Tektro brake probs.
kevin47
Posts: 4
New to the forum so, hello.
i have an oldish Specialized Rockhopper with Tektro Auriga hydraulic brakes. The rear brake - and only the rear brake - has been acting up for a while now and I'm at my wits end with knowing what to do. It happens after a short stretch of downhill braking (not immediately) and I can only describe it as a 'graunchy' noise (not a grinding metal on metal noise) which develops into a vibration, felt right through the saddle. After prolonged braking it's positively screaming and will continue then for the duration of the ride. I've renewed the pads a couple of times and even the rotors, all to no avail. 1 or 2 bike repair places have suggested they can do no more than what I have done.
For what I do, the bike has been great and I don't really want to get rid and get something else, so please, please, any suggestions. Many thanks for any help
i have an oldish Specialized Rockhopper with Tektro Auriga hydraulic brakes. The rear brake - and only the rear brake - has been acting up for a while now and I'm at my wits end with knowing what to do. It happens after a short stretch of downhill braking (not immediately) and I can only describe it as a 'graunchy' noise (not a grinding metal on metal noise) which develops into a vibration, felt right through the saddle. After prolonged braking it's positively screaming and will continue then for the duration of the ride. I've renewed the pads a couple of times and even the rotors, all to no avail. 1 or 2 bike repair places have suggested they can do no more than what I have done.
For what I do, the bike has been great and I don't really want to get rid and get something else, so please, please, any suggestions. Many thanks for any help
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Comments
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Why do you suggest getting rid of the bike, all you need to do is replace the rear brake, or both if you have to have matching brakes.
Seems like this one needs to be seen in person hence I have nothing more to offer than the above, you've checked all bolts are tight and the brake pad clips are fitted correctly.
Also the rear wheel bearing are smooth and the wheel is held securely in the frame.0 -
Sounds like a sticky piston, have they been thoroughly cleaned when you were swapping pads?
If one sticks it doesn’t create much braking but the binding and distortion of the disc makes for unpleasant vibrations and noise.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Many thanks for the replies. I'd done all the checks suggested by 02G.. I'll have a look at the pistons, then if no improvement, I'll probably have a look at a new brake. If it comes to that, wonder if you've any tips on which brakes ?. It'd only be for general use, mixed terrain and nothing dramatic. (It's 160mm on the back and 180mm on the front). Thanks again.0
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Basic Shimano Deore brakes are good for the money and will work fine.
I have SLX and think they are really good (they have ceramic pistons like the posher XT)."Ride, crash, replace"0 -
Sorry for the late response but thanks BillyCool for the extra tips0
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I know how irritating this can be. I used to have a 2009 Kona Dawg Supreme, from new. After two years, the Shimano XT rear brake started howling and screaming. The bike would vibrate and it was bloody awful. When on a long steep descent, it sounded like a car horn, a loud one! I tried everything I could think of, my mates could think of, the Kona users website could think of, even the Kona Tech guy had no suggestions! I removed the super light weight caliper mount and put a more solid one in from lower down the Kona Dawg range. I changed brake pads, brake pad materials, and I changed discs, from solid metal to the XT Icetech range (sandwich construction and bolted spider).
Oh, and in addition to installing new pads, I'd also previously rubbed the solid discs over some emery paper placed upon a flat surface. I was looking for rippling, but there was none.
I tried CopperEase between the pistons and the pads. That worked for a very short length of time, but it is very easy to contaminate your pads with this idea, but I was desperate.
The only thing that worked for any length of time was the Swissstop brake silencer spray. It was £15 for a very small aerosol, but you don't need much and it will do many applications. http://www.swissstop.ch/silencer/
How long does each application last? It depends upon where you ride. One wet and mucky ride will have you back to square one. In the summer, you'll get a couple of hundred miles out of it.
My noisy rides wee being ruined, but at least I learned not to overuse the rear brake!
Eventually I got fed up of faffing about with it and dismantled the bike and sold all the components separately.
I kept the XT brake set and put it on my hardtail. Within two rides the problem started again! To cut this long story short, and to make a helpful point. I believe now that it was a small amount of air in the brake hose. It is harder to get the air out of the rear brake system because of the length and routing of the hose. Despite there being no sponginess in the brake, I was desperate enough to pay to have the brake bled by my LBS. I now believe that they didn't do a good enough job. I suspect that the small amount of air was allowing the pistons to vibrate. Once they start vibrating, it just gets worse. My rear braking was only fixed by replacing the caliper and the hose.0 -
BillyCool wrote:Basic Shimano Deore brakes are good for the money and will work fine.
I have SLX and think they are really good (they have ceramic pistons like the posher XT).
You can sink more time, money and effort into trying to fix the Tektros but Billy has the best suggestion. Deores are great for the money.
FFIW, I also have the older SLX M666 with the ceramic pistons (with Ice Tech pads and Hope floating rotors) and have never had a single issue with them in around 6 years. Fit and forget with loads of power and no noise or vibrations.Current:
NukeProof Mega FR 2012
Cube NuRoad 2018
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