On-One 456 Evo2 chain guide?

aserota
aserota Posts: 56
edited January 2019 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey all,

I'm looking to install a chain guide on my On-One 456 Evo2; but have no idea what will fit or which to go for!

I bought the bike 2nd hand around 3 years ago and it's seen mild use on light/moderate trails. It's setup 1x currently and I'm about to switch to a narrow-wide chainring as it will occasionally (and predictably) drop the chain. I'd like to go one step further and install a chain guide so it's a thing of the past - so am looking for advice for what to go for. I'm a roadie, so I'm out on the MTB one a week to give the collie a good few hours running around the local hills :-) Any advice is welcome - budget ideally is under £50, happy to go 2nd hand too

Comments

  • larkim
    larkim Posts: 2,485
    If you have only occasional dropped chains, why not see if the NW ring cures that sufficiently? Chain guides seem disproportionately expensive for what they often are, and if you’ve got a properly sized chain and a NW ring that’s often more than enough, isn’t it?
    2015 Canyon Nerve AL 6.0 (son #1's)
    2011 Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc (son #4s)
    2013 Decathlon Triban 3 (red) (mine)
    2019 Hoy Bonaly 26" Disc (son #2s)
    2018 Voodoo Bizango (mine)
    2018 Voodoo Maji (wife's)
  • aserota
    aserota Posts: 56
    larkim wrote:
    If you have only occasional dropped chains, why not see if the NW ring cures that sufficiently? Chain guides seem disproportionately expensive for what they often are, and if you’ve got a properly sized chain and a NW ring that’s often more than enough, isn’t it?

    Makes sense, just thought there's little harm in having everything setup and installed properly to keep any faults at bay
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Been using narrow wide for 3 years without a n extra guide and never dropped a chain, and that’s without having a damped rear mech.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,452
    edited January 2019
    Narrow -wide rings are good, but for best effect they need to be working with a clutch mech. The clutch mech damps down the lower strand of chain from whipping about.

    If you don't have a clutch mech fitted, a chain guide of the type that holds the chain on to the ring will not stop the lower strand of chain from bouncing up and down and hitting the chain stay. You can do several things with that: Ignore the noise and the paint chips; damp down the noise and stop the chips by fitting a neoprene cover to the chain stay (cheapest option); fit a chain guide called the RSP Chain DIrector. It looks like this:

    https://www.tredz.co.uk/.RSP-Chain-Dire ... gIX2fD_BwE

    There are various makes all of the same design and varying prices. The RSP is the best one in my opinion. I have used them for years. Don't need to use one now, but I would use one again without hesitation if I needed one. They can be used on 1x, 2x or 3x and work equally well on them all.

    Worth trying if you don't want to fit a clutch mech.

    PS: If you fit the RSP, then you won't need to also fit another chain guide around the front ring.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The upper run of chain bounces up and down as well....

    Just to add, the clutch used by Shimano is a friction damper, its adding a damper to the mech spring in the same way you can add a damper to a spring in a suspension system.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.