top headset recommendations
swod1
Posts: 1,639
I've recently bought a new looking second hand frame to build up while i save some cash up for a new bike. i'm not liking the included headset.
Its a brand x one but the top cap doesn't fit correctly looking at it there is like a 2mm gap where you can get a metal feeler gauge in between the cup and top cap that covers the bearing if you know what i mean.
Doesn't look right to me, i have made sure there is 3-4mm gap after the stem spacers to allow for preloading etc.
I'm looking at replacement top headset are cane creek 40 any good? seen them for about 27 quid or is it better idea just put a hope one in. i can afford the hope one, but will consider other options. saving a little money where possible is always good.
top part of headset is zs44. Bottom part is fine.
Its a brand x one but the top cap doesn't fit correctly looking at it there is like a 2mm gap where you can get a metal feeler gauge in between the cup and top cap that covers the bearing if you know what i mean.
Doesn't look right to me, i have made sure there is 3-4mm gap after the stem spacers to allow for preloading etc.
I'm looking at replacement top headset are cane creek 40 any good? seen them for about 27 quid or is it better idea just put a hope one in. i can afford the hope one, but will consider other options. saving a little money where possible is always good.
top part of headset is zs44. Bottom part is fine.
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Comments
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Up to you, personally I'd just use it, the gap isn't of itself an issue at all.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:Up to you, personally I'd just use it, the gap isn't of itself an issue at all.
I've not actually ridden the bike yet so as you say should be fine.
I was thinking more for water ingress as i'm not sure if the bearings are stainless or not. I've put plenty of mobil grease over the seals in case.
I'll try it and see.
Not trying to skimp on stuff just don't want to spend money if i don't need to.0 -
My first commuter had a headset out a Carrera MTB, original from 2005, pretty rusty and a gap, greased it up and still working perfectly when the commuter was pensioned off 5 years and 6,500 miles later.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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The Rookie wrote:My first commuter had a headset out a Carrera MTB, original from 2005, pretty rusty and a gap, greased it up and still working perfectly when the commuter was pensioned off 5 years and 6,500 miles later.
I’ll just see how it goes, money can go towards a dropper post instead or whatever else.
I’m wondering if a rubber seal is missing but doesn’t look like one is used on the headset.0 -
On chain reaction cycles they were doing Nukeproof headsets for £12, I have used a few and they seem fine.0
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Bobbydigital wrote:On chain reaction cycles they were doing Nukeproof headsets for £12, I have used a few and they seem fine.
Yes i saw those, i'll see how it rides once it's built up over the weekend. if i can find one i could put a thin rubber washer under the top cap maybe.
Used to hope headsets with multiple seals, doing this build on the cheap but not scrimping on parts to save a couple of quid etc.0 -
Slip a rubber band over the top cap to fit into the gap?0
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steve_sordy wrote:Slip a rubber band over the top cap to fit into the gap?
I'll ride it and see what its like.
I've a headset cup remover in my tool box so can if i wanted to knock out the cup and fit something else.0 -
steve_sordy wrote:Slip a rubber band over the top cap to fit into the gap?0
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thistle (MBNW) wrote:steve_sordy wrote:Slip a rubber band over the top cap to fit into the gap?
You may not see the rubber band, but the inner tube would be obvious and maybe a bit unsightly. :shock:0