Position/Fitting/Neck Sore

archerc

I had an old Trek 420 for quite awhile that did me well for commuting in college. I wanted to get back into riding and enjoy some new forms of exercise. Recently got a used Cannondale CAAD8 54cm. I am 5' 8". Obviously this bike feels different than what I was used to. I feel like I am reaching more and leaning a little further forward. I did a 10 mile ride last week and had a sore neck the next few days. I don't remember that happening with the old bike...
Is this normal? Try a different stem? Other adjustments? Frame too big? Link to instagram to see what I had compared to now. Thank you! Excited to be part of this community and get into riding again.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BncVrKBgEs-/?taken-by=archer_c

keef66

Hard to say without seeing the set up of the new bike. Not much of a drop from saddle to bars on the old one. Can you flip the stem on the new one so it brings the bars a bit higher? Is the new bike fitted with a longer stem so you're reaching farther?

archerc

keef66 wrote:

Hard to say without seeing the set up of the new bike. Not much of a drop from saddle to bars on the old one. Can you flip the stem on the new one so it brings the bars a bit higher? Is the new bike fitted with a longer stem so you're reaching farther?

If you go to my Insta link, click over to the next photo to see the new bike!

geoffh73

That saddle looks to be pointing down, You could start by raising the nose and see it that helps>

Pooter

I would rotate the bars down, so the bar section in front of the bar-end caps is level with the ground , then move the STIs towards you a bit, which will reduce the reach.

photonic69

As above - the saddle needs to be level as a starting point. Get a large hardcover book and a spirit level with the bike on a level surface. Some smartphones have a level built in which will work (don't let it slide off book and onto floor!)
Also the hoods seem quite high up on the curve of the drops. Probably to suit the previous owner. Usually the hoods of the shifter will be roughly in line with the top of the drop curve. Have a look online at other bikes and compare your shifter position to those. This will be harder to remedy as it will need the bar tape to be re-wrapped so I shouldn't worry about it too much right now. I'd say the bike is the right size for you unless you have very long legs and a short back.

Your old bike looks..old. When last did you ride it? Have you continued with other sports or exercises after you last rode it up till now? It's probably you getting older and less flexible and having less core strength than you used to. (please don't take offence at this comment - it happens to everyone!) New or returning riders tend to support the weight of their upper body through leaning on their arms. This transfers stress to the muscles around the shoulders and neck as they tense for a long time holding you up whilst riding. Try some stretching and exercise to improve flexibility and core strength. It will be beneficial for you and not just for riding. When I went from MTBs to Road bikes I too suffered bad aches in my shoulders and neck but now 3+ years on it really doesnt affect me. I do a lot of stretching and core exercises almost every day now. Takes me 20 minutes on the floor and requires no equipment apart from a mat.

Hope this helps

keef66

Strikes me that both bikes have the bars as high as mechanically possible so it's going to be difficult to adjust that any further. Definitely get the saddle level to start with. A side on photo of you on the new bike would help us. Nearest foot on the pedal at the lowest point, hands on the hoods in your normal riding position

Bottom briquettes

If you buy a ‘built’ bike, the manufacturers make certain assumptions about the size and proportions of riders, on a given sized frame. I rarely find built bikes have the correct sized components, for my liking, and nearly always have to change stems and handlebars, which is why I prefer building up my own bikes, often from bits of built up bikes. I’ll buy a built bike, if I like the price, groupset and finishing kit, and I know I’d have difficulty matching the cost, to building the same bike up from parts. Handlebar width, and stem length, are the two components, I find I need to change, for comfort / fit reasons, more than any thing else though.

kingrollo

I hired a cannondale evo 5 for couple of days recently. I found it very uncomfortable - it felt very large even though it was a size 54 - when I got home I checked the geo of the bike and found indeed I would have been more suited to a size down.

It would seem that that particular model came up big - I am 5ft 7 and always try and focus on a top tube of 535 - then look at the stack and reach. Also the position of the hoods on the bars can make a difference if you spend a lot of time on the hoods.

If you can't sort it it might be worth dropping £100 or so on a pro bike fit - I know that sounds like a lot of cash, but if you aren't comfortable you aren't going to enjoy or cycling. Depending on you age you also may want to get into a stretching or yoga routine.

archerc

Thanks for the tips everyone! I did a few things...

I rotated the bars a bit so the hoods are closer to me. I leveled out the seat and moved it a bit forward in the post clamp. Did 23 miles yesterday and definitely didn't feeling like I was reaching forward like before. My upper body (and lower a bit) started to get sore towards the end. I think it is a "me" thing. I have started stretching and want to work on core strength. I think this will get rid of soreness.

The bike feels a lot better after a little adjusting! Thanks for the support.