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Waterproof

Yeti sb5Yeti sb5 Posts: 3
edited December 2018 in MTB beginners
My endurance mt500 jacket has lost it waterproofing, what’s the best way to get it back ?

Posts

  • xmas = new one
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,626
    Wash it with Nikwax or Granger's and all will be good again.
    It's a good idea to run the washing machine empty on a hot cycle first to get rid of any detergent or fabric conditioner that may be in the drum or pipework.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • Try this:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikwax-Tech-Wa ... s_sp_3_vtp

    I use it on my softshells. It does help but a new jacket is always preferable!
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 1,990
    Nikwax Tec Wash, followed by Nikwax TX Direct is the top of the range stuff. I have used them both and they are good but expensive. Tesco do a 1 litre bottle of each in one pack that has been the cheapest I have found.

    But Mountain Warehouse's Wash 'n Proof does a good job too, and I can't tell the difference. The Nikwax separate treatments may be better if your stuff is really sweaty and mucky. Wash 'n Proof is also cheaper to use and can often be found on offer in Mountain Warehouse stores. The deals can be 2 for 1, or 50% off with any purchase over £10, it varies. It is usually found on the counter where you pay.

    Frequently I wash my waterproof or windproof kit in the washing machine without any cleaner of any description in there never use detergent). It gets the mud and sweat off and keeps them clean. It does not seem to degrade the DMR coating. It is important to keep the fabric clean or the breathability cannot work.

    Whatever treatment you decide upon, always tumble dry at a low heat for the absolute best performance. The heat activates the DMR coating a lot better.
  • sniper68sniper68 Posts: 2,899
    Nikwax Tec Wash, followed by Nikwax TX Direct is the top of the range stuff. I have used them both and they are good but expensive. Tesco do a 1 litre bottle of each in one pack that has been the cheapest I have found.
    A box of pure soap flakes is about 80p and will do dozens of washes...that's basically what "Tech"wash is but in liquid form :wink: You only need about a tablespoon full!
    Sometimes all that's needed is a wash then the DWR rejuvenating with heat...see below.I washed MTB jackets three times a year but only reproofed every Two.I have a 15 year old Berghaus 3-layer Gortex walking Jacket that has never needed reproofing,just a wash in pure soap flakes every couple of years and then an iron 8)
    Whatever treatment you decide upon, always tumble dry at a low heat for the absolute best performance. The heat activates the DMR coating a lot better.
    No.no,no,no no!
    Always check the label.Heat is needed but always apply heat as per label!!!I have a Jacket that requires tumble drying and two that require a warm iron.A jacket that requires ironing to rejuvenate the DWR could be ruined by Tumble-drying and Vice-versa!If a waterproof has the "do not tumble dry" icon then you can be pretty sure a tumble dry will do it no good.
  • steve_sordysteve_sordy Posts: 1,990
    sniper68 wrote:
    .........
    Whatever treatment you decide upon, always tumble dry at a low heat for the absolute best performance. The heat activates the DMR coating a lot better.
    No.no,no,no no!
    Always check the label.Heat is needed but always apply heat as per label!!!I have a Jacket that requires tumble drying and two that require a warm iron.A jacket that requires ironing to rejuvenate the DWR could be ruined by Tumble-drying and Vice-versa!If a waterproof has the "do not tumble dry" icon then you can be pretty sure a tumble dry will do it no good.

    Fair enough, I was talking from personal experience.
  • Watch out for free samples of Nikwax on their web quiz:
    https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/webquiz/index.php

    The samples change, so it might not be what you want, but worth keeping an eye on, all for the sake of answering a few questions
  • keef66keef66 Posts: 13,286
    Croptonboy wrote:
    Watch out for free samples of Nikwax on their web quiz:
    https://www.nikwax.com/en-gb/webquiz/index.php

    The samples change, so it might not be what you want, but worth keeping an eye on, all for the sake of answering a few questions

    Good tip! I'll keep my eye on this. Mind you, looking at their entire bewildering product range it might be a while before the samples are something I might actually use...
    I just found a sample of the TX Direct in the bottom of my cycling tat basket; must've got it in a post-ride goody bag
  • Cheers, I will try them .
  • nozzacnozzac Posts: 408
    To be honest, if a membrane based jacket has really lost it's waterproofness - ie. it's actually letting in water, through the fabric itself, then no amount of reproofing with Nikwax or other DWR substitutes will make it waterproof again.

    These 3 layer fabrics have the waterproof/breathable membrane sandwiched between two fabrics - an inner one and the face fabric. Since they can only breath properly when the face fabric is not saturated, they coat the face fabric with a supposedly durable water resistant treatment) which is repellent enough to cause water to form beads instead of soaking into the face fabric (aka "wetting out"). But even with a fully wetted out face fabric, the membrane should still be fully waterproof (but as sweaty as a bin liner). Once the membrane fails, then that's it for the jacket and the best you can do is to make it bit more water resistant - showerproof at best.

    So the first thing is to check if the membrane really has failed or whether just so dirty or contaminated that it's wetting out and so not breathing and it's actually sweat making you wet. Standing under a shower for 20 mins should tell you that. So wash in pure soap or Nikwax wash and rinse a couple of times. Then a warm iron or tumble dry is usually enough to rejuvinate the DWR, assuming the DWR is PFC based. If it's not then a new DWR may need to added - Nikwax is sort of OK but something like Fabric Guard 303 is way better, if you don't mind poisoning the environment.

    if the membrane is still intact then you should end up with a jacket that beads nicely and is fully waterproof. But if the membrane has degraded then it's toast and it will bead under the tap OK but will let water through in real use and at that point you need to buy a new one. It normally takes a few years for this to happen with quality membranes like Goretex.
  • I prefer the Patagonia Hyudini, idk if that is how you spell it but it weighs nothing and rejects all rain!
  • JBAJBA Posts: 2,626
    That’s very nice, but the question was how to reproof an MT500 jacket.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Bird Zero Mk1 ¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
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