Cassette/Scored freehub issues

Nolberto78
Nolberto78 Posts: 10
edited September 2018 in Workshop
I have an issue with my cassette/freehub caused by soft aluminium and under torquing the lockring.
The freehub body has been scored so deeply that the 5th cog has seated around 1 mm clockwise from where it should sit causing chain slippage under power.
Possible solutions are:
A) Position correctly and torque up as tight as I can.
B) Replace freehub body (moderate cost)
C) Get SRAM 1190 Cassette (pricy as hell)

Would A work or am i looking at releasing the moths from my wallet?

I can put my other wheels on to solve the problem but they are less aesthetically pleasing.

Comments

  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    I had the same issue with the freehub on my Mavic hub. Option A didn't work for me at all so I ended up buying a new freehub body and one-piece cassette. No issues since.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    moths must be released as you cannot replace what has been taken away

    #gone
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Nolberto78
    Nolberto78 Posts: 10
    Matthewfalle wrote:
    moths must be released
    as you cannot replace what has
    been taken away

    #gonehaiku

    Beautiful.

    Be free my moth friends
    Spend your days on auction sites
    "Nooo! We're nocturnal"

    #sadmoths

    I feel this may be the case. Was just checking if others had managed to bodge things successfully.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I fail to see how the sprocket rotating slightly relative to the freehub is causing the chain to slip?

    Have you checked chain wear?

    If this is happening after fitting a new chain it suggests the cassette's worn.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    I think they mean the cog is slipping on the freehub as it's worn the alu guide slots.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • Bottom briquettes
    Bottom briquettes Posts: 198
    Look for a replacement freehub that isn’t made of such a soft material.
  • Nolberto78
    Nolberto78 Posts: 10
    I would post a picture but I'm not at home. Because one sprocket is no longer in alignment it won't be at the correct spacing for the chain causing it to slip. There is no chain wear. If you take a look at a cassette the sprockets will align with a slight anticlockwise screw from small to larger to allow for the reduced distance from chainring to sprocket. The 1 sprocket is out of this alignment.

    Not sure if i can get a steel freehub body for novatec hubs.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    You can get Novatec freehubs with an ABG (anti-bite guard) steel spline.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    It really is down to how tight you do your lockrings though. Rtf is how they have to be. Clean sharp threads are need though and either a breaker bar or long torque wrench. Put the timidness in the bin were it belongs

    It is not how you ride that notches freehubs. I avoid it and so can you.

    I say this because every notched freehub I see has the lockring barely done up at all. There a pattern there. Also a freehub can only notch badly if the cassette can move. Sadly Shimano cassettes for some reason are more prone to this.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Nolberto78
    Nolberto78 Posts: 10
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    It really is down to how tight you do your lockrings though. Rtf is how they have to be. Clean sharp threads are need though and either a breaker bar or long torque wrench. Put the timidness in the bin were it belongs

    It is not how you ride that notches freehubs. I avoid it and so can you.

    I say this because every notched freehub I see has the lockring barely done up at all. There a pattern there. Also a freehub can only notch badly if the cassette can move. Sadly Shimano cassettes for some reason are more prone to this.

    I fully agree, it was my lily-livered approach to lockrings that caused it. I think I'll be in touch with Malcolm once i work out exactly which freehub I need.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    no need to contact him
    buy new freehub
    take old one off
    put new freehub on
    put cassette on
    do up really tight
    job jobbed

    #forthesunwillrise
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    It really is down to how tight you do your lockrings though. Rtf is how they have to be. Clean sharp threads are need though and either a breaker bar or long torque wrench. Put the timidness in the bin were it belongs

    It is not how you ride that notches freehubs. I avoid it and so can you.

    I say this because every notched freehub I see has the lockring barely done up at all. There a pattern there. Also a freehub can only notch badly if the cassette can move. Sadly Shimano cassettes for some reason are more prone to this.

    Agreed!

    Instructions from Shimano are that lock rings should be between 30 and 50nm (40) is printed on the cassette. 50nm is proper tight.

    No need for a torque wrench just use your weight and crank it up. Zipp free hubs are made of cheese I think.

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