Full suspension advice

Mattywsc
Mattywsc Posts: 6
edited February 2019 in MTB buying advice
Hi All

Looking at getting my first full suspension bike having only been on hardtail in the past. I've tied it down to the following three with my budget but not sure which is best or would require less upgrades in the future. Calibre BBB, Marin B17, Boardman Mountain Bike Pro Full Suspension. Links below with specs if you aren't familiar with them,

https://m.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-trip ... ke-p432765

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/bikes/mo ... ObEALw_wcB

https://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... reId=10001

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • robertpb
    robertpb Posts: 1,866
    I'd go with the Calibre, most up to date geo and proven to be rock solid.
    Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"
  • Welcome to the forum.

    What do you want to get from the bike? If you ride a HT now, are you looking to ride the same stuff or learn new tricks?

    Of the bikes you have listed, the Triple B and Pro should serve you well. I just don't know enough about the Marin to offer an opinion on that.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    The Marin is only available in small, if that's an issue? The Pro FS is great value, the BBB is more up-to-date. I'd probably go BBB. What's your max budget?
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • Thanks guys, just over 1k all those bikes are in budget. Went to look at the calibre on weekend and definitely like the look of them
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    BC membership might also get you that Boardman for £1080, opportunity for stone added extras of your budget is closer to £1400
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Boardman gets my vote as well.
    Forks are the most expensive component on a bike and the Boardman has the best out of the bikes listed.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • slc123
    slc123 Posts: 407
    edited February 2019
    It's a tough one. The BBB has more modern geometry and a dropper post as standard, but the Boardman does have the better fork. I would probably slightly sway towards the BBB
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    The Boardman has internal routing for a dropper. Get the British Cycling discount and buy and dropper and new saddle while your at it. Try and get some sort of test ride though if you can. That’s the most important thing, the one that fits best.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • I had a Boardman FS for few years as my first full sus bike, I can vouch for it being really good. It lasted well and was a solid bike no matter how much I abused it.

    Take a look on Pauls Cycles for some alternative options...

    Like others said British Cycling gets you 10% discount at Halfords and CRC also.
  • jamski
    jamski Posts: 737
    mark_fogel wrote:
    I had a Boardman FS for few years as my first full sus bike, I can vouch for it being really good. It lasted well and was a solid bike no matter how much I abused it.

    Take a look on Pauls Cycles for some alternative options...

    Like others said British Cycling gets you 10% discount at Halfords and CRC also.

    Unless it's changed again, I believe the British Cycling discount at CRC is now only £10 off a £150 spend, so pretty cr@p really. Not going to bother renewing mine this year.
    Daddy, Husband, Designer, Biker, Gamer, Geek
    Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
  • Very torn from these responses. Need to have a look at them in person but I do like the calibre
  • Mattywsc wrote:
    Very torn from these responses. Need to have a look at them in person but I do like the calibre

    What we think and what the bikes look like is academic compared to you actually getting on them and giving them a go. The most important thing is to buy the bike that suits you and will agree with the type of riding you want to do.

    I don't buy shoes based on just other people's opinions. I try them on.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    Can you really tell though from a ride around a car park? There's a good argument for buying a second hand FS which appears to be close to what you want, riding it properly and finding out what you do and don't like, and then selling it again (ideally at a very small loss or even nil loss) and then seeing what new model would emphasise the bits you liked on the second hand one and improved on the bits you didn't like.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • larkim wrote:
    Can you really tell though from a ride around a car park? There's a good argument for buying a second hand FS which appears to be close to what you want, riding it properly and finding out what you do and don't like, and then selling it again (ideally at a very small loss or even nil loss) and then seeing what new model would emphasise the bits you liked on the second hand one and improved on the bits you didn't like.

    Totally agree that a ride round a car park isn't ideal. BUT - I did do that when I bought my HT many years ago as it was the only test ride I was going to get. It was enough to confirm the sizing was correct and reach/stack was in the right place. I kind of knew what I wanted so it wasn't a capability test.

    When I bought my 2nd hand FS I did indeed meet the vendor at Sherwood Pines and took the bike for a spin. We bonded really well and I love it. Certainly a great way to try a bike, if you can do it. Demo days are very good but I doubt Halfords or Go Outdoors do them.

    Not sure I'd subscribe to buying a bike to get the right sort of sizing/feel and then sell it on again.

    My initial comment ref the test ride was that I was suggesting that the OP does not `decide` which bike they want based on our views/opinions and what `looks better`. Getting their leg over and any sort of test ride may/may not highlight differences and influence the decsion. I've swung my leg over some very pretty, highly-specced bikes and just not got on with them.

    Any `try before you buy` is better than nothing.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • slc123
    slc123 Posts: 407
    I definitely wouldn’t buy a bike to try it and then sell it on, time consuming and I doubt you’ll get back what you pay for it. Trying for a period of time is a good option but difficult to do too. Peoples opinions are purely that and whilst they can inform you of what may be a better choice in terms of components, no one can actually say what’s the better bike.

    Also, unless you’ve ridden a lot of bikes and know exactly what you are after I’ll doubt you’ll notice a huge difference. The bike I started on years ago that was a pretty basic XC bike felt amazing and like it would do anything. I then built my own trail HT and the difference was huge, you then try something even better.... you get my point.

    Buy something that will fit what you want to do and appears relatively good value based on common opinion. If you can try it for size etc that’s great. I doubt it will be your “forever” bike so can always upgrade or change later once you’ve ridden it to its limitations. (Probably never for us mere mortals)
    Cannondale Trail 27.5 | 2015
    Titus El Chulo 27.5 | 2017
    Trek Slash 9 27.5 | 2015 (building)
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    If your test ride is going to be compromised by location, make sure that you are giving the bike a fair chance.

    There is always something in the car park you can bounce over,even if you have to take it yourself! Look out for kerbs, tree stumps on the road side, flights of steps etc. But the key thing is to get the bike set up for you, including suspension sag and tyre pressures. If your test ride is going to be compromised by location, make sure that you are giving the bike a fair chance.
  • The Boardman has some better spec for the money - drivetrain / fork / brakes, but the wheels have quite narrow rims by modern standards and the geometry isn’t as progressive as the Calibre.

    I’d be quite torn on the choice between the 2 personally and not sure which I’d pick. If you can get the Boardman a bit cheaper and get a dropper post as well that’s quite tempting.

    I think if you want to run the tyres tubeless than the calibre is the better option as it’s got more modern specced rims of a decent width and tubeless ready. I don’t think the mavic rims are designed for tubeless on the Boardman.
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    Joebristol wrote:
    ............. I don’t think the mavic rims are designed for tubeless on the Boardman.

    You may well be correct, but that does not mean that you can't use them for tubeless.

    I had some Mavic rims that were 19mm internal width. I ran them tubeless without a problem. So narrow rim width is no barrier to running tubeless. That is more a concern for the size of tyres you want to use.

    I have had wheels of all sorts that I doubt were "designed" from the off for tubeless running. No problem, just strip off the rim tape (that awful stuff that looks and feels like crackly old Sellotape). Then apply two runs of Gorilla tape. But first make sure that the rim is clean! After you have wiped it, give it another wipe over with iso-propyl alcohol (IPA), brake cleaner, or even meths if you have nothing else! Start several inches before the valve hole and finish several inches after. With two runs in total that should give you three layers of tape over the valve hole. Press it all down firmly, then pierce the tape over the hole, then enlarge the hole with a Phillips screwdriver or similar until the hole is big enough to take a tubeless valve. Wrap three layers of ptfe tape around the base of the rubber block of the tubeless valve and tap it into place. You may be able to get away without the ptfe tape, but I have had too many leaks from that area that I always do that now.

    PS: You can use any Gorilla tape of suitable width, but I prefer to use the shiny black stuff with the woven finish that looks like carbon fibre. Only you will know it's there, but it looks so cool! :lol:

    PPS: Gorilla tape is not some home remedy born out of desperation; it is fantastic stuff and superior in every way. My LBS uses it too.
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    As someone who has trouble-free run tubeless on Decathlon rims which definitely weren't designed for it, I can echo Steve's suggestions. Though I only do one loop of gorilla tape and don't bother with the PTFE tape either - though I do use Stans valves which are nicely tapered so fit into a hole snugly.

    @Steve - I've seen you mention the "carbon" style gorilla tape - what specific product of tape is that one? I've only ever used the standard black duct tape in 25mm width, is that what you're referring to? i.e. this https://www.toolstation.com/gorilla-clo ... qwQAvD_BwE
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • larkim wrote:
    As someone who has trouble-free run tubeless on Decathlon rims which definitely weren't designed for it, I can echo Steve's suggestions. Though I only do one loop of gorilla tape and don't bother with the PTFE tape either - though I do use Stans valves which are nicely tapered so fit into a hole snugly.

    @Steve - I've seen you mention the "carbon" style gorilla tape - what specific product of tape is that one? I've only ever used the standard black duct tape in 25mm width, is that what you're referring to? i.e. this https://www.toolstation.com/gorilla-clo ... qwQAvD_BwE

    Yes - that's the same tape. When fitted to your rims, it has a sort of rip-stop/carbon efffect to it. I've just used some on one of my rebuilt E13 rims (I did 2 loops just to be sure). Looks very nice. I also use Stans 35mm tubeless valves.

    I've also seen various Mavic `non-tubeless` rims set up `ghetto` with Gorilla tape etc. 717's, 719's etc. It can be done.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    larkim wrote:
    ...........

    @Steve - I've seen you mention the "carbon" style gorilla tape - what specific product of tape is that one? I've only ever used the standard black duct tape in 25mm width, is that what you're referring to? i.e. this https://www.toolstation.com/gorilla-clo ... qwQAvD_BwE

    Yep that's the stuff! :D
  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,474
    I've done Mavic Cross Ride and Mavic Cross Max wheelsets with gorilla tape with 100% success, just to fill in a mavic non-tubeless blank.

    I've yet to hear of a wheelset on a £300+ bike that couldn't be "ghetto" tubeless converted. But I'm sure there are horror stories out there.
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • gomezz
    gomezz Posts: 99
    I have the Boardman team FS 2017 , great bike and as Steve has said I converted to tubeless, first with the standard Contis then to Maxxis Ardents. No problems, no more flats even though there are any number of thorns in them.
    All in all I am very pleased with the bike.
  • Just to follow up I didn’t say tubeless was impossible, just maybe a little less ideal on the narrow mavic rims. My comment stands that the Calibre rims are better as they’re both wider and designed for tubeless.

    I had those mavic rims on the silver / green Pro Fs that was before the one being discussed and ran both 2.25” Nobby Nics and 2.4 Conti MK2’s and thought they were fine. Until I got a new bike with 25mm DT Swiss rims and could run Maxxis tyres that came up wider / squarer and had more grip.