New Rider looking for advice on a road bike

JeemyW

Hi,

I'm new to cycling - used to BMX, motocross and cycle for fun back in the day but haven't ridden a bike for 20 years.

Had a holiday at Centre Parcs recently and LOVED being on a bike!

41 and unfit - I used to windsurf but with 2 small kids those days are gone just now. So I decided, I want to start cycling to work!

I've done a bit of research and now looking for some advice and hopefully to buy something from a trusted member here in due course.

Its an 8-mile commute, and we are out in the country. Its 3 miles on the flat, then 5 miles all uphill. The way back will be mostly freewheeling!

So that's my first question, it seems like road bikes have 7 or so gears, but hybrids and mountain bikes have 21-ish. Given I'll be going uphill for such a long period, am I better with lower gearing, or have I misunderstood?

Budget is around the £300-500 mark. I had a look and saw the Ridgeback Velocity or the Carrera Subway 2 were good buys in this range. And that maybe if you bought those you'd want to upgrade the hubs, tyres or saddle pretty swiftly.

But it seems much more sensible to buy nearly-new from somebody - I saw an awesome-looking Principia here which I just missed out on by a day - the owner had built it and then found it didn't suit.

My other questions and queries:

- I never got used to drop handlebars on what we used to call "racers". But I understand now its faster for road, these days the brakes have "drops" (if I have the right word) that you can rest your hands on top, and so I think that's what I want
- although its country roads its 99% decent tarmac. So I probably have less pothole worries than city bikers - but I might be glad of better forks to absorb bumps?
- do I want a road bike or a hybrid?
- I'd maybe like to have one of those chariots to transport a child in one day - do these mount to anything specific? I.e. If I bought the wrong thing would it preclude me ever doing this?
- I'd like to be able to pick up shopping, carry my laptop; so recommendations on good panniers, or other luggage solutions would be great

Some other possibly relevant info

- I already own quite a lot of POC safety gear that I used for landboarding; gloves, shorts, vest & tailbone protector. But I will need a good helmet
- I also have a really good bag, possibly made by Henley or somebody like that, that you can put a suit and a laptop in and then it rolls into a cylinder and sits on your back. I can probably distribute my stuff into that, but ideally I'll want to transport a fairly hefty laptop bag with me in some way.
- I'll be cycling home in the dark 50% of the year, so again recommendations on good lighting gear would be nice
- I think I'd rather not clip my feet into the pedals but can be convinced otherwise

I hope everybody enjoys vicarious shopping as much as I do on boards where I can give advice rather than flying blind!

I am based in East Lothian, so don't have access to many big bike shops although in fact there are several good small ones nearby to my knowledge; Belhaven Bikes just up the road, Mikes Bikes in Haddington, and Law Cycles in North Berwick.

But I don't really want to go to a bike shop to "try things on" without buying from them.

However there will be a little bit of "trying on" or getting advice as I have no idea about frame sizes, ride heights etc. I am 5'10" with a dad build.

Hope you guys have some input.

Cheers,

Jeemy

arlowood

Your post is well into the TLDR region so I hope you get some constructive advice despite this.

Just a couple of points - don't know where you got the idea that road bikes only have 7 gears compared to hybrids which have 21. If that's the case then you've been looking at the wrong bikes for road use.

Drop bars may take a little time to get used to if you're a newbie but in that long run they can work out much more versatile than a flat bar hybrid. You have more options for hand placement and that leads to better comfort levels on longer rides.

With your budget I'd suggest popping into a Decathlon store - you have one not too far away at Hermiston Gate

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/en/stores/s ... 00715.html

Check out the Triban 500 range - this one is within your budget and has 21 gears

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-520- ... 77757.html

Decathlon bikes are well regarded as good starter bikes so you won't go wrong

JeemyW

Sorry. Used to helping people out on pro audio and car maintenance where lots of detail is de derailleur.

Tried to give as much detail as possible.

JeemyW

Thanks for the tip nonetheless; although I think with Scottish weather disc brakes may be safer during late-night drives with blind motorists?

JeemyW

I got the info on the gearing here and here.

I guess I misunderstood a groupset relates to the back sprocket and the front multiplies that. May still have the nomenclature wrong.

BelgianBeerGeek

May be worth shifting to the commuting thread, if that’s the main reason for use. You also don’t let on if you’re a big person or a racing snake. And five miles uphill to work is five miles down home, which is something I wish I had to deal with!
I’d get something cheap and comfortable, eight miles isn’t that far. If you get into it, any cheap old hack can be relegated to pub bike, backup bike or sold on for a few bob.
Best of luck!

sloppyschleckonds

JeemyW wrote:

Thanks for the tip nonetheless; although I think with Scottish weather disc brakes may be safer during late-night drives with blind motorists?

Absolutely nothing will make you safer with motorists.

JeemyW

Well, as a mechanic, tuner and general petrol-head, I think its eeksy-peeksy.

We have a plethora of cyclists out here in East Lothian that like to drive in formation - I am sure this is a topic for a different thread, but if you want to be treated like a car, you shouldn't drive 3 abreast.......

Also when I drive in town and park on the street, I don't expect to open my door to find a cyclist shimmying up the inside of all the cars. I had an argument with a guy when I opened the door and he rode into it - no lights, no reflective gear, sprinting up the nearside of the car queue - I told him if he wanted to do that, it would be an illegal undertaking move and legally he would have to drive up the offside of the car queue to the lights - effectively driving up the middle of the road.

I think that's true...

But I've seen the horror films of both the foolish motorcyclists literally driving into trucks, cars turning right, or bends they cannot navigate (we call them "straight-line heros" here) and the idiot cars simply not noticing well-lit bicyclists or motorbikes - sometimes they don't even notice trucks.....

But I know the roads, and I know the common mistakes. Also, where I live is a huge holiday destination, and a huge wildlife area./. I suspect I will end up at some point:

a) needing to brake because a tourist, bad driver, new left-hand driver or plain boy racer decides to turn without indicating
b) Not wanting to kill a rabbit/deer/badger/kid.

JeemyW

I do remember about 10 years back coming home from a restaurant in the dead of a rainy winter night on a holiday in the north of Scotland. I was driving a Honda NSX. Its a kinda cool-looking car and would annoy any guys with pretensions. It certainly annoyed the BMW driver from Germany who was behind me, didn't know the roads and so decided to follow me closely to intimidate me while not actually driving properly. There was no easy way to let him past, and believe me, I did indicate left a couple times.

When a fully-grown male deer ran out in front of me, I had 3 choices:

- brake and let the guy hammer me in the back
- swerve to avoid the deer and hit the stone walls on either side (at £2k a wheel, not a preferred option).
- just keep going and hope the deer would make it

....I chose option 3, and was about 80% correct. I hugely underestimated how heavy deers are. It was like running headfirst into an elephant! I clipped the stag, it rolled down and *around* the side of the car, crushing the bonnet, wing, front door, back panel and boot. Antlers everywhere!

Equably, it shat itself fairly steadily right down the car.

We were on holiday in a small village. So I limped in about 9pm to the house we'd hired, had to clamber out of the window, avoiding deer-shit, and try to enjoy the rest of the weekend knowing I'd got £8k of damage that nobody was responsible for.

I shoulda let the BMW hammer me up the arse.....

Commensurately, we went out for a puffin-spotting boat trip the next day. The boat captain had a good laugh at my expense, as him and his mates had found the stag a couple hours later, hauled it onto the back of their truck and hacked it to pieces.

He let me drive the boat for a bit, I got to play with his radar, and we had venison for dinner. It didn't make the limp home any happier but it was good respite.

I think we are all guilty of shortcomings on the roads here and there....

craker

JeemyW wrote:

Also when I drive in town and park on the street, I don't expect to open my door to find a cyclist shimmying up the inside of all the cars. I had an argument with a guy when I opened the door and he rode into it - no lights, no reflective gear, sprinting up the nearside of the car queue - I told him if he wanted to do that, it would be an illegal undertaking move and legally he would have to drive up the offside of the car queue to the lights - effectively driving up the middle of the road.

You're on shaky (if not downright mistaken) ground with that one I'm afraid.

eg https://www.quittance.co.uk/help-article/advice-for-cyclists-hit-by-opened-car-doors

Legislation states that "No person shall open, or cause or permit to be opened, any door of a vehicle on a road so as to injure or endanger any person" (The Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 section 105).

You shouldn't expect anything before opening your car door into traffic on either side of you, because you've already checked it's safe to do so, right?

trek_dan

Unless you have to buy new I'd keep a look out for a second hand cyclocross bike, pretty often they come up barely used as people buy them for commuting and never use them. Gives you the versatility to use it for some light offroading too. I'd usually expect to pay 50% of RRP if buying used so £300-500 should buy you a very very decent bike. If your commuting in the dark on unlit roads then I'd budget at least £150 to buy some decent lights - have a look on MTB Batteries or Magic Shine.

JeemyW

You're on shaky (if not downright mistaken) ground with that one I'm afraid.

Not looking to be confrontational, just genuinely interested.

As I perhaps didn't make clear, I was parked on the left hand side of the street. The traffic on the road was at a standstill, queued for a red light. It was dark and of course I checked my mirror, and got out with my head facing backwards - its an innate habit after driving for 20+ years - I didn't see anything, because the cyclist had not only no lights or gear but no helmet, and he just caught me at the wrong point in the blind spot. It wasn't bad or anything, he just had a wobble!

At the time I queried it with my cousin who is an avid cycler and she said it was not legal and you must overtake on the right, which is dangerous if there is traffic flow the other direction, so really you should stay in position.

If cycles are to follow the highway code, behave like, and be treated like a car, then snaking up between the parked cars and the traffic queue on the nearside was technically against the highway code, to my thoughts at the time, as its not a manoeuvre an actual car could perform; they'd be kerb-jumping.

According to the link you posted:

It is therefore the duty of the car driver to take care to look out for any approaching cyclists before opening a car door. He also has a duty to ensure his passengers also take care before opening the door, as cyclists may be undertaking a line of stationary traffic.

That makes it sound like undertaking is a legal manoeuvre. But its not clear whether you have to have a lane to qualify as "undertaking"; so there is a difference between undertaking stationary traffic in the outside lane of a 2-lane road, or at a split, and weaving in and out of, or going up the side of, traffic you are currently sharing a lane with.

I looked into it a bit more and apparently that is called filtering, and it IS legal, but only in that its not specifically forbidden.........but its not recommended to do on the inside.

If you do it and get hit when squeezing through a tight gap I read "there is strong chance of a finding of contributory negligence on the part of the cyclist." In the 2 cases cited (both motorbikes) blame was given equally to the motorist and the biker.

I am sure there are those out there who will know more about this and the Highway code may have changed or updated.

The reason I wouldn't "expect" it as such is that in those particular conditions on a jam-packed narrow street in the dark, I wouldn't ride my bike up the thin gap between the parked cars, as the likelihood of getting bashed is pretty high.

I also found this on an advisory piece about how filtering is completely legal:

In some circumstances, you can even pass on the left. Such 'undertaking' comes with a critical warning: never, ever undertake a long vehicle such as bus or an articulated lorry unless it is completely stationary and will remain so until you are safely past.

If in any doubt, don't attempt to undertake. You will be in the driver's blind spot. If the vehicle moves to the left a little or, even worse, begins a left turn, you may go under its wheels and die. Some lorries even have signs for cyclists on the back nowadays, saying 'Right side' (on the off side) and 'Suicide' (on the near side).

JeemyW

trek_dan wrote:

cyclocross // £150 to buy some decent lights - have a look on MTB Batteries or Magic Shine.

Brilliant thanks. I had never heard the term cyclocross, and would have spent £15 on lights and thought they were all the same.

cookeeemonster

+1 for the Decathlon Tribans. They have just released some new versions too and honestly, you wont get better for your money unless you go 2nd hand...and do a lot of research

lakesluddite

Sorry, not read every syllable of the posts, but have you the option of a Cycle-to-work scheme? Far more bang for your buck due to the repayments being taken before tax. Plus you wouldn't have to pay the price all at once. I started (re-started really) my cycling 'journey' some years ago using this, and I suspect I'm not the only one on here.

JeemyW

Self-employed m8. Sorry for being wordy. I type fast.

photonic69

You'll more likely get a better deal buying cash in the end of season sales than on cycle to work schemes anyway.

Often discounted bikes are not eligiable for C2W or if they are then the shop puts a % back on. The Scheme costs the shop about 10% of the price so if they have discounted stock then they'll lose money on C2W certificates.

Anyway - flat bar roadbike for you with Tiagra groupset and cable disc brakes. Ensure it takes at least 28mm tyres (go for Schwalbe Marathon Plus - very tough commuter tyre) and full mudguards and possibly a pannier rack too if you are carrying laptops and the like.

joe_totale-2

This looks good and meets your criteria, with British Cycling discount in sneaks under £500:

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/ ... d-bike-red

You get a shed load more bike than the Carrera for not much more money.

JeemyW

They look great mate. Plenty options now and have had a good browse of lights too.

JeemyW

Got a few options building now.

Very keen on a second-hand Scott S50; its local-ish to me, comes with 22mm Oxena carbon wheels, SRAM Rival brakes, Sora derailleur. Plus a spare set of 28mm Alexrims for the winter.

Its a 54, and I am 5'10" so I think 54-56 is right for me. Its £495. Having looked into lights/alarms/tracking/helmet I figure I am going to want to spend another £300 minimum on security/safety and it seems much cheaper to get a full built bike than build myself, so I think second-hand is by far the best way to go. Budget is going to be £800 on the road.

There seem to be an infinite amount of Boardman/CBoardman Road/Team Carbon bikes about for £400 second-hand plus trainfare to grab, or £800 new, which would also get me the HYB noted above.

And final option is the B'Twin at £500, or the Scott CR1 20 which would push costs up a bit.

I *really* like the Principia Ellipse and the Specialized CruZ 2014 frames, I'd love to build something with the Ultegra Di2 kit further down the line, which I've seen for a good price, and I like the Campagnolo Scirroco wheels, again seen very cheaply.

But I just can't see a way that building a bike is going to work for my first time, it would take a while, I might need tools, and it would cost more.

If I end up going for the Carrera Subway or Ridgeback Velocity I could pick one up s/h for £150 only, but would soon want to upgrade stuff on it. Whether it would be worthwhile upgrading that is immaterial, as I need one bike on the road all the time, and so I think I'll buy a bike, lights & security kit and then slowly pick up bits to build my ideal bike once I've got a bit of real-world experience, and picking up bargains as I go.

JeemyW

Also Giant Contend 1, Specialized Sirrus and Allez keep popping up, and just now, the Marin Four Corners. All on Sora from memory.

JeemyW

And finally, the Cube Attain. Really glad for any more comments or advice, placed a few snipes on eBay but am definitely going to press the button on something before the week is out!

kirkee

A plus point worth considering- if buying from Halfords, they offer interest free credit and online discounts. Not sure Decathlon offer int free but dont think they do.

JeemyW

No credit for me, sadly. I've been self employed my whole life....no credit cards, house paid in cash, no credit rating at all.

Although Halfords seem to offer decent backup, I'd have to travel to get it and I am a mechanic so I am pretty confident I can maintain and tune.

There seem to be so many good second-hand bikes with only a few miles on them, that buying new seems foolish at present?!

daniel_b

The only caveat with buying second hand, is that you are never quite sure it fits you properly.

There is an element of adjustability you can achieve with fit, in terms of inverting the stem, and fairly cheaply changing the stem out for longer or shorter lengths. In general they range between 50-140mm.

You can also either run an inline or setback seatpost.

I used to run both inline and inverted short stems, but as my flexibility has improved, I can now run a more conventional setup, ie correct orientation stem, longer stems (90-110), and a setback seatpost.

I'm 5ft 10, a big Scott fan, and ride 54's - I have long legs and a short torso, so technically going on height and or inside leg I should be on a 56, but then the reach is too great.
As a result I have a fairly substantial drop from saddle to bars, but that's fine with me.
Smaller frames are lighter too!

The old adage goes that it is easier to make a small frame larger with stems\seatposts etc, then it is to make a too large frame shrink accordingly.

I have seen Decathlon mentioned already, and they are very well regarded, well except for the wheels on the cheaper ones.

I see you mentioned drop bars, but then saw some hybrid's listed - have you decided specifically on one over the other?

JeemyW

Hi Daniel,

I am 99% to close on a Specialized Allez 2017 model with 105/5800 groupset, Selcof bars, tiagra chainset, and axis wheels/calipers. The only small concern is varying reviews of the axis calipers but they are by no means consistent.

Its just serviced and leaves me with plenty of budget for security, helmet and lighting. Its a 54 so I will be sizing up rather than down, the previous owner is my height so pretty confident.

Off my checklist its just missing internal cabling on the top and down-tubes, but it needs no repairs, parts or maintenance.

On a side topic I've been looking at your van thread and will post up in due course if its helpful or even if its not for future people. I build vans for windsurfers, bikers, cyclists and campers so I have a few thoughts......

The drop bars, its not something I have an opinion on for now. Most road bikes have them. I am looking to combine a nice, enjoyable, performance bike with lugging massive amounts of kit about and to be honest it seems immaterial where I put my hands. I am sure whether I start with a flat or drop bar, I'll be acclimatised within a few minutes. A wobble here and there is to be expected....

But on a drop-bar bike I can have combined gear and brake handles, get up the hills fast and being frank I have a little Macbook Air so I think I'll just stop carrying so much crap and be organised. I've got that cool roll-up bag which was specifically designed for cycling.

At least once a week I have to go out in the van and pick up parts from the containers, trimmers or wheel refurbishers, visit painters and providers who are too far for a mike ride, or drop the kids off*, so its not like I'll never drive again; I can move larger stuff in the van when needed. The big laptop is unnecessary to move to- and from- work/home office on a day-to-day.

The only thing I am not confident on is the wheels/tyres provided with the Allez and what I'll get. I know they are Axis 2.0s but whether they take clinchers, tubeless or whatever, or if they take all of the above, i don't know.....

What I do know is its a 25mm tyre as far as I can get it. Was recommended 28mm above, but it will just be suck-and-see and the frame takes higher, the brakes are a weak point so if I want to go 28 I can do it with a brake change.

I am speaking to the seller tomorrow but as far as I gather it this bike will come with Espoir tyres, which are a wire beaded tyre from what I gather, and OEM equipment.

I also gather that I can just swap those for folding tyres, so I will buy spare folders once I know I am right. The last thing I need is a puncture; my wife is seriously ill so if I am required back to look after the kids, I don't have time to fuck about. If I get a puncture it needs to be fixed in a few minutes so I can get back to help her.

I have found my Principia frame for my build, so I'll be building a Di2 Ultegra Principia with summer wheels over the cold period; for now my first priority is a clean, well-specced, reliable build plus lights/security so I can transition from driving everywhere to riding everywhere quick-smart-ish.

I don't see me off-roading or mountain-biking until I get the whole family riding - and the roads here are pretty good - but the occasional pothole will likely make me reconsider the wheels. Not really sure what the difference is on a winter and summer bike right naow.

The backup on this is a Scott S50. Oxena carbon wheels plus a set of Alexrims for winter, whatever "winter" means.

Its on Sora and the upgrades are all low-rent, but the extra 2 wheels, cages, fizik saddle, sram kit etc makes it a different prospect.

For now I think I am onto a good thing with the Allez 2017 E5, tomorrow I should be able to confirm things and get it shipped up.

Thinking Lezyne radar back light, smarthalo alarm/computer, and Linka lock plus chain, and Sherlock in-handle bike tracker. Garmin UT800 front light.

Also will want to change QRs for un-robbable wheel things, I saw DT Swiss skewers where you can remove the lever and leave them blind.

I'll keep an eye out for a set of Campagnolo Bullet, Zonda, Pista or Scirroco suitable to fit this and the Principia build, and go from there; also Mavic Cosmic or Selcof Delta look good.

Finally, I will be picking up a set of the Gipiemme Pista wheels if I can get the orange on a cassette wheel. All our corporate vehicles are black/space grey/orange. So having a bike that fits the colour scheme is nice.

Feeling pretty good about this!

J

JeemyW

Specialized fell through, the guy got offered a silly price for it. Can't blame him. So the search continues, Bianchi Via Nirone, Scott S50, Specialized Allez seem to be the models. I still have the option on any of the new bikes recommended here, and have my Principia frame for my build almost sorted for shipping.

JeemyW

Fingers crossed now, I have found a trustworthy seller with a Specialized Roubaix. I am not sure on year, but condition is good, its on 105 11-speed, so 5700-5800?. He is including lights, a helmet, jacket, vest, bib (whatever a bib is), and a thermal suit, like a dry wetsuit it looks like - so all I need to get sorted with him before I take it away is shoes, because it has the tiny pedals that you need to clip onto, and a lock so it doesn't get stolen on the train.

Then I'll need a more powerful light, he is including a Lezyne 450XL but from what I've read it just won't be enough in pitch-dark country blackness.

Its going to be a couple of hours on the train but he is going to meet me halfway - otherwise it would be 4 hours on the train. It would be a 4-hour drive each way, I can't leave my wife that long. He knows an old school-pal of mine, Chris Hoy, and seems to be really good, honest, upfront, he's removed it from auction and I'm paying a deposit in the morning.

Its a full carbon bike, and it ticks about 38 of the 40 boxes I made. If it falls through the Scott S50 is still available. The latter is £495 but comes with Oxena carbon wheels plus another set of "winter wheels" - (I don't really know what "winter bikes" or "winter wheels are" - presumably same as cars, carbon wheels are fragile and you don't want them covered with salt) - the Roubaix is just under £600 but his helmet is POC, and there are glasses included, which I never considered, but obviously nice not to receive bees in the eye all the time. Effectively I'll get all my kit bar a computer which I don't need/care for, and a lock, which I am going to get the £20 Krypto wrapped chain one.

So with luck I'll be "on the road" next week.

schemieradge

I started cycling doing pretty much exactly the same type of commute you are talking about (8m miles each way - East Lothian also)... best thing I ever did. Used to think it was a long way, felt knackered after it, and only do it a couple of days a week... very quickly got to the point I hardly notice it and do it everyday.
I started off on a mountain bike, then moved to an "adventure bike", and have just recently bought a road bike (but not for commuting - I've realised I want to go out on longer runs for fun now).

The road bike I bought was 2nd hand and have to say that whole experience was a massive hassle... doing the research then waiting for the right bike to come up at the right size. Took ages.
If I was starting from scratch now I'd probably just schedule a trip to Decathlon and pick up the cheapest Triban that fits and see how that goes*. Easy to sell on if you want to upgrade, not going to break the bank if you don't use it much.
(* if the commute is all on-road)

Lights options aren't as good as they used to be since Philips stopped making the saferide. I've got a ravemen pr1200 which is fine for unlit roads.. (not as good as the saferide though)

JeemyW

I really fancy the Garmin light, its an 800 or so and it has some kind of auto-dimming feature?

JeemyW

So I finally picked up the bike today.

Sadly the seller forgot the lights, but I trust him, they will arrive.

I have a bundle of Chris-sponsored bibs, shorts and jackets, a really good POC helmet and POC goggles, and I bought a cheap Kryptonite loop lock. Also got some fingerless gloves.

Had a quick ride around Dundee (where I picked it up) just to get the feel of things and boy, its a different thing to a mountain bike.

I don't know whether to keep posting in this thread or start new ones for my questions; for example I have some kind of hardshell tyre which is all well and good but I am worried about traction in the winter and am starting to understand what "winter wheels" means.

I took it back on the train and did a 2-mile drive, mainly downhill. Found it medium-hard to adjust to the drop handlebars and to be honest I don't quite get how you can run them sitting on the drops, its manageable but not easy or safe.

Found that looking behind to see what cars are doing is really very difficult and wondering if a mirror is necessary or viable.

My laptop bag and 17" laptop are totally unviable, just keeps swinging round to the front; with a 5-hour round trip I took it cos I can't afford not to work, but thankfully I have the Henty bag which will hold my 13" Macbook Air easily, I am going to just leave my 17" at work, although maybe a laptop backpack will work longtermly.

So without lights I can't really ride safely or legally; I came home at 3.30pm and I could just "sense" that the cars weren't very pleased at my lack of visibility, I have an Arcteryx shell jacket that is bright blue but probably not reflective, i don't know.

I bought tonight a set of Eider Dalston trousers which have reflective roll-up clips, only £40 and seem to be going out of production.

The ride was not easy as the pedals are tiny and I don't have clip-on shoes, but I will sort that tomorrow. They are MTB type but I think that's better as there seem to be loads of MTB shoes you can walk in; road shoes you clip-clop.

It was 2 miles and it took me 10 minutes; as quick or quicker than in the car although it was the downhill run.

However I am feeling pretty unconfident about the first ride to work, 8 miles and 45 minutes mainly uphill, I think its going to be very hard, but should get easier soon. I'm just going to have to suck it up the first time and see what happens.

The bike itself is awesome, a virtually brand-new £1800 bike from what I can understand, full carbon, Campagnolo wheels, 105 groupset for the main although seems to be Tiagra front derailleur, and with the helmet and glasses alone I am happy I paid a good price.

I found it incredibly rattly, the roads around here aren't good and I think the wheels are a bit too thin, I may be wrong. I will certainly want to wear padded shorts/tights and I have some, I need to dig out my old POC MTB stuff too as I have a lot of armored gear that will work well and give me more confidence.

The main thing is simply how unaware one seems to feel about whats coming up behind. I thought you'd hear cars a lot more easily than you do, and they seem to drive tentatively behind you; its unclear if they are going to be erratic or if they are being caring/careful. So I definitely want a mirror I think.

Thanks to everybody for advice getting this far. I am constantly on the internet trying to understand whether I should wear underpants, what socks I need, etc etc but I am feeling pretty happy and step 1 is done!