BB30 reinstall

Bobblehatboy1975

Hello

I want to remove and reinstall the same BB30 bearing, see bearing in link below.
http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/ch-6806-l ... nduro.html

Does anyone know which is the best tool to use?

craigus89

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... rvice-bb30

Some of the tools are expensive, you might be better getting your LBS to do it. If you are handy with a spanner then you might be able to DIY your own tools out of threaded rods and nuts. Do some googling if you want to go that route, there are lots of options.

figbat

I did my BB30 the bodge way. I tapped out the bearings using a screwdriver and hammer and then drifted the new ones in using the old bearing to drive it into place. Took my time, made sure it went in as square as my eye could determine and all has been fine since. It's the same way I've done motorcycle wheel bearings.

I now have a bearing press tool for headsets and BBs that I would probably use, since I have it.

keef66

Why do you want to remove then reinstall the same bearings? Are you trying to fix a creak or are you having the frame resprayed or similar?

Or have I read that wrong?

I only ask because some of the extraction techniques aren't very bearing friendly, assuming you're replacing them.

964cup

Use one of these: https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Unior- ... -Tool/FKPD

Much kinder to the bearing and the frame. Ideally you need a proper press (a headset press works well, with the right mandrels) for installation, but you can also just use some threaded bar and some big washers. Some care is needed if using the old bearings as a mandrel since if the bearing is at all recessed in the frame the old bearing can end up getting stuck; also if you're drifting the bearing (in or out) you need to be very careful about how you support the frame.

Don't forget that most BB30 will have a snap-ring installed behind the bearing as the back-stop. Watch out for this if you're drifting the bearing out, to make sure you drift the bearing and don't try to drift the snap-ring (which will just bugger it up). There's not normally any need to change the snap-rings, so if you're replacing the bearings you can just use any decent 6806 without the need to buy a BB30 kit (which will include snap-rings and shims for setting preload and crank-arm distance).

Bobblehatboy1975

keef66 wrote:

Why do you want to remove then reinstall the same bearings? Are you trying to fix a creak or are you having the frame resprayed or similar?

Or have I read that wrong?

I only ask because some of the extraction techniques aren't very bearing friendly, assuming you're replacing them.

I want to fix a creak, I know the tapping it out can damage the bearing. So I'm looking into less destructive options.

craigus89

Cannondale?

Bobblehatboy1975

Craigus89 wrote:

Cannondale?

I have a Kyklos featherweight frame Sram Red grouset

arlowood

Bobblehatboy1975 wrote:

keef66 wrote:

Why do you want to remove then reinstall the same bearings? Are you trying to fix a creak or are you having the frame resprayed or similar?

Or have I read that wrong?

I only ask because some of the extraction techniques aren't very bearing friendly, assuming you're replacing them.

I want to fix a creak, I know the tapping it out can damage the bearing. So I'm looking into less destructive options.

Why not bite the bullet and replace the creaking bearings with this

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Wheels ... ranks/EM24

You know it makes sense

The above assumes you're running a Shimano chainset. You can get versions for other chainsets

keef66

If it's creaking they may tap out quite easily...

You going to use Loctite when you stick them back in?

figbat

Sorry, I assumed “same” bearings meant the same type, not the same actual ones. If you’re having them out why not put new in anyway? Or go the conversion route.

That said, my Cannondale no longer creaks after the above-mentioned bodgery.

kentphil

I had a creaky bb30 on my caadx a while back. I took the cranks off, but not the bearings and re-greased all exposed parts which stopped the creaking. I put a post on here about doing this.

Edit: here's a link to the post;
viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13063959&p=19864558#p19864558

Bumo_b

Got an FSA adaptor kit and changed to hollowtech. Couldn't be ar*ed with chasing creaks regularly. Never had an issue since!