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Does New Cassette Always Mean New Chain?

ed1973ed1973 Posts: 146
edited September 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
So I’m currently running a 1x10 with an 11-42t shimano cassette, but really keen on going for an 11-46t sunrace. Reasons are I need the extra bit at the top end (bail out) to get me up the climbs I do, and I’ve fallen over being clipped into pedals too many times, when running out of steam. I also like the full black look of the sunrace MX3. So the question is, my current cassette isn’t very old at all and I bought the chain and fitted them both at the same time. I’ve used the chain tool to see if it needs replacing and it doesn’t. So could I go and get the cassette and keep the chain? I know £20 for a chain isn’t too much hassle but was just wondering.
If I were to buy a new chain should I go KMC or shimano or have I just opened the age old question on the similar lines of apple or Android!!

Posts

  • May well be OK but buy a new chain anyway, you'll need it before long.
  • You can’t teach an old cog new links.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,904
    KMC and no need to pay more than £10-£12.
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  • 02GF7402GF74 Posts: 1,294
    I've ran 3 chains on the same cassette as I replace chain s once they reach 0.75 on the gauge. In theory they reverse should hold true., worst case fit a new chain, they are usually less expensive than the cassette...

    Don't be seduced by the black finish, if they are like sram cassettes, the coating wears off quickly so the cassette looks shite...
  • ed1973ed1973 Posts: 146
    02GF74 wrote:
    I've ran 3 chains on the same cassette as I replace chain s once they reach 0.75 on the gauge. In theory they reverse should hold true., worst case fit a new chain, they are usually less expensive than the cassette...

    Don't be seduced by the black finish, if they are like sram cassettes, the coating wears off quickly so the cassette looks shite...
    I didn’t realise this, has it happened to other people?
  • Three chains to a cassette is about right for me too. I tend to replace chains at about 0.65% but I still discovered that a fourth chain would not run on the old cassette, so I had to put the old chain back on until I bought a new cassette. If I had left the old chain and cassette on and run them into the ground, I'd have had to replace the rings as well!

    Wear on a chain is like the mechanical version of AIDS, in that it transmits the wear to everything it touches. So keep your chain clean and keep it lubed for the occasion. A worn chain starts sliding up and down the gears and wears them more rapidly than a new chain that just sits in the teeth and doesn't move. The worse the wear on the chain, the faster it wears the gear teeth.
  • Three chains to a cassette is about right for me too. I tend to replace chains at about 0.65% but I still discovered that a fourth chain would not run on the old cassette, so I had to put the old chain back on until I bought a new cassette. If I had left the old chain and cassette on and run them into the ground, I'd have had to replace the rings as well!

    Wear on a chain is like the mechanical version of AIDS, in that it transmits the wear to everything it touches. So keep your chain clean and keep it lubed for the occasion. A worn chain starts sliding up and down the gears and wears them more rapidly than a new chain that just sits in the teeth and doesn't move. The worse the wear on the chain, the faster it wears the gear teeth.
    Exactly.
  • You will definitely need a new chain as you have 4 more teeth on your top cog, so your current chain will likely be too short.
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  • swod1swod1 Posts: 1,639
    To avoid cassette wear I've got two chains and swap them over every 2-3 weeks working fine so far 1 clean chain drying and then 1 on bike.

    I'd just buy a new chain in case and you'll know from when they will start to wear as an old but good chain on a new cassette you might not remember the wear on it etc.

    I prefer new kmc x10 el chains they seem to last longer with regular cleaning in a little paraffin and left to dry out before use.
  • Hi,

    Just a few things to consider.

    Would it be better to get a new front chainring with less teeth and keep your existing chain & cassette ?
    If you fit the new 11-46t cassette, do you think you will have enough room to clear the rear derailleur when on the 46t sprocket ? ('b' screw adjustment) if not a new derailleur will be needed and that will be more cost to you.
  • ed1973ed1973 Posts: 146
    t0ffeeman wrote:
    Hi,

    Just a few things to consider.

    Would it be better to get a new front chainring with less teeth and keep your existing chain & cassette ?
    If you fit the new 11-46t cassette, do you think you will have enough room to clear the rear derailleur when on the 46t sprocket ? ('b' screw adjustment) if not a new derailleur will be needed and that will be more cost to
    Thanks for the heads up, I have a goat link fitted already to my hanger so I’m hoping it will be ok.
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