Rear Boost Hub, what am I doing wrong?

bobbydigital

I have a Mondraker Vantage RR frame which is listed as using 12x148mm, I have a Mavic wheel which uses 148mm and yet there is a gap, quite a big one.

The maxle is fully tight.

JBA

End cap missing from drive side of the hub?

bobbydigital

The drive side has the same goldish color end cap and measures 148mm with a digital vernier caliper.

The space between drops out is like 157mm so seems it's my mistake and infact 12x157 is needed.

Oh well looks like a Mondraker frame will be up for sale then. CBA to source 157 wheels.

From the little gold caps I am guessing the Mavic hub is a 142mm and the gold caps make it a 148mm.
I can get a 148 to 157mm mavic spacer kit but I doubt it would fit on to preexisting spacers.

steve_sordy

Do you know anyone with a lathe? If not use Mr Google.
It will not be hard to make a pair of spacers to fill the gap. Unless you live in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, I'm fairly sure that there will be someone witha lathe within a few miles of you. If they have a lathe, they will have a vernier caliper gauge which will be all the measuring kit they need. Pretty much any type of aluminium alloy will do the job, maybe even stainless steel if you can't obtain any ally. Simple job, once you have a lathe.

bobbydigital

I'm sure I can find someone and see, was just in a rush to build it but got other projects also.

cycleclinic

#too many axle standards. Its out of control.

bobbydigital

thecycleclinic wrote:

#too many axle standards. Its out of control.

It is when you're new to axles, QR was so simple.


I put the frame on ebay if anyone is after a "cheap" mondraker size small.
After doing the whole spacers, then would need a disc spacer and then to dish the wheel, also think the cassette would give a weird chainline.

I would do £180 privately plus about £18 postage.

The Rookie

steve_sordy wrote:

Do you know anyone with a lathe? If not use Mr Google.
It will not be hard to make a pair of spacers to fill the gap. Unless you live in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, I'm fairly sure that there will be someone witha lathe within a few miles of you. If they have a lathe, they will have a vernier caliper gauge which will be all the measuring kit they need. Pretty much any type of aluminium alloy will do the job, maybe even stainless steel if you can't obtain any ally. Simple job, once you have a lathe.

Adding length won’t move the cassette and disc out to the right place relative to the end of the locknuts though.

steve_sordy

The Rookie wrote:

steve_sordy wrote:

Do you know anyone with a lathe? If not use Mr Google.
It will not be hard to make a pair of spacers to fill the gap. Unless you live in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, I'm fairly sure that there will be someone witha lathe within a few miles of you. If they have a lathe, they will have a vernier caliper gauge which will be all the measuring kit they need. Pretty much any type of aluminium alloy will do the job, maybe even stainless steel if you can't obtain any ally. Simple job, once you have a lathe.

Adding length won’t move the cassette and disc out to the right place relative to the end of the locknuts though.

No length being added to anything, just measure up and machine the spacers to the correct length for each side. Make one spacer per side and get rid of any ones already there that are too short

tom_howard

Is the axle fully tight/the right length? My 135mm rear end looks to accept a boost hub, but when the axle is tight, and all the threads are screwed in, its fine.

JBA

According to this review Mondraker had their own wheels to fit the 157mm rear end.

Hope, SRAM and i9 make 157mm rear hubs but they are expensive.

The Rookie

steve_sordy wrote:

The Rookie wrote:

steve_sordy wrote:

Do you know anyone with a lathe? If not use Mr Google.
It will not be hard to make a pair of spacers to fill the gap. Unless you live in a tiny village in the middle of nowhere, I'm fairly sure that there will be someone witha lathe within a few miles of you. If they have a lathe, they will have a vernier caliper gauge which will be all the measuring kit they need. Pretty much any type of aluminium alloy will do the job, maybe even stainless steel if you can't obtain any ally. Simple job, once you have a lathe.

Adding length won’t move the cassette and disc out to the right place relative to the end of the locknuts though.

No length being added to anything, just measure up and machine the spacers to the correct length for each side. Make one spacer per side and get rid of any ones already there that are too short

Well yeah, to get a 148 to 157 you need to add 4.5mm in axle length to each side, but as the disc and cassette are located relative to the frame they will be 4.5mm further in from the frame than intended. You can space the disc by 4.5mm using linger bolts, but not the freehub.

steve_sordy

The Rookie wrote:

..........

Well yeah, to get a 148 to 157 you need to add 4.5mm in axle length to each side, but as the disc and cassette are located relative to the frame they will be 4.5mm further in from the frame than intended. You can space the disc by 4.5mm using linger bolts, but not the freehub.

OK, thanks for the helpful explanation. That implies that the wheel has the freehub in a different place to the centre line of the rim, than does a wheel designed for a 148 axle length. Is it possible for the OP get his wheel re-spoked to deal with this?

The Rookie

The point of wider axles is to increase the spoke angle for improved wheel strength, so the spoke flanges have to move out, so yes the disc and freehub are moved out further from the centreline. He’d have to get a new hub and new spokes, so it would be cheaper to get a new wheel and return/sell the one he has really.

bobbydigital

That's what I was saying up top.

The hub from what I can tell is a 142 with 148 spacers.
So it would be a 142mm hub that would need to be spaced out by 15mm to reach 157mm to fit the mondraker, so 7.5mm which would mean the disc mount and freehub were miles away from where they needed to be.

Maybe I could run a smaller spacer on the drive side and redish the wheel, then run a huge brake mount spacer but honestly steel ht is better and the Mondraker was just a little side project.

steve_sordy

Every day is a learning day!

If I'm lucky!

The Rookie

Bobbydigital wrote:

The hub from what I can tell is a 142 with 148 spacers.

No, for the same reason 148 can’t be made into a 157.

The only widths that use the same hub body are 135 and 142 as the 135 ends on the inside face of the dropouts while 142 goes into recesses inside the dropout.