Caadx tigra advice

Mavers

Hi

Picking up a caadx tigra on the cycle to work scheme for a winter commuter.

1. Any recommendation for mudguards that will fit this bike.. was thinking chromoplastics, but googling around it seems that it is a bit fiddly to install. If it's worth getting my LBS to do it, I don't mind... But would rather do it myself.

2. Bike comes with some rapid robs schwalbe tyres that I'm looking to get rid.
Bike will be used for a 8 mile London commute on roads. What size tyre is recommended... 28mm seem very popular (continental 4 seasons). Happy to consider alternatives!

Thanks

andy9964

You'll probably need one of these if there isn't one fitted, for the rear guard upper mount.

https://goo.gl/images/pcxQLN

SKS Bluemels did a good job on my 2015 model, and I'd recommend some protective tape where the bottom of the rear guard rubs on the chain stays, it can cut into the paint. Either that or trim a couple of mm off with a stanley knife
32mm Gatorskins are surprisingly comfortable, but probably not as grippy as 4 Seasons

thistle_

Mavers wrote:

Picking up a caadx tigra on the cycle to work scheme for a winter commuter.

1. Any recommendation for mudguards that will fit this bike.. was thinking chromoplastics, but googling around it seems that it is a bit fiddly to install. If it's worth getting my LBS to do it, I don't mind... But would rather do it myself.

I've got a CAAD12 disc and find the raceblade XLs work well (The CAAD12 doesn't have mudguard mounts).

Agree with Mathers about taping the frame where they might rub - mine scratched the thin paint off the frame after only a couple of rides.

keef66

thistle (MBNW) wrote:

Agree with Mathers about taping the frame where they might rub - mine scratched the thin paint off the frame after only a couple of rides.

Same's happened on my alu winter bike; it's taken 10 years but there's quite extensive surface corrosion / paint loss now around the insides of the chainstays and the rear of the BB shell. The rest of the paintwork's immaculate so I'm wishing I'd had the foresight to stick some helicopter tape down there before the guards went on.

kingdav

I have a 2017 caadx that I'm fitting some mudguards to this afternoon. For, in part, colour scheme reasons I've gone for SKS Bluemels Stingray in "blazing red", I wanted black stays for stealth and then thought the red accents might suit my frame. I'll let you know how I get on.
https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/sks_blueme ... t-ID_72994

Andy9964 wrote:

You'll probably need one of these if there isn't one fitted, for the rear guard upper mount.

I had to buy one of those as I bought the caadx used and it didn't come with it.

I run 32mm 4 seasons on a 14 mile each way London commute, they are good but I do find myself wondering if 28mm might be a better compromise.

Mavers

Thanks for the tips on the mudguards, definitely something I would have missed out on. Fortunately I do have the rear guard upper mount.

@kingdav any reason behind the regret of going wider?

kingdav

Just when I first got on the bike, the wheels somehow seemed a tiny bit draggy. This is coming off my Sunday best colnago and my allez both running 25mm. As I've got used to the 32s I'm actually really enjoying the caadx and it feels fast now, not sure if that is real or not. I've always kept up with mates and still get the odd PB on familiar segments. I'd like to try it on 28mm next time and having 2 sets of wheels, I guess I can do it back to back when I get round to it. I have off road tyres on the spare set right now.

kingdav

The SKS Bluemels install went as well as could be expected, certainly no harder than any previous install I've done.

I think the last major change for the CAADX frameset came in with the 2017 model year so my 2017 Apex1 experience should match any other 2017+ install.

Things I used that didn't come in the pack...
1. Several different 4mm allen keys. Most useful was probably quite a short ikea freebie to get into the tighter spots
2. 8mm spanner for nut tightening.
3. power drill and bit. There isn't a bridge or boss between the chainstays on a 2017+ CAADX, there is a boss a little way up the seat tube though so I drilled a hole (maybe 6mm) in the rear guard to allow a bolt to pass through and into that socket.
4. M6 bolt. The front guard needs an M6 bolt about 12mm long to attach it to the rear of the steerer where the brake caliper mounting bolt would hold it on a rim-brake bike. I didn't have one short enough so I used a couple of the black stay mount spacers that come with the guards to allow me to use the longer one I had and will swap it out when I get round to buying a shorter bolt.
5. Cable cutters. I used some birzman cable and housing cutters to cut the stays down to size. I've done this before when fitting bluemels and it allows me to cut them in situ once the guards are in place and adjusted. It might be ruining the cutters, but they've held up well so far. It needs a lot of force but still seems less faff than using a hack saw as recommended in the SKS instructions.
6. Grease for the bolts going into the frame.

veronese68

Different bike, but I’m running 32mm Vittoria Voyager Hyper and have never felt the tyres were slowing me down. Been glad of them when I hit a pothole or the occasional gravel foray. When it was dry I was happy riding trails across Wimbledon Common on them.

the_rover

I use 28mm GP4s on my caadx and have rsp ( Raleigh ) mud guards.
The shop fitted them along with a rack which meant they used some small spacers but it looks great and the mud guards are pretty much silent. Ie, no rattles!
I’ll try to sort a Photo tonight but you’d find it some of my posts.

Edit.

Look through this thread for a photo.

Cheers.

viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=13087000

Mavers

@kingdav do you have any close up views on the modifications (point 3). I'm a little surprised that mudguards don't fit as standard...!

Will look into the other tyres mentioned. Happy to use these tyres for a few weeks and get the mudguards and tyres changed at the same time.

kingdav

Ahh, a bit of drilling and fettling is normal on mudguards. To be fair to the mudguards, it's the bike that's being a bit weird in my opinion. An option would be to attach the mudguard using the pre-drilled hole, but then you'd be leaving part of the seat tube and BB uncovered, though you would get the guard coming down further at the rear to the benefit of those behind you.

I rode to work and then to the dentist and back this morning with no rubs or rattles, all good.

keef66

I find a Dremel with a cutting disc the best way to trim the stays in-situ once you've fine-tuned the fit / clearances. Just need a sheet of something to protect the bike from the shower of sparks!

wolfsbane2k

keef66 wrote:

I find a Dremel with a cutting disc the best way to trim the stays in-situ once you've fine-tuned the fit / clearances. Just need a sheet of something to protect the bike from the shower of sparks!

I second this - it's how I've done mine, and will do the next 2 sets...

kingdav

Nice idea, will dremel next time.

Mavers

UPDATE

Wandered into Evans last week and picked up some 4 seasons 28mm tyres and sks mudguards. They were offering free installation, so was happy to leave my bike there. Next day I get a call saying the mudguards would not fit, but they were happy to install some removable SKS Race Blade Pros, which I agreed to.

As I'm sure you are all aware, weather has been pretty awful this week. Must say I'm very happy, was a bit sceptical of the mudguards, but they are definitely a great addition. Also very happy with switching the 28mm 4 seasons, bike is now a completely different animal to ride on.

Now need to think about some overshoes!

Thank you all for the advice, has been very helpful.