RS Monarch plus

slc123

Hi all,

I am after some advice from someone that knows the RS range pretty well. So I purchased a second hand frame that's has a RS Monarch Plus rear shock - circa 2005. Reading up and looking at pics of the stock bike from the same year they all have a compression damping blue lever described with 3 x settings.

Looking below at the frame, it doesn't - Should it be there, has it miraculously disappeared or did some of the model of shock just not have it...?

The Rookie

Which Monarch plus?
R is Rebound only, no lever.

RL is Rebound and Lockout so you should have a knob for rebound and a 2 position lever (on and off) for the lockout.

Its the RT3 (Rebound and Threshold x 3) that has a 3 position lever for setting the desired threshold level for the pedal platform.

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/first-ride-ro ... nair-2015/
Rebound is the red knob, Lockout is the blue lever.

I can't see your photo through my Co firewall so can't comment on it I'm afraid.

steve_sordy

If you want to be absolutely certain, then contact the SRAM Tech Centre; contact details here:
http://www.sramtechcentre.co.uk/

But first you need to identify the shock. There should be an ID code somewhere on the shock body in the form of a string of letters and numbers. On my shock it is printed on the shock body just below the upper shock mounting. That ID code will tell SRAM everything they need to now about that shock.

A 13-year old shock may need some work doing though.

slc123

Thanks guys... typing error there it’s a 2015 shock.

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/the-review-tr ... up-test-2/

Looking at the original spec it’s the RC3 unless of course he changed it.

The Rookie

May have changed it due to an issue or swapped in a cheaper shock and kept the better one (making it a Slash 9-n frame in reality).
I bought the entry level T129 frame as it was cheaper to do that and swap the shock (Was a Monarch RL, is an RP23 now) than buy the frame from the higher model with the better shock fitted.

slc123

The Rookie wrote:

May have changed it due to an issue or swapped in a cheaper shock and kept the better one (making it a Slash 9-n frame in reality).
I bought the entry level T129 frame as it was cheaper to do that and swap the shock (Was a Monarch RL, is an RP23 now) than buy the frame from the higher model with the better shock fitted.

That's interesting... I know from reviews people were saying getting the right compression damping for climbs etc is quite a key thing... I guess I will see how it performs and then swap the shock if required.

slc123

Ok, I've removed the shock to check it out. It's an R Model, so just has the rebound option. Assuming this is the budget RS model, I may look to upgrade.

I don't know a lot about rear shocks as not built a full suspension, but I am guessing the sizing is all I need to be concerned with? The shock says 210x60, is there anything else to be mindful of?

Thanks

thistle_

slc123 wrote:

The shock says 210x60, is there anything else to be mindful of?

210mm is the eye to eye distance (distance between the bolts) and 60mm is the stroke (the amount the piston moves) so you need one that has the same.

Fox shocks use a 1/2 inch eyelet, Rock Shox may be 12 mm. If you get a shock that is different, you'll need to also buy new mounting hardware (the pivots/pins) from somewhere like TF Tuned.
The widths of the eyes might vary too, but every shock I've had has been the same - maybe I just got lucky. Again if it's different you'll need new mounting hardware.

steve_sordy

slc123 wrote:

............

I don't know a lot about rear shocks as not built a full suspension, but I am guessing the sizing is all I need to be concerned with? The shock says 210x60, is there anything else to be mindful of? ....

If you stick with the same make, you should be Ok, but if you change brands, then be sure to check that the diameter of the body (which may be different) still has enough clearance. Also any bits that stick out don't foul the frame during full compression. For the sake of how long it would take to check, it's not worth the hassle if you discover it fouls.

slc123

steve_sordy wrote:

If you stick with the same make, you should be Ok, but if you change brands, then be sure to check that the diameter of the body (which may be different) still has enough clearance. Also any bits that stick out don't foul the frame during full compression. For the sake of how long it would take to check, it's not worth the hassle if you discover it fouls.

Logic says I just buy the RS Monarch Plus RC3 - About £300 new and they have a "Trek" size of 210x60. Trek seem to be good at making things very specific to their bikes. Can't find many other manufacturers that make that size as a standard and no one seems to be selling second hand anywhere I can find!