Which groupset parts genuinely need changing
Hello,
I bought a Canyon Endurace with Dura ace groupset two years ago. The cassette, chainset and presumably the chain need replacing but I'm assuming for example that the existing bottom bracket will be compatible with a dura ace replacement chainset. In short, which groupset parts genuinely need changing.
Best wishes,
Ian H
I bought a Canyon Endurace with Dura ace groupset two years ago. The cassette, chainset and presumably the chain need replacing but I'm assuming for example that the existing bottom bracket will be compatible with a dura ace replacement chainset. In short, which groupset parts genuinely need changing.
Best wishes,
Ian H
0
Comments
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Bottom bracket (depends how worn it is)
Brake pads
Cable inners usually.
What are you doing? Upgrading or replacing worn items?
Chainset don't really wear out. You can replace just the chainrings.0 -
How many miles has it done?
How much TLC have you given the groupset?
What kind of conditions have you ridden the bike in?
How is it functioning?
As Shirley has said above, cables are often the first thing that need replacing and new cables fitted well can really improve overall performance of the groupset.0 -
So you've never changed the chain? That's the first thing to usually wear out in my experience.
Buy yourself a chain checker tool, and check the chain. If it is less than .75, then you don't need to replace any of the drivetrain, you might need to lube it a bit.
If it is on the .75, but not the 1.0, then you with luck just need to replace the chain - it might slip on the cassette a little at first, if this doesn't settle after a ride or two replace the cassette too.
If it is on the 1.0 then you will need a new cassette as well as chain, and if you are unlucky (or in this case particularly careless with your maintenance) new chainrings.
Generally speaking it is very hard to wear out chainrings.
Brake cables can last for donkeys years, although they should be inspected for fraying or other damage, if it's there replace them. Otherwise if the brakes feel sticky, aren't returning cleanly, replace them.
Gear cables don't last as long as brake cables, although luck is a factor. Certainly after a couple of years you might want to replace them to crispen things up., although you won't need to replace the outer unless you have ridden in the wet a lot.
An experienced hand will be able to tell quite quickly if the gear cables need replacing, simply from how the shifts feel.0 -
Thanks for the quick response everyone.
To answer those points, I'm replacing worn items. I replaced the wheels last week and in fitting the cassette I noticed that some of the teeth in the lower gears are badly worn. I live in a hilly area so those gears are in constant use. Some of the teeth on the chain wheel are also beginning to show signs of wear. The chain is cleaned after and lubed before every ride. I assumed it would need replacing from the state of the cassette. Everything is functioning well and I would guess I've done between 3 and 4k miles from new. I can replace the chain rings? Didn't think of that.
Thanks, Ian H0 -
Even when new some of your chainring teeth are a different shape to aid shifting. I would be surprised if you need new chainrings so soon.
But if you've run the same chain for 3-4k miles you could well have worn the cassette, especially if it's a DuraAce which has some softer Ti sprockets. As suggested above, a chain wear tool is a quick / cheap way to keep on top of derivetrain wear, allowing you to replace the chain before it starts to badly wear the cassette
And brake blocks. If you've worn out a pair of wheels in 2 years you must be doing a lot of braking...0 -
chain
cassette
cable inner and outers
check brake pads
job jobbed
#slickPostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
Chainrings definitely won't be worn after 3-4K miles. They are a funny shape anyway to help with shifting.
As above use a chain stretch guide and replace when at 0.75. That should make a cassette last a little longer if you change the chain a little more often.
If everything is functioning well, no need to replace anything. Only the chain as measured at 0.75 (as a rough guide) then the cassette too when shifting becomes poor and the chain jumps around.
BB when it creaks or feels grindy
Shifting cables maybe once every 2 years depending on mileage.0 -
The only caveat is that running a very worn chain will cause accelerated wear to the chainrings. The use of a chain checking tool will help identify when the chain is needing to be replaced.
If the new chain skips on the chainrings you will have to replace them, otherwise just cables, chain, cassette. I generally get 3 chains to a cassette changing the chain at 0.75% wear.
The BB will need replacing if there is play/rocking of the chainset spindle or if the rotation of the chainset isn't smooth.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0 -
I’d consider chain set, chain, cassette, and brake pads, to be the most often consumed parts. I’d only change the B.B. out of necessity, be that due to a compatibility issue, or because of wear and tear. I’d be very disappointed if the brifters or mechs needed replacing before I upgraded the G.S. or sold the bike.0
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oneoff wrote:Some of the teeth on the chain wheel are also beginning to show signs of wear.
Showing 'signs of wear' is not the same as being 'worn' - it's entirely possible that nothing needs replacing and that you will be spending money unnecessarily. Some pics would help...0 -
I fear this guy is being led a dance by a “caring “bike shop
Where do you live?0 -
Vino'sGhost wrote:I fear this guy is being led a dance by a “caring “bike shop
Where do you live?
MF shares your fears.
#goelsewherePostby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honoursmithy21 wrote:
He's right you know.0 -
I don't dance, I take advise from a knowledgeable community such as this. This might also be helpful.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LqTmvuf6tw
Thanks and best wishes, that's all from me for now.
Ian H0 -
Shirley Basso wrote:Bottom bracket (depends how worn it is)
Brake pads
Cable inners usually.
What are you doing? Upgrading or replacing worn items?
Chainset don't really wear out. You can replace just the chainrings.
I find the cable outers need replacing before the inners. This being mainly down to the inners being stainless steel but the metal wire that lines the outer isn't so when it rusts it becomes stiff and then causes poor braking or shifting. But since you are replacing one you may as well do the other.
One area often neglected is jockey wheels. They spin and get clogged up with filth being so close to the road and near the rear wheel. They start to round off too if not cleaned.0 -
Bottom briquettes wrote:I’d consider chain set, chain, cassette, and brake pads, to be the most often consumed parts. I’d only change the B.B. out of necessity, be that due to a compatibility issue, or because of wear and tear. I’d be very disappointed if the brifters or mechs needed replacing before I upgraded the G.S. or sold the bike.0
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Webboo wrote:Bottom briquettes wrote:I’d consider chain set, chain, cassette, and brake pads, to be the most often consumed parts. I’d only change the B.B. out of necessity, be that due to a compatibility issue, or because of wear and tear. I’d be very disappointed if the brifters or mechs needed replacing before I upgraded the G.S. or sold the bike.FFS! Harden up and grow a pair0