help identifying DT Swiss hubs

h22221
h22221 Posts: 14
edited January 2019 in Road general
Hi

I have got a pair of DT Swiss R24 wheels with DT Swiss hubs, both hubs need a service but I don't know what hubs they are....

Thanks

2yyr33a.jpg

9atvys.jpg

Comments

  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Bit confused by your question. The hubs are R24 spline hubs - it even says so on them.
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    I have searched that but I don't think they're actually called r24 spline hubs, just want to know if they're i.ee 240, 350 or 370 hubs
  • That front hub looks like its seen some action
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    That front hub looks like its seen some action

    Looks like it's seen some salty roads. Hopefully the inside's not as white and fluffy...
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    Yea, they have....just wanting to re-build them both and re-spray them etc but need to know what bearings and service kits to get....
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    There's helpful videos on the DT Swiss website, but no specific mention of your wheels / hubs. I'd try taking them to bits and see which hubs they resemble and which bearings they contain.
  • If you are going to replace the bearings, then you'll have to remove them... you can then measure them and order what you need. Simplybearings will sell you all sizes you need.

    There is a tool required to remove the rear drive side bearing and it's not a cheap tool... around 60 GBP if memory serves me
    left the forum March 2023
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    There is a tool required to remove the rear drive side bearing and it's not a cheap tool... around 60 GBP if memory serves me

    :shock:

    Why do they make it hard to do something which I'd regard as routine maintenance? I thought the benefit of cartridge bearings was you could just pop them out and fit replacements??

    It's a bike wheel not a Eurofighter FFS
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    I'm sure I can do it without that tool....I'll have a go tonight and get back to you
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBoRqSnSfV8

    This chap rambles on a bit but he just uses a socket to tap in the bearing. Confusingly he starts with the thing dismantled so I didn't know how he got the bearings out. Then he tells you right at the end. Drive out the axle from one side which takes a bearing with it, then use a suitably sized deep socket to drive the other out

    Be handy if he actually mentioned the size of sockets or the bearings too...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXZlM5ibl5s

    This one needs the ring-nut removal tool Ugo refers to....
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    Thanks, yea I watched those....on the second, I think you can still replace the bearing without taking out the ring nut....also, if you're replacing the ring nut then I'm sure you could get it out without the tool dremel or the like if you're careful
  • h22221 wrote:
    Thanks, yea I watched those....on the second, I think you can still replace the bearing without taking out the ring nut....also, if you're replacing the ring nut then I'm sure you could get it out without the tool dremel or the like if you're careful

    It sounds like you know best, so don't really need advice from us... :wink:
    left the forum March 2023
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    Ha. all I wanted to know is what type they are i.e. 240, 350 blah blah blah.....
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    https://dycteyr72g97f.cloudfront.net/up ... EN_001.pdf

    According to that your wheels employ the 3 pawl system rather than a ratchet system, and it shows an exploded parts diagram, but it still doesn't tell you what the hub actually is, or how to replace the bearings.

    And if you go to the hub section of their website it just talks about 240, 350 blah blah blah.....
  • Ha. all I wanted to know is what type they are i.e. 240, 350

    In all likeihood they won't be any of those otherwise it would be an actual 240 or 350. I would imagine as a cost saving measure it is a fairly basic cartridge bearing hub that dt swiss produce for cheaper wheelsets. As long as you know what bearings you need and the fact, as has already been pointed out, that it is a pawl rather than ratchet system that should be enough to go on.
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    That first picture looks like it has some serious corrosion around the spoke holes. Is it just surface/ cosmetic damage? Is there a risk of failure with that amount of corrosion?

    PP
  • Pilot Pete wrote:
    That first picture looks like it has some serious corrosion around the spoke holes. Is it just surface/ cosmetic damage? Is there a risk of failure with that amount of corrosion?

    PP

    It's probably just dirt... the rear seems fine and I expect the rear to be always worse than the front
    left the forum March 2023
  • pilot_pete
    pilot_pete Posts: 2,120
    :wink:

    I reckon the disc rotor splines could do with a good clean and a tiny dab of grease to prevent further corrosion...

    I’ve read conflicting advice regarding that, but those hubs show the corrosion you can get if installing dry...

    PP
  • h22221
    h22221 Posts: 14
    Thanks for all of the replies.

    They are a version of DT's 370 hubs. Managed to get them all apart etc, lots of rust and corrosion inside so have new bearings on order etc.

    Just need to convert the front hub to 12mm rather than 15mm now! Another 30quid for new end caps.

    Corrosion is just surface, looks worse than it is, I'll be roughing it all up and painting is so will look almost new when finished, may need to but a new freehub body though as there's a fair bit of wear on the splines.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    no need to change a feehub if the splines arent a problem now. You can change the bearings inside at the same time as youre doing the rest.

    unless you want to spend your money of course.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The OP knows best it seems. That tool needed to get to the DS bearing is why I dont recommend DT Swiss hubs. That goes against conventional wisdom. what do I know.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    PS you cant remove the DS rear bearing without the ring nut tool. that ring nut is in tight. very tight. you need a very good vice too. a spanner wont help much.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    This from the DT Swiss website / manuals:

    Some hubs from model year 2015 on, are using ball bearings with a smaller
    outer diameter on the drive side. The bearing on the drive side can
    be changed without dismounting the ring nut
    On all further hubs, the ring nut must be dismounted the change the bearing.
    Check the hub version before starting further maintenance works.

    So it seems newer hubs could be more DIY friendly...
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    PS you cant remove the DS rear bearing without the ring nut tool. that ring nut is in tight. very tight. you need a very good vice too. a spanner wont help much.

    Ah yes i remember wondering if i was even turning in the right direction lolol, even the bench moved before the thing came free. sold the wheels shortly after not because of that just because i wanted to buy something else. I thought the hubs themselves were ace though
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    hey op ive got a pot of special grease for your hubs somewhere i think. I believe they milk it from unicorns so it comes in a very small pot. I'll look it out later if i can be bothered to brave the sub zero shed