How to adjust DMR V8 v2 pedals???

JDPower

I've stripped, cleaned and greased them, but putting them back together is more of a ball-ache than seems normal.

I'm used to pedals having a tabbed washer between the bearing side nut and the lock nut to reduce the bearing side tightening, but they don't have one. I tried bodging it by loosening and tightening repeatedly till the lock nut tightened at the same point the bearing side was right, but 15 miles of riding and one side came loose, so obviously NOT tight enough :roll:

There's no room to fit a screwdriver (or anything) down the side of the socket to hold the bearing side nut still while tightening.

So how the hell do you adjust the sodding things?

The Rookie

Do it up overtight (too much preload) on the second nut and then undo the first nut into it to create the locking effect.

Add a dot of locktite on each as well.

robertpb

That will be Loctite 577.

JDPower

The Rookie wrote:

Do it up overtight (too much preload) on the second nut and then undo the first nut into it to create the locking effect.

Add a dot of locktite on each as well.

Ah, that's just about the only thing I didn't think to try, will try that next, cheers. And was gonna put some threadlock on it anyway, just for my own piece of mind now

JDPower

robertpb wrote:

That will be Loctite 577.

Why specifically 577, and not just a regular threadlock?

JBA

robertpb wrote:

That will be Loctite 577.

577 is a thread sealer for use on industrial pipes.

Loctite 243 (liquid) or 248 (stick) is a better thread lock to use, IMO.

JDPower

JBA wrote:

robertpb wrote:

That will be Loctite 577.

577 is a thread sealer for use on industrial pipes.

Loctite 243 (liquid) or 248 (stick) is a better thread lock to use, IMO.

I thought as much, 243 is what I generally use for threads

JDPower

Just a final update, for anyone that comes across this topic when searching.

After a few back and forth emails with DMR, they basically admitted the 2017/latest version of the V8 V2 pedals are a PITA:

"I’ve spoken with the workshop and they have confirmed it isn’t the easiest to set the tolerance on the nut. We are In the process of looking into a tool to make adjustment more straight forward but this isn’t an immediate solution."

They also very kindly offered to adjust them for me, or swap them for the earlier version of the V8 V2 for me (which is a lot more sensible to adjust if/when the time comes). I shall be taking them up on the latter offer, I don't wanna ever see the inside of the current version pedals ever again!

steve_sordy

I have always found DMR to be extremely helpful when it comes to DIY servicing. I had one set of DMR Vaults and they sent me a service kit free of charge. This worked for them because when I bought a second bike and needed another set of pedals I bought DMR Vaults again. Then when my grandson needed some adult sized pedals I stuck with DMR again (V12 this time).

Therefore in exchange for a service kit, they not only sold two sets of pedals, but they got my goodwill, which is why I'm telling you guys about it!

JDPower

Final final update. Got my pedals back, with the 2016 V8 V2 internals fitted in my existing pedals (they simply replaced the internals rather than the whole pedal). Opened them up and put them back together in mins. Absolute doddle. NO locknuts or preload of any sort needed!

I can only conclude whoever redesigned them for 2017 and ADDED preload adjustment nuts (that clearly weren't originally needed) is a complete moron.

Just a note for anyone finding this topic when searching - they fitted my V8 V2.1 (2017) pedals with the V8 V2 (2016) internals (Link). So anyone facing this issue, and desperately wanting to keep using these pedals, the pedal shell is apparently exactly the same and you can simply fit the 2016 V2 internals into it and avoid future adjustment issues.

They have also now fixed their formerly incomplete service guide for the 2016 V8 on their site (Link). Unsurprisingly there's still no official service guide for the godawful 2017 versions