I have a creak
marcarm
Posts: 134
Ah yes, the lesser known "I have a creak" speech
Seems ot be coming from the headset area, I have just this minute taken the forks out, cleaned everywhere and re-greased and replaced. I have also cleaned and re-greased the stem and top cap bolts, yet my creak remains.
It seems to happen at random, when stationary it is when steering but when riding it can happen anytime.
What else can I check?
Admittedly I didn't remove the headset, just the 2 bits from the top that come out anyway and I cleaned the bottom without removing (I forget what each part is called). I also greased around the crown race on the forks.
Thank you
Seems ot be coming from the headset area, I have just this minute taken the forks out, cleaned everywhere and re-greased and replaced. I have also cleaned and re-greased the stem and top cap bolts, yet my creak remains.
It seems to happen at random, when stationary it is when steering but when riding it can happen anytime.
What else can I check?
Admittedly I didn't remove the headset, just the 2 bits from the top that come out anyway and I cleaned the bottom without removing (I forget what each part is called). I also greased around the crown race on the forks.
Thank you
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Comments
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Maybe start on the rest of the headset.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Could be -
- fork crown
- headset
- stem
- bottom bracket
- seat clamp
I had a headset / fork creek for months ... turned out to be the seat clamp needed tightening up slightly! The noise travels through the frame ... it's not always what you think.0 -
I had a creak for a while, turned out to be a cracked frame, so check everything!!0
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Is it a loose ball headset or cartridge bearing?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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So this morning I have spent some time on my bike.
I have discovered that the star nut was broken, I think the previous owner may have tightened it too much, so I installed a new one. Thinking this was the cause of my problems I reassembled everything and the noise is still there.
So, in total I have replaced the star nut, used new spacers, cleaned and re-greased all parts of the headset, removed and cleaned all bolts of the stem clamp and bars clamp, and tightened every single bolt I can see.
I have checked the frame for damage as well and cannot see any visible cracks.
I can replicate the noise considerably when riding by rocking the bike side to side, there is no play in the wheels, no play in the headset at all. The forks have just been to the shop for a recall fix on them.
So what's next? Apart from taking it to the shop and getting them to sort it? New headset bearings?
I will say it is more of a clicking noise, but some times it is worse than others. There doesnt seem to be a pattern to it ie when the bars pass a certain point.0 -
Creaks happen. They are often not eminating from where you initially believe they are either.0
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This may sound daft! but I had a creak from the front end?? it ended up being the brake, I slackened the calliper mount bolts and then held the brake lever while I re tightened the bolts and that did it.0
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marcarm wrote:Seems ot be coming from the headset area,cooldad wrote:Maybe start on the rest of the headset.The Rookie wrote:Is it a loose ball headset or cartridge bearing?marcarm wrote:...New headset bearings?
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So what sort of headset is it?
And as bearings are the only thing not done...I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
gomezz wrote:This may sound daft! but I had a creak from the front end?? it ended up being the brake, I slackened the calliper mount bolts and then held the brake lever while I re tightened the bolts and that did it.
It should be writ large to never assume the source of a creak based wholly upon where you think it is coming from. The source could be from any material contact point so if you've eliminated the obvious and it still creaks then start looking elsewhere.0 -
cooldad wrote:marcarm wrote:Seems ot be coming from the headset area,cooldad wrote:Maybe start on the rest of the headset.The Rookie wrote:Is it a loose ball headset or cartridge bearing?marcarm wrote:...New headset bearings?
...
So what sort of headset is it?
And as bearings are the only thing not done...
I don't know the type of headset, I'm not too au fait with new MTB technology. It is a 2018 Specialized Enduro Elite with carbon frame.
Believe it is cartridge bearings, the bottom comes in 2 pieces and the top in 2 pieces also with a top cap as well.0 -
The bearings should have codes on them, check, get new decent ones and see.
If it is the bearings, your greasing the outside isn't going to do anything.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Thanks, I'll have a look next time I take it apart0
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Be careful when greasing the headset bearings.
I put the bike in the workstand, removed the top cap bolt and slackened the stem clamp bolts. I very carefully removed the bar and twisted it out of the way. I then ensured that all the spacers were in the same order as they were in use. I turned to see what state the grease was in.....
And the whole front of the bike fell off! :shock:0 -
Are you making sure you torque the bolts up correctly.“Life has been unfaithful
And it all promised so so much”
Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 20090 -
A torque meter is next on the list, but they are all tight without being too tight.
I have given them a quarter turn to make sure, but I don;t want to got too tight in case I shear something0 -
Press fit bottom bracket?
If it’s new can you take it back to the shop?0 -
I had a headset bearing creak, the cartridge wasn't tight in the cup, some bearing lock fixed that.
You 'greased the headset bearings' yet don't know what headset you have? What did you actually apply grease to?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I got in touch with Specialized and they told me I have this:
I removed all the pieces from the frame, cleaned and greased and then reinserted and built it all back up again. Clicking sound is still there.
So my next plan at the weekend, is to remove each bearing in turn and rebuild, then test to see if the clicking sound is still there. If not, I know which bearing it is and can replace accordingly.
If the clicking is still there both times, I can be pretty certain it is coming from elsewhere.0 -
Threaded BB, and it's a 2018 model bought 2nd hand0
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Sticking grease on the outside of cartridge bearings does nothing.
You either need to remove the covers and grease inside. Or get new ones.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
That's what I'm going to try and eliminate next time I work on it.
I do get the feeling it is those as I think I've checked everything else apart from the spokes.0 -
Forgot to say thanks for the helps guys0
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Ok, I have spent the last 2.5 hours on this and still no closer to a solution.
I have regreased the bearings after removing the top, and re-assembled the bike leaving some parts out and the noise still remained.
I HAVE noticed that the noise is a lot worse when I am sat on the bike, as opposed to straddling it, which has lead me to check for any cracks or damage, of which I cannot see any, but of course that does not mean it does not exist. Maybe it is because there is stress going through the frame?
I found a couple of loose bolts, on the downtube protector but have cleaned underneath and replaced and still nothing.
I have taken a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reYmdi-wiBY sat down
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHcJ3ojFjq0 straddling
I would also say that those videos were not moving, so when pedalling and throwing the bike side to side the noise is there in or out of the saddle, as I just had the thought it could be the seat rails as that was the difference between the videos.
Any ideas before I get it booked in? I'm really hoping it's not the frame but that's looking to be the only cause now.0 -
marcarm wrote:I removed all the pieces from the frame, cleaned and greased and then reinserted and built it all back up again. Clicking sound is still there.
Are both cartridges snug in their housings, any play and they will click.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I did pop the top of the bearings and added more grease into them with no joy, no improvement on the noise.
I believe they are snug, there certainly isn't any play in the forks at all. How can I check they are snug?0 -
Just seen a suggestion it could be where the stanchions are pressfit into the crown, as this seems to be a problem on Pikes.
Suggested course of action is to get some loctite 290 and drip some of that in and leave it for 48 hours to fill any gaps.
just researching into whether this is a good idea or not0 -
I know you have tried all sorts, but could it be a simple as a cable rubbing or knocking on the frame when you turn the bar. Just a thought.0
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I have checked cables, doesn't sound like cables knocking.
I turned the bike upside down, stood on the bars and rotated the forks and the noise was there so can't be the cables I dont think0 -
Just to update, I took it to the bike shop that did the recall on my forks, and they whipped the fork out and stuck it in the vice and confirmed it is the steerer/crown where the noise is coming from.
Should be able to get it sorted under warranty so they are contacting Ohlins to get it all sorted.
Maybe a silent bike is not too far away0 -
Good job you spotted that. It could have been nasty if that had let go when landing after a jump!
Persistence wins out!0