tubeless first time

baz2011uk
baz2011uk Posts: 21
edited October 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
first try at tubeless this evening only done the 1 wheel so far as ran out of time and think i have done it right well its held pressure for the past 4 hrs :D
i did have an issue where air was leaking from the valve area but think my first time of taping was crap so re tapped it up and the air lost was only a slight amount and very slow after that
while doing this i did try this without sealant so decided to add some stans and do the gold sieve and shake it all around the tyre
this stopped the slow leak and has been good since
the rims are alex ex21 tubless ready
i used stans tape and stans standard sealant and stans valves
and fitted maxxis ardent tyres
all using a track pump and the tyres bedded really well
my only question is should of i made sure i had a good dry seal before i used the stans or is using the stans to seal the tiny leak ok
i also wasn't sure how much to add as was getting different amounts when looking online so used 80ml on a 29x2.25 tyres

Comments

  • JGTR
    JGTR Posts: 1,404
    That’s fine, the whole point of Stans is to seal any leaks aswell as and punctures. 80ml is about right, think it’s recommended 90ml for upto 2.4?
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,449
    Looks good to me. Sometimes it can take a while for the tyre to seal. In those circumstances, I put plenty of pressure in and then give the wheel a good shake and lay it on a bucket for the sealant to stay distributed around the whole tyre. Leave it a while and then check the pressure for any loss, then repeat but leave the wheel the other way up on the bucket.

    But without doubt the best way is to put the wheel on the bike and ride it for a short while.
  • billycool
    billycool Posts: 833
    Sounds like you did a good job of it.

    I've recently changed tyres on one of my tubeless setups and it took ages to get everything to bed in and stop losing air. Sometimes that's how it is. I ended up putting in c.80-100ml to get a decent seal - it felt a lot, but with new tyres it was probably about right. I always slosh it around and like Steve, lie the tyre on it's side and then flip it over. I usually inflate up to 50-60psi to get everything bedded in.

    I've never had much success with track pumps. CO2 inflators are an option but I've now got a compressor and it makes things far easier.

    I'm still getting to grips with it and I find that if you rush or cuts corners, it takes longer to put it right.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • Thanks for the input all its still all good now and the ride Into work had me waiting for a pop and a gush of sealent everywhere lol but I was good so will do the other tyre this evening fingers crossed it goes just as good
  • Just done the 2nd tyre and didn't take long at all and managed to get a dry seal as well first still added 90ml stans in took bike for a spin and it feels its made a huge difference to the way the bike feels and rides or is that in my head lol
  • Avoneer
    Avoneer Posts: 525
    Half fill your bath.

    Slowly rotate your wheel around whilst it's dipped in the bath.

    When you find bubbles, remove the wheel and bounce your wheel on that spot like a basket ball for about 5 minutes.

    Dip it back in the bath - should be sealed now.
    "Campagnolo has soul, Shimano has ruthless efficiency and SRAM has yet to acquire mystique. Differentiating between them is a matter of taste"
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,449
    Avoneer wrote:
    Half fill your bath.

    ...............

    My wife would shoot me! I use the water butt outside, or before that, an old washing up bowl. With the bowl you won't get the whole wheel in, but you can get enough in at a time to do the job. It uses a lot less water too.
  • Avoneer
    Avoneer Posts: 525
    Anything where you can dip the wheel in vertically works.

    P.S. I wait for her indoors to go out ;-)
    "Campagnolo has soul, Shimano has ruthless efficiency and SRAM has yet to acquire mystique. Differentiating between them is a matter of taste"
  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,449
    Avoneer wrote:
    ............P.S. I wait for her indoors to go out ;-)

    In that case, don't bother taking the wheels off, just ride up the stairs and put the whole bike in! :lol:
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Depends on your rim, tyre combination.

    I’ve managed to seat a high roller 2 tyre with the valve core in on a mavic ust wheel with a track pump.

    Those air shots are good though if anyone has difficulty inflating a tyre.
  • I have some RF rims with a 30mm internal width.Teamed with Maxxis highroller & a dhr they
    went up with just with the track pump.Did use hot soapy water around the tyre as well
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    The easiest tubeless conversion I have done was on my old Stumpjumper using Specialized rim strips and Specialized Purgatory and Ground Control tyres.
    The rim strips are like giant elastic bands. They are quite difficult to fit but once they are on the rim they are a perfect fit and the tyres went up with a track pump.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • Just done mine tonight, far easier than I thought, tried a dry run to pop the beads in place, with valve core removed, was not having it, anyway, bobbed in some sealant and worked a treat. This was with Mavic rims, Continental mountain King tyres, I used some gorilla tape, 50mm wide but tore down to correct width easily with it being cloth based, worked brilliantly. Used Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex Sealant. With a standard track pump.

    Anyway, am I imagining it but It felt like it rolled/rode easier/nicer???
    First proper ride out tomorrow, will report back 8)