Brake pad causing flat?

photonic69

Matthewfalle wrote:

PhotoNic69 wrote:

So you've done 10k with this set up with no prior issues? So what changed before you began to have problems?

Where do new brifters come into this equation? If they worked once then they should work again provided nothing has changed however they do look on the limit. You 'might' get away with them if you angle brand new pads downward but when they wear away the problem returns

angling them down won't help.

the calipers are the wrong ones. you are lucky you haven't died yet.

Yeah but how did he do 10k without dying? Trying to establish what's changed?

svetty

Looks like it just needs new pads fitting. Caliper is a bit marginal but with new pads they should align with the brake track OK. Rims also worn......

straas

PhotoNic69 wrote:

Matthewfalle wrote:

PhotoNic69 wrote:

So you've done 10k with this set up with no prior issues? So what changed before you began to have problems?

Where do new brifters come into this equation? If they worked once then they should work again provided nothing has changed however they do look on the limit. You 'might' get away with them if you angle brand new pads downward but when they wear away the problem returns

angling them down won't help.

the calipers are the wrong ones. you are lucky you haven't died yet.

Yeah but how did he do 10k without dying? Trying to establish what's changed?

The fork was changed by the bike shop about 3500km ago, but it was a like for like fork so I assume the drop would be the same in both?

The wheels have only done about 4000km, but I suppose the incorrect pad position may have prematurely worn them?

Not really sure how I haven't noticed till now to be honest, looking at how out they are it's surprising the sidewall hasn't been marked at all - I can only think that the overlap sits in the recess just beyond the rim.

Matthewfalle

straas wrote:

PhotoNic69 wrote:

Matthewfalle wrote:

PhotoNic69 wrote:

So you've done 10k with this set up with no prior issues? So what changed before you began to have problems?

Where do new brifters come into this equation? If they worked once then they should work again provided nothing has changed however they do look on the limit. You 'might' get away with them if you angle brand new pads downward but when they wear away the problem returns

angling them down won't help.

the calipers are the wrong ones. you are lucky you haven't died yet.

Yeah but how did he do 10k without dying? Trying to establish what's changed?

The fork was changed by the bike shop about 3500km ago, but it was a like for like fork so I assume the drop would be the same in both?

The wheels have only done about 4000km, but I suppose the incorrect pad position may have prematurely worn them?

Not really sure how I haven't noticed till now to be honest, looking at how out they are it's surprising the sidewall hasn't been marked at all - I can only think that the overlap sits in the recess just beyond the rim.

its not up to you to assume - the shop did a dangerous job.

they took your money and turned your bike into something dangerous: they shouldn't have finished the job - pop forks in, start to set it all up, realise you have the wrong caliper, stop job, advise you its not safe.

they are cowboys. find someone else.

DeVlaeminck

Assuming the previous fork was ok either the wheel isn't seated correctly in the dropouts or the fork is slightly different, maybe the dropouts themselves. Easiest fix is some longer drop calipers - I always think short drop with mudguards is a bit of a bodge set up anyway. You might get away with angling the pads if you dont want to spend money.

super_davo

I've got short drop brakes on my Ribble Winter, came supplied like that from new. It's a proper old school frame designed for mudguards and 23mm max tyres hence it can work on short drops, if only just.

Your new fork looks like a Deda which won't be the same as the original CSN winterstorm original so I suspect that's the issue; people want long drop drilling now so they can run 28s with guards.

Anyway, I reckon you could file the thread holes on the bottom of the caliper to give yourself an extra 5mm or so to sit square in the middle of the rims - that's all it would need.

But you should change both the pads and rim - both look knackered.

Matthewfalle

don't start filing brake calipers.

for the sake of £20 just buy some and get a different shop to fit them.

you'll spend half of that on new pads anyway.

Vino'sGhost

I think we need to start a crap mechanic thread to name and shame duff shops and name duff mechanics

Matthewfalle

Vino'sGhost wrote:

I think we need to start a crap mechanic thread to name and shame duff shops and name duff mechanics

bloody good idea.

so far - the blokes who worked on this bike
- the blokes who gave that fella the overpriced and inconclusive bike fit in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=40042&p=20462788#p20462788


name them and we'll set up a new thread.

capt_slog

I'd still like to know how that causes punctures without ripping through the tyre.

Vino'sGhost

ok ive now looked at the pics here are some comments that you might / might not find useful

1 the pads are worn
2 your rims are nicely concave where theyve been worn
3 the rim wear is indicative of a correctly positioned pad
4 the calliper is not straight, one side is higher than the other
5 (more of a question) are the odd shaped washers still on the calliper? You know, the ones that allow you to fit the pad properly?
6. Dont store your bike under water or you get corrosion as shown on the calliper.
7, find a shop that knows what its doing, or ask a club mate or riding buddy.
8, why are your pads red?
9, why do i care????

Moonbiker

If rims less than 1mm thick could fail dramatically so you better get a new rim or wheel

You can measure thickness yourself:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YNR-IWANSON- ... 0677.m4598

getting_on_a_bit

Just had same issue.
Took me two punctures to realise the problem.
Sidewall of tyre had developed a very small tear low down just above the rim such that inner tube was able to just pop through,pea size only but was snagged as the brake pad arched down onto the rim causing it to Puncture.

old-cat

I had a problem kinda similar. I put many miles on these 700c wheels with no problems. Then out of nowhere the tires would go flat very frequently. After many tube replacements and patches, I found out the elastic rim strip was not compatible with the tubes. I put in some high quality cloth tape and no more flats.

Bumo_b

Having looked at Sheldons page https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/forklengths.htm and the link to the ad you posted the fork length seems quite short compared with others so couldnt see why the calipers would be too short. That being said, you shouldn't have a lip on the pads so maybe the caliper mount hole is placed higher. As others have said, is it in the exact same place. If it happens again, mark the inner tube and keep it so you can see exactly where it was positioned when you took it off (don't forget to mark the chainset side.) I once had a tiny burr on a set of pro lites that was very damn hard to find but found it this way. Also, are you using the same batch of inners to replace them with, maybe a batch fault?