New to roads

solidsneek
solidsneek Posts: 57
edited September 2018 in Road beginners
Just bought an entry level BTWIN 500se - Any tips for a complete road beginner. I sold my ROCKRIDER to fund it and can't wait to get started have no 'official' road gear.

thanks in advance

Comments

  • Ride bike. Have fun. Buy quality bib shorts.
  • I started only a week or so ago myself. I've found that so far, I haven't gone anywhere too far, but to gain confidence, I've increased my distance every time. I started off, just a get feel of my bike, by going around the town (10km) and then I have upped my distance every ride.

    The most important thing is to do what you feel comfortable and to enjoy it! Also yes, as the first reply says, quality bib shorts are a must! You can tell the difference without any.
  • figbat
    figbat Posts: 680
    As above, bib shorts and a cycling jersey or two. Make sure you are familiar with the bike and how to deal with punctures on the road - work out if and how you want to carry any bits with you (tube, levers, pump and/or CO2 etc). Some stuff pockets until they bulge, others use a small saddle bag, I use a bottle cage tool bottle. If you're sticking at it I'd also suggest getting into clipless shoes and pedals ASAP.

    Other than that, get out there and see how it goes. If it goes well, do more. If something goes wrong, work out why and fix it (here is a good source of help on that).
    Cube Reaction GTC Pro 29 for the lumpy stuff
    Cannondale Synapse alloy with 'guards for the winter roads
    Fuji Altamira 2.7 for the summer roads
    Trek 830 Mountain Track frame turned into a gravel bike - for anywhere & everywhere
  • big_harv
    big_harv Posts: 512
    In terms of who or what you'll be sharing the roads with....well if you were into off-roading then potholes replace tree roots, vehicles replace stray animals. Plenty of horror stories about inconsiderate drivers but if you apply common sense and a little courtesy then you won't generally go wrong. Unless you live in London where it's carnage :lol:

    As above, be prepared for minor mechanicals. Mobile phone and a fiver also a wise addition.
  • if you are totally new, don't cycle on the roads when busy, try cycle paths or toe paths or bridleways. Once you confidence improves then try on the actual road.
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,169
    If you aren't using already, I'd put clipless pedals & shoes high on the list.
    Many noobs start with SPD (rather than SPD-SL). Easier to use if double-sided and cleats are recessed so you can still walk.
    Many of us never move on.
  • ww88
    ww88 Posts: 18
    Mad_Malx wrote:
    If you aren't using already, I'd put clipless pedals & shoes high on the list.
    Many noobs start with SPD (rather than SPD-SL). Easier to use if double-sided and cleats are recessed so you can still walk.
    Many of us never move on.


    Excuse my ignorance, but what is the difference between SPD and SPD-SL? I’m in the process of buying for the first time and would rather buy right.
  • craker
    craker Posts: 1,739
    There's lots of SPD vs SPD-SL threads on here so its not easy to decide which one is 'best'.

    Generally, SPD is double sided pedals with small metal cleats. Shoes have recesses for the cleats so you can walk fairly normally with them. Popular with off-roaders, commuters and a fair few hardened roadies.

    SPD-SL are found on single sided pedals (harder to learn with), the cleats are large which gives a good contact area with the pedal but they're hard to walk on. Roadies only.
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,169
    ^cracker of a summary.

    Also, 'touring' shoes with SPD fittings look more like the pure roadie shoes (SPD-SL). 'Mountain' SPD shoes have more tread, look a bit more clunky and are usually a bit heavier. both the tourning and mountain can use the same SPD pedal.

    You can't usually fit SPD cleats to SPD-SL shoes (without adapters) and vice versa.

    Other clip systems are around too, but shimano are most widespread.
  • Don't wear all black kit, no one will see you and you'll be murdered by a lorry within the week.

    You'd better wave at all other cyclists or else.

    Don't leave your bottles on the bike outside the shop or they'll get nicked.

    Enjoy.
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    Get some good lights, wear bright colours, be aware of road users and most important for me:
    ACT LIKE A ROAD USER - NOT LIKE A PEDESTRIAN
    So don't bump kerbs, don't jump red lights etc.
  • Craigus89 wrote:
    Don't leave your bottles on the bike outside the shop or they'll get nicked.

    who would steal used bidons? :lol:
  • navrig2
    navrig2 Posts: 1,851
    Wear a helmet and don't use headphones/buds.

    Depending on your budget there is plenty of choice of low cost bib shorts and jerseys to get you started.

    A cheap waterproof phone slip is not a bad idea - a few quid.

    As distance increases carry some grub and some money.

    Carry some ID which would help you be identified should you have a mishap.

    Keep getting out. The initial tiredness and muscle pain subsides and is replaced with endorphins.

    Enjoy.
  • That’s a great starter bike. Get some comfortable bibs, with a decent chamois ( the padded bit in the bibs ) and enjoy riding. I’d recommend joining a British Cycling Let’s Ride, ride ( I am biased though, because I’m a qualified British Cycling ride leader)

    www.letsride.co.uk

    Find a ride near you, sign up, go along, take any advice given by the ride leaders on board, and then build your distances up slowly. Enjoy the riding, go places you wouldn’t normally go.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Find a ride near you, sign up, go along, take any advice given by the ride leaders on board, and then build your distances up slowly. Enjoy the riding, go places you wouldn’t normally go.

    Unless that advice is being offered by Bottom Briquettes - in which case I'd think twice about it...
  • Imposter wrote:
    Find a ride near you, sign up, go along, take any advice given by the ride leaders on board, and then build your distances up slowly. Enjoy the riding, go places you wouldn’t normally go.

    Unless that advice is being offered by Bottom Briquettes - in which case I'd think twice about it...


    you would, however most people soon realise that I speak from experience, gained by riding a lot, and do actually learn something useful.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    OP hasn't been back in six weeks...
  • most people soon realise that I speak from experience, gained by riding a lot, and do actually learn something useful.

    Like GP4K's puncture every 40 miles, cross-chaining is okay because QA procedures and Giant frames are made of better carbon.

    Sage advice.
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    you would, however most people soon realise that I speak from experience, gained by riding a lot, and do actually learn something useful.

    Sadly, from the responses your posts tend get on here (people only have to look at your post history to verify this), I think most people realise that you're just full of it... :lol:
  • hopkinb
    hopkinb Posts: 7,129
    Craigus89 wrote:
    most people soon realise that I speak from experience, gained by riding a lot, and do actually learn something useful.

    Like GP4K's puncture every 40 miles, cross-chaining is okay because QA procedures and Giant frames are made of better carbon.

    Sage advice.

    My favourite was that it's impossible to fix a puncture on a disc brake wheel without a gadget to pry apart the brake pads.