Avid Juicy 3 Brakes - Bleeding

nbuuifx
nbuuifx Posts: 302
edited October 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
I have a boardman MTB with Avid Juicy 3 brakes. Last week I noticed that the front brake lever seemed to be pulling further in before the brakes started to grip. They worked OK though.

Today though, pulling the lever all the way back wouldn't stop the bike. Today was wet but they did seem worse. When the bike is still if I apply the brakes they will hold the bike and stop me from turning the wheel but the lever does come in further than before - basically back to the grip.

There is still some meat left on the pads, a couple of mm.

Am I correct that they need bleeding? Any particular advice for bleeding these?

Comments

  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    I have never had the pleasure of those brakes, but it sounds like what normally happens as pads wear. There will be some sort of lever adjustment, look for a small Allen screw on the knuckle of the lever, or maybe a knurled wheel. That will allow you to move the lever in towards the bars or away (what you want). If in doubt Google "Avid Juicy 3 lever adjust".

    Brakes only need bleeding when there is air in the system. As a test, do the brakes get better if you pump the lever rapidly, and then they fade quickly when you stop pumping?
  • david7m
    david7m Posts: 636
    I'd go new pads unless they feel spongy. Pads £10 V buying the bleed kit and needing pads soon anyway.
    Dave
  • billycool
    billycool Posts: 833
    Juicy 3's and Juicy 5's are a b*all ache to bleed. If you want to do it, then get an Epic bleed kit. Cost effective and work with other brakes as well.

    Both my bikes now have Shimano SLX and XT. They are easier to bleed and changing pads is a doddle. They also use mineral oil and not DOT 4/5.

    I'd suggest new pads first and also clean the rotors. If your rotors are worn, than can cause excessive lever travel.

    I had Juicy 5's but I'm pretty sure 3's aren't that adjustable. They might just be tired/worn and for £25-£30 you can get a sensible Shimano Deore brake. I'm glad I made the change.

    Hope you get it sorted.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • nbuuifx
    nbuuifx Posts: 302
    Well I got a set of 4 sintered brake pads. I've fitted the front so far. It was a pain to fit them, the pistons didn't push back much. I managed after a bit of a struggle and they are in but they now rub slightly. I went for a 12km ride over the local country park and they work great, stopping power is much improved but they are still rubbing. If I pick the wheel up and give it a good spin it will only turn a quarter turn before stopping.

    I don't think I can get the pistons to go back any more. I'm tempted to open the bleed screw on the lever to allow the pistons to push back easier.

    Is that a good idea or not?

    Any other suggestions?
  • Bleeding avid juicy brakes is a job from hell. Good luck.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    nbuuifx wrote:
    I'm tempted to open the bleed screw on the lever to allow the pistons to push back easier.

    You can do that but be careful not to get any of the brake fluid on your paintwork. DOT fluid is corrosive and strips paint.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    nbuuifx wrote:
    ...... but they are still rubbing. If I pick the wheel up and give it a good spin it will only turn a quarter turn before stopping.

    ..........

    That is many times too much rubbing. :shock:

    Try opening the bleed screw and pushing the pads apart. CAREFULLY! You don't need much.

    But if you just leave it, two things will happen: the problem will go away, and you will get fitter! :)
  • billycool
    billycool Posts: 833
    You can certainly try losing some fluid. Rubbing pads is no fun at all.
    "Ride, crash, replace"