New Canyon Aeroad rear rim brake issue

CRAIGO5000

Hi all,

I’ve not yet rode my Aeroad yet and upon taking the time to check over the build, I’ve found the rear brake shoes weren’t lined up to the brake track on the Reynolds rims - try are too close to the tyre and about 1mm over the special brake track coating on the rim.

I’ve tried to line them up a few days ago and it proved to be impossible! There is no more adjustment left in the caliper.

If the bias is adjusted, that helps but then one brake shoe clamps down much sooner than the other.

Am I missing something obvious?

webboo

Is there no adjusting the brake shoes on the callipers. You should be able to move then down the slots a bit.

CRAIGO5000

There is but the shoes are on their lowest point and still brake too near the rim edge!

So annoyed as I needed this bike for a weekend trip.

Vino'sGhost

How about some pics ?

Also of the wheel in the drop out

cougie

Is the wheel in properly ? Take it out and put it back in.

Are you talking about liningeyo the brake blocks when the lever is pulled or not ?

CRAIGO5000

The wheel is in correctly.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZxojP ... 2JJA5M0-FT
https://drive.google.com/open?id=161BX8 ... KX1QeJ1elj
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Yc0xd ... -IuBINnJVU

The left hand pad doesn't have this problem, it's just the right hand pad. The front brakes line up great with the front wheel. It's just this rear that's odd.

Anyone any ideas?

webboo

Have you tried a different wheel to see if the brakes line up with the brake track on that. If they don’t it needs to go back.

crankycrank

If you don't get this sorted try these lowering pad holders. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AICAN-Alumin ... w-KWS3aW3Q

CRAIGO5000

I’m going to have to get onto them. This bike is a lemon. They balls loads of it up.

1. They sent the wrong garmin holder (£30 wasted)
2. The Fizik saddle clamp on the areopost was welded tight so saddle tilt isn’t an option. Apparently an issue on some Aeroads when googled. I don’t want to take a hammer to my Carbon seat post.
3. I only had 1 Reynolds tubeless tyre valves supplied.
4. The rear brake shoes can’t be aligned

Bike aborted. It’s going back to Germany and they can send me another. Here’s to another 4 week wait...

Vino'sGhost

Canyon doesn’t always get good press around here

CRAIGO5000

I’ve chased this and just had a call from one of their mechanics who was very knowledgable. This model runs a front caliper of the rear and front. The rear caliper is the new R8020-RS and Canyon also add a shim across the seat stays to add more strength compared to a front fork.

Anyway, he is adamant it is simply a tuning error and it must just need aligning. He said I can even ride it as they have logged the complaint and if I’m still not happy they will take it back.

I’m going to strip it down later and try to align the caliper.

Vino'sGhost

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

I’ve chased this and just had a call from one of their mechanics who was very knowledgable. This model runs a front caliper of the rear and front. The rear caliper is the new R8020-RS and Canyon also add a shim across the seat stays to add more strength compared to a front fork.

Anyway, he is adamant it is simply a tuning error and it must just need aligning. He said I can even ride it as they have logged the complaint and if I’m still not happy they will take it back.

I’m going to strip it down later and try to align the caliper.

always good to come back to these things having slept on them and had a cup of tea.

When you say "strip it down" what do you mean? it sounds a little ominous.

CRAIGO5000

He was German so the internation may have been lost but basically he thinks the 2mm bias screw not only adjusts the left/right shoe bias in relation to the brake surface on the wheel but also has a small bearing on the caliper height left and right. It would make sense seeing as the left shoe is on the brake track and the right can’t fully cover it?

I think it involves simply unhooking the cable tension and approaching it all from scratch.

I’ll update later no doubt!

Vino'sGhost

Ahh its a dual pivot brake. should be fine.

there should be no reason to remove the caliper but if you do, remember its a low torque to tighten the two bolts. 5-7nm

sungod

as it's direct mount, might be worth removing the brake and check the mounting holes are actually level...

when refitting, see if there's any slack that'd allow you to move the high side a bit lower

CRAIGO5000

I've just spent another 2 hours on this and ended up in exactly the same place. The right brake sits right on top of the edge of the rim braking surface by around half a mm.The left brake sits under the top edge of the rim braking surface by 2mm. As these dual pivot pads wear, they will ride up the rim by a few more mm which will simply wear out the right upper section of the rim wall adjacent to the tyre bead. Damn, what a complete waste of time, effort and money spent on the phone/online chat about the order, the issues with the order and the build of the supplied bike etc have left me thinking are these bikes really that good.

I also managed to get a proper pic of the headset bolt scratch I complained about, which on macro-vision actually isn't a scratch at all - it's a crack which runs through where the bolt head locks down the cap!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jgNL3 ... ILuC6ObnYd

I've a feeling Canyon will want to repair the bike at further cost in time and effort to me. I just want it gone now with a full refund. They aren't even in stock in any size so it's unlikely they'll be able to source a replacement built by an experienced mechanic.

What other manufacturers are worth considering?

Vino'sGhost

Blimey, whats all that bollocks about being built and torqued with an electronic torque wrench the ridden and tested before shipping? Also, have you been playing with that top cap bolt? It looks like its been adjusted several times or with a worn tool.

Also the logo is not straight. I get ocd about these things, it looks lazy and lacking attention to detail. Perhaps canyon are taking advantage of the cheap immigrants to keep costs low.

It might be worth taking it to a decent bike shop though just incase youve missed soemthing?

At least if there is an issue you have another opinion and you can comfortably tell canyon to refund the whole cost immediately.

Vino'sGhost

Also measure the relative heights of the caliper mounting points. In theory hey should be parallel especially since this is from a mould but you never know...............

CRAIGO5000

I’ve not messed with it - the scratched headset bolt was one of the first things I noticed along with one of the stem bolts being marked up with the paint scratched off. Its clearly been put together by an amateur or someone who doesn’t give a shat. These issues I was willing to waiver until I noticed the brake track issue which will likely wear through the £1000 wheelset if not fixed. That I cannot let slide on a bike I’ve just spent the best part of £3000 on.

If I’ve picked up on these issues, what else has the dodgy bike mechanic left?

Vino'sGhost

Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes sees things differently. But it does sound like youve got a friday afternoon bike there.

Where do you live?

edward.s

Looks like a rubbish job and you'll probably never trust it now anyway. I think the safest course for you and your sanity is to reject it for a refund. 3k is a lot of cash to have something that only 'nearly right'.

I can't really help with suggesting an alternative as I'm a more of a metal bike fanboi, but if you are capable of doing it and have the tools, what I would say is that assembling a bike yourself ensures it gets plenty of time, care and attention.

Vino'sGhost

edward.s wrote:

Looks like a rubbish job and you'll probably never trust it now anyway. I think the safest course for you and your sanity is to reject it for a refund. 3k is a lot of cash to have something that only 'nearly right'.

I can't really help with suggesting an alternative as I'm a more of a metal bike fanboi, but if you are capable of doing it and have the tools, what I would say is that assembling a bike yourself ensures it gets plenty of time, care and attention.

He's right you know.

daniel_b

Ouchie, threads like this deffo put me off of Canyon - I have considered them a few times.

I hope you manage to get it sorted to your satisfaction, nothing like these issues to take the shine completely off what should be a fantastic 'new bike' feeling. Goodness knows we pay enough for it!

Ben6899

If you have £3k to spend, treat yourself to a custom steel frame and built it up with help from your LBS (if help is required).

CRAIGO5000

Vino'sGhost wrote:

Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes sees things differently. But it does sound like youve got a friday afternoon bike there.

Where do you live?

I’m in Manchester.

Vino'sGhost

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

Vino'sGhost wrote:

Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes sees things differently. But it does sound like youve got a friday afternoon bike there.

Where do you live?

I’m in Manchester.

Ahh too far or i might have come and had a look for you

CRAIGO5000

Vino'sGhost wrote:

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

Vino'sGhost wrote:

Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes sees things differently. But it does sound like youve got a friday afternoon bike there.

Where do you live?

I’m in Manchester.

Ahh too far or i might have come and had a look for you

That's a very kind offer. Thanks for thinking of me

paulbnix

CRAIGO5000 wrote:

If the bias is adjusted, that helps but then one brake shoe clamps down much sooner than the other.

When I first read this thread I immediately thought of the bias adjuster as that fixed the problem on my SRAM Force brakes.

However they are not direct mount so distance from the rim can be adjusted by rotating the whole caliper.

Looks like direct mount are more demanding on correct frame alignment when you have space for larger tyres and need a longer drop.

Vino'sGhost

Why dont they just spec the proper rear caliper?

trailflow

Have you unhooked the cable and let the caliper fully retract open ?

It's not an ideal solution. but you could just shave the brake pads down abit. On the flat side, and the edge near the tyre with a file.

Another idea. Shave down the flat side of the conical spacer that sits between the brake pad holder and caliper arms. To give abit more room.

Vino'sGhost

It’s a new bike he shouldn’t need to even adjust it