Chain snapped, safe to put it back on...

hairysaddlebags
hairysaddlebags Posts: 17
edited September 2018 in MTB beginners
Or do i need a new one?

I wasn't doing anything extreme, just commuting from work, which is mostly off road but fairly gentle (canal path, some bits of mud etc)

Before it snapped, I noticed the chain was slipping between the gears, does this mean it's stretched and i might need to take a link out?

I'm not much cop at maintenance so worry if i put it back on myself it won't be safe.

Comments

  • From what you say, it sounds like the chain is worn beyond proper use. It will need replacing. But a new chain probably won't run well on the gears. If you have left the chain until it is slipping on the gears then they too are probably well knackered. Assuming that the slipping is not a consequence of poor set up, then the best thing is probably to keep the whole thing running until it just won't. But then you will need a new cassette, chain and probably the front ring(s) as well.

    By the way, which gears was the chain slipping on, the front or the rear? If it was the rear, then you might get away with replacing just the chain and cassette, otherwise the whole lot needs replacing.

    For the future, the chain needs replacing before it starts slipping. You should wear out three chains before needing to replace the cassette. Ring life is a bit harder to predict because some people have three, some two and some just the one. Also, even for those with multiple front gears, they tend to use one more than the other, and other stuff.....

    Buy a chain wear gauge and use it!. For less than a fiver they will save you a fortune.
  • It's only the rear gears slipping and they only started actually slipping today. Although i bought the bike in 2015, I've only actually been using it regularly for the past 6 weeks or so, commuting during the week and fairly tame trails at the weekend. I did take it to cycle republic to get the gears set up correctly (as they weren't always slipping in smoothly) about two weeks ago (I didn't realise that they were just Halfords rebadged at the time).
  • Right, I don't have a chain tool and I'm not 'handy' so I'm not going to do it myself, I'm going to:-

    a) take it to a professional to assess the damage and fix what needs to be fixed.
    b) buy a chain tool for when this happens again
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Buy a chain tool, and a couple of missing links. Chain tool you'll need sooner or later anyway.

    Great little tool, cheap, and took over from my bigger workshop ones.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park ... p-prod7843
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • That is no doubt a very good tool, but for only a few quid more, this one is better because you can do so much more with it. Buy this and you will be able to fix most things that you need to fix on the trail. It will last for ages, I've had mine for over ten years. It has a chain breaker and also a chain hook (never be without one!)

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tope ... prod170986
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I like separate chain tools. And have loads of multools collected over the years.

    Topeak do make decent stuff though, the one I carry is

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tope ... p-prod7340

    I like tiny things.

    Plus a tiny pair of folding pliers, and a couple of Pedros tyre levers. Only tyre levers I haven't managed to snap.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    but the OP is asking if it's safe. Take out the broken link, pop in a quick link and its as strong as it ever was.

    Of course we don't know how worn the drivetrain is but that's besides the point.
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,002
    It's only the rear gears slipping and they only started actually slipping today. Although i bought the bike in 2015, I've only actually been using it regularly for the past 6 weeks or so, commuting during the week and fairly tame trails at the weekend. I did take it to cycle republic to get the gears set up correctly (as they weren't always slipping in smoothly) about two weeks ago (I didn't realise that they were just Halfords rebadged at the time).

    Pretty surprised they didn't pick up on a worn chain and sell you new stuff.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Not sure how worn it can be with only 6 weeks wear ?
  • cougie wrote:
    Not sure how worn it can be with only 6 weeks wear ?

    It was bought in 2015 so not quite brand spanking new.

    If one link has broken, you have over 100 more that might do the same. For the costs involved, I'd just get a new chain.

    You also need to understand if that solves the gear issue or you'll risk damaging another chain.
    "Ride, crash, replace"
  • fenix
    fenix Posts: 5,437
    Multi Tools might seem a good idea but it's often really tricky trying to work with a clumsy weighty bit of kit. I much prefer separate allen keys and a chain breaker tool. Might be slightly heavier/bulkier but its so much easier when you need them.
  • sniper68
    sniper68 Posts: 2,910
    Fenix wrote:
    Multi Tools might seem a good idea but it's often really tricky trying to work with a clumsy weighty bit of kit. I much prefer separate allen keys and a chain breaker tool. Might be slightly heavier/bulkier but its so much easier when you need them.
    I have a chain-breaker on my Topeak Alien2 multi-tool and it does work very well.I still have a separate chain-breaker in my tool kit at home and always use that when fitting a new chain.
  • This is what I carry in my backpack

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/tope ... p-prod2925

    I like it, I like it a lot
  • I'm getting an independent local bike shop to put on a brand new chain and make sure it's all set up correctly for gear changes. I've bought a Topeak basic chain tool (I already have a multi tool) and some spare links so at least I'll be prepared in future.

    Thanks for the advice.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    BillyCool wrote:
    cougie wrote:
    Not sure how worn it can be with only 6 weeks wear ?

    It was bought in 2015 so not quite brand spanking new.

    If one link has broken, you have over 100 more that might do the same. For the costs involved, I'd just get a new chain.

    n.

    We can't see the chain or know its history or know if it is a cheap chain made of cheese so it is hard to say but.....

    Why is meant by chain skipping between gears, is is jumping between 2 sprockets, that is usually incorrect adjustment, if on the same sprocket then is worn.
    . How did it fail, did the pin come out or actual link broke, the latter would tend to indicate wear.

    The low stated mileage seems to go against it being wear, ultimately if in doe buy a new chain, decent one is £10
  • Well it turned out to be mostly due to user error...

    I'd put a cable tie round the frame to hold the cable for my lights, but instead of slipping the cable tie under the gear cable, I'd put it over the top, which obviously stopped it working properly.

    It's a learning experience.
  • 02gf74
    02gf74 Posts: 1,168
    Yes, putting cable tie around the inner gear cable was not going to do the gear shifting any favours but doesn't really explain why the chain broke.

    Was it the link plate breaking or plate separating from the pin.?
  • I'd also been using the gears badly it turned out, using the middle front cog with the smallest back cogs almost all the time.

    With regard to the chain, it was the outer plates that separated from the pin, which was still within the inner bit if that makes sense.

    I've taken the bike out for a two hour ride round Sandwell Valley this morning and all seems to be ok, in fact it's easier now that I've learned to switch to the smallest front cog for the downhill bits, as i can quickly switch back to the middle cog when going back uphill.