Less than four month old wheels seizing up??

2»

Comments

  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Right. This is appears to be yet another thing where a manufacturer has about a million and one ways of doing things, instead of sticking to one method and keeping it simple. I found some stuff that suggested that you can get the end caps off with a couple of allen keys, except that doesn't work because none fit.

    After some faffing around, I managed to (accidentally) remove one of the large protective covers. Once this was off I saw that the bearings are not cup and cone, they are (what looks like) sealed cartridge bearings.

    What I've also found is that if I loosen the locknut on the adjustment side, and loosen it a tad then it starts moving freely again. If I undo it a lot, so the axle can move in and out, and use my hands to push the axle against the bearings it turns freely. Therefore my supposition is that the problem is that it merely needed adjusting. Therefore I have adjusted so that it moves freely, and tightened the locknut up again. Now the wheel spins freely, and (as far as I can tell) there is no play either.

    I think it is sorted.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I told you they are cartridge bearings. You have not spotted the bearing preload adjustment. on the non drive side there is a grub screw. Once everything is together and the end caps done up tight, loosen the grub screw and undo the preload adjuster until there is just no play.

    You have it under control apparantly....
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    I told you they are cartridge bearings. You have not spotted the bearing preload adjustment. on the non drive side there is a grub screw. Once everything is together and the end caps done up tight, loosen the grub screw and undo the preload adjuster until there is just no play.

    You have it under control apparantly....

    Yes you did. You are also only one person out of many who has dished out info in this thread. Also, you started going on about freehubs, and "drive sides", which is a bit odd considering it's a front wheel I'm talking about.

    And if I haven't spotted it, then what was what that I just said I adjusted that fixed it then.....?
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Also, for the record you are wrong about the warranty/bearing thing. It matters not what a manufacturer thinks they can get away with covering, what matters is what the law says. And the law says that products must last a reasonable amount of time - and <4 months for a wheel bearing is not reasonable in anybody's book. But since there doesn't actually appear to be anything wrong with the bearing that is academic.
  • Malcolm, I wouldn't waste your bandwidth on this one.
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Malcolm, I wouldn't waste your bandwidth on this one.

    Coming from someone who started making nonsensical posts in my other thread.......
  • If you get it, you get it. It was a reference to the Instagram obsessed sports people (not saying you are) who constantly use the # 'outside is free'. Which you've just discovered in the case of cycling: it ain't.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Bungle I thought you were on about a rear wheel. To be honest by the time I read the thread before replying front had turned to rear wheel. Also the bearing preload should not self adjust to be tighter. The preload adjuster has to be left unsecure for that. On fitting the wheels bearing prleoad has to be set. You do that with the wheel clamped in the bike. That is always the case for campagnolo/fulcrum/zipp/miche hubs and other with bearing preload. It is not set properly at the factory as Q/R pressure alters the preload. It has to be set then properly secured by the wheel fitter. Did you do this, probably not.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    Bungle I thought you were on about a rear wheel. To be honest by the time I read the thread before replying front had turned to rear wheel. Also the bearing preload should not self adjust to be tighter. The preload adjuster has to be left unsecure for that. On fitting the wheels bearing prleoad has to be set. You do that with the wheel clamped in the bike. That is always the case for campagnolo/fulcrum/zipp/miche hubs and other with bearing preload. It is not set properly at the factory as Q/R pressure alters the preload. It has to be set then properly secured by the wheel fitter. Did you do this, probably not.

    Are you sure you are not making this more complicated than it needs to be? If this were the case then how come there is next to no information about it out there? How come I was told by someone earlier that dealing with Fulcrum hubs was easy..or words to that effect. And why would a QR change the tightness of the preload? Surely once it's set and tight it's tight and can't move?

    What I know is this: before, the wheel was not spinning properly, and now it is. It seems fixed to me.
  • SarahS
    SarahS Posts: 15
    Yaaaay bungle fixed the problem despite himself.

    Well done babes, most things in life are easy if you have a go, sometimes a tantrum first isnt necescarry either.

    will you be attaching it to your bike and going for a ride? i had a dirty ride this morning and feel great now.

    Sxx
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    shaky.gif
  • bungle73
    bungle73 Posts: 758
    SarahS wrote:
    Yaif you have a go, sometimes a tantrum first isnt necescarry either.

    I did no such thing..................
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    Still not sure whether the whole Bungle thing is a wind-up.........
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    I think we are well into Inception territory now.

    It's all a dream.

    Bungle, Sarah, Trump and Brexit are all part of a really weird dream.