Is a clutch deraillure actually necessary?

Hello everyone, it’s been a very long time since I last posted anything here but I’m stuck making a decision about a clutch deraillure.
I converted to 1x earlier this year, and, because I was doing it bit by bit haven’t yet installed the new clutch deraillure.
I’ve ridden in some of the harshest, rockiest part of the Peak District that I know on the standard deraillure, and have had absolutely no issues with dropping the chain.
I was about to return the clutch deraillure that I bought the other week but before I do I just wanted to make sure that I absolutely do not need it. So far I have only ridden my 1x setup in summer 2018 (best summer since ‘76 you know). As I said, I’ve not needed a clutch on even the knarliest terrain so far, but will that all change I the rain? The mud? Cold? Any other condition I’ve not thought of?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
I converted to 1x earlier this year, and, because I was doing it bit by bit haven’t yet installed the new clutch deraillure.
I’ve ridden in some of the harshest, rockiest part of the Peak District that I know on the standard deraillure, and have had absolutely no issues with dropping the chain.
I was about to return the clutch deraillure that I bought the other week but before I do I just wanted to make sure that I absolutely do not need it. So far I have only ridden my 1x setup in summer 2018 (best summer since ‘76 you know). As I said, I’ve not needed a clutch on even the knarliest terrain so far, but will that all change I the rain? The mud? Cold? Any other condition I’ve not thought of?
Thanks in advance.
Tom
0
Posts
Riding buddy suggested a narrow-wide chainring would help - he has a NW and a clutch derailleur and his chain never drops, but maybe he's just lucky.
I keep my clutch off most of the time and have never dropped a chain, although I also have a n/w chainring up front which I think makes more of a difference than the clutch.
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
Just try it and see.
The only way that the chain can whip up and down is if the mech arm moves forwards and back to give some slack to the chain. The friction clutch damps down this movement of the mech arm and substantially stops the chain whipping up and down. This may not completely stop all three of the above effects, but it will substantially reduce them. The clutch mech works by resisting movement of the mech arm, it is not there to increase tension in the chain.
If these effects are not something that you have ever suffered or neither noticed nor care, then you don't need a clutch mech!
The disadvantage of the clutch mech is that you may need to release it to enable you get the rear wheel out. It also marginally increases the pressure required to change onto the larger gears. I have read that some riders find this last so pronounced that they cannot live with the clutch mech. That never bothered me at all and I would prefer to ride with a clutch mech.
Bird Aeris 120 | Boardman Team 650b | Boardman Pro FS | Calibre Two.two
No doubt I will back on here tomorrow editing this post as I have just tempted fate .......
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools
What about the bike?
I'll see myself out.... :P
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
Previous:
2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
But if the question was: Is a clutch derailleur actually recommended ? Then 100% yes, it removes chain slap.
If you have the clutch mech already, then fit it and sell the other.
Would get a clutched if I change my mech, but my XTR is still going great.
no all rings are equal.
Tom