a lower spec (say a Deore rear mech) than you originally intended and then when you upgrade (say to XT) sell the first (Deore) part on for minimal loss (or even sometimes a profit).

    Some other considerations, plus they have a page full of 29ers if that takes your fancy.
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/fu ... 24&o=preis Lots of options from Cube
    Fractionally dearer - also without shock
    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTIELV140 ... -275-frame
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • poah
    poah Posts: 3,369
    If you are wanting to save money then buy a pre-built bike. If you are going to entry level then buy pre-built.


    The pre built hunt 29er wheels area pretty heavy and also use a 36 hole rim/hub. can do better for £350
  • slc123
    slc123 Posts: 407
    A very wel made point on boost. My current HT runs boost front and standard rear and buying a second hand wheel set upgrade was really tricky as most people run boost or standard across the two.
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • Guess it’s back to the drawing board in terms of the forks & wheels as I believe it’s a non-boost frame, or go boost at the front and non-boost at the rear but still involves looking at other wheels as the hunt set only come in boost for 29inch.
  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    POAH wrote:
    The pre built hunt 29er wheels area pretty heavy and also use a 36 hole rim/hub. can do better for £350

    I can't see how the 29" Trailwide wheels are heavy at 1823g and are 32R.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • The Rookie wrote:
    Some other considerations, plus they have a page full of 29ers if that takes your fancy.
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/fu ... 24&o=preis Lots of options from Cube
    Fractionally dearer - also without shock
    https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRTIELV140 ... -275-frame

    Well the Vitus frame I was looking at is now sold out, which of the cube frames(with boost if possible as the new forks seem to be boost only) would you suggest for an all rounder?

    I’ve kind of decided on the major parts just need to figure out the tyres tho reading around and watching yt videos seems to suggest the dhf/dhr or magic mary/nobly nics amd the decision on the headset will be down to the frame.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'd be looking at the 140HPA, Bikeradar 4.5*
    https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/cate ... -15-48934/
    Frame in small
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cub ... nge-692636

    Another review here (same colour so almost certainly same year) indicates it is Boost.
    https://www.ambmag.com.au/feature/teste ... pro-460979
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    I'd be looking at the 140HPA, Bikeradar 4.5*
    https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/cate ... -15-48934/
    Frame in small
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cub ... nge-692636

    Another review here (same colour so almost certainly same year) indicates it is Boost.
    https://www.ambmag.com.au/feature/teste ... pro-460979

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cub ... prod154572

    Seems like it’s boost front(fox forks) & standard rear.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'm not seeing that?

    It's certainly not standard (135x10) rear, it says it's X12 (12mm through axle), which can be Boost (148) or Non-Boost (142).

    Be worth asking BD for clarificiation, that said Boost front and 12x142mm rear is pretty common and not, I'd say, and issue.

    I note this different 140 HPA frame is X12x142.
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cub ... zed-640971

    So its a bit confusing.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie wrote:
    I'm not seeing that?

    It's certainly not standard (135x10) rear, it says it's X12 (12mm through axle), which can be Boost (148) or Non-Boost (142).

    Be worth asking BD for clarificiation, that said Boost front and 12x142mm rear is pretty common and not, I'd say, and issue.

    I note this different 140 HPA frame is X12x142.
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cub ... zed-640971

    So its a bit confusing.

    Sorry by standard I meant non-boost, if you look at the q&a section of the crc link the person replying says it’s non-boost on the rear. And looking at the link you just gave looks like that is 2015 while the original one is 2017, I have no idea how relevant that is or when the boost/non-boost standard even started or any of the standards actually.