Raleigh Competition 700 and STI Conversion

sgt.pepper
sgt.pepper Posts: 300
edited December 2018 in Vintage bikes forum
So I picked up a beautiful Raleigh competition in black. I'm joining my first racing club when summer comes around, though currently undecided whether I want to go track or road. It's a little rusty so I'm getting it powder coated and some fresh decals, and putting some 700s on it (if they fit in the small rear clearance, which they should). Just stumbled across the Raleigh comp classic tyres, chuffed that they do retro look racing tyres.

If I go road racing I want to get some STI shifters so I don't have to keep reaching down to change, but don't want to ruin the classic look. Any recommendations? Gears won't be an issue as I'd also be upgrading the chainset with the 700c switch. Obviously not a problem if it becomes a track bike.

Can provide pics if requested, if only cause I think it's just so cool.

Comments

  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Pics please. Words are useless.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,325
    What's the spacing for the rear hub? STIs will probably need a cassette type hub with 130mm width. If it's 130mm the world is your oyster, a silver groupset will look better on an old bike I reckon. If the downtube shifters have brazed on bosses you will need the cable guides and adjusters that screw onto them.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If you must do away with the DT shifters I always think Campag levers look better on a classic bike than Shimano or SRAM. Not sure why. Nostalgia possibly. Silver if possible.

    And if new wheels, consider a retro profiled rim like the H Plus Son TB14 in polished silver.
  • sgt.pepper
    sgt.pepper Posts: 300
    Pics please. Words are useless.

    Will sort this evening.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    What's the spacing for the rear hub? STIs will probably need a cassette type hub with 130mm width. If it's 130mm the world is your oyster, a silver groupset will look better on an old bike I reckon. If the downtube shifters have brazed on bosses you will need the cable guides and adjusters that screw onto them.

    Spacing?
    keef66 wrote:
    If you must do away with the DT shifters I always think Campag levers look better on a classic bike than Shimano or SRAM. Not sure why. Nostalgia possibly. Silver if possible.

    And if new wheels, consider a retro profiled rim like the H Plus Son TB14 in polished silver.

    Yeah I want silver and as little rubber as possible. Much like the retro look battery powered light on my commuting Raleigh, I want the classic styling but modern practicalities. It may sound silly when I already have a perfectly functional modern road bike, but it simply doesn't interest me. Should probably sell it, but obviously I'm beholden to the law of n+1.
  • Update - scavenged an unused road bike of my brother's with 105 on it. Bike is currently being converted at shop and conti-classics ordered :D Will update with photos once it comes back. Only ones I took before dropping it off aren't very clear.
  • Sgt.Pepper wrote:
    So I picked up a beautiful Raleigh competition in black. I'm joining my first racing club when summer comes around, though currently undecided whether I want to go track or road. It's a little rusty so I'm getting it powder coated and some fresh decals, and putting some 700s on it (if they fit in the small rear clearance, which they should). Just stumbled across the Raleigh comp classic tyres, chuffed that they do retro look racing tyres.

    If I go road racing I want to get some STI shifters so I don't have to keep reaching down to change, but don't want to ruin the classic look. Any recommendations? Gears won't be an issue as I'd also be upgrading the chainset with the 700c switch. Obviously not a problem if it becomes a track bike.

    Can provide pics if requested, if only cause I think it's just so cool.

    How does joining a racing club differ from joining a normal club? You aren't being selected for anything you are just joining a club.

    #wondering
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Sgt.Pepper wrote:
    So I picked up a beautiful Raleigh competition in black. I'm joining my first racing club when summer comes around, though currently undecided whether I want to go track or road. It's a little rusty so I'm getting it powder coated and some fresh decals, and putting some 700s on it (if they fit in the small rear clearance, which they should). Just stumbled across the Raleigh comp classic tyres, chuffed that they do retro look racing tyres.

    If I go road racing I want to get some STI shifters so I don't have to keep reaching down to change, but don't want to ruin the classic look. Any recommendations? Gears won't be an issue as I'd also be upgrading the chainset with the 700c switch. Obviously not a problem if it becomes a track bike.

    Can provide pics if requested, if only cause I think it's just so cool.

    How does joining a racing club differ from joining a normal club? You aren't being selected for anything you are just joining a club.

    #wondering

    Just meant I'll be racing in a club. Never been in one before so using noob language I guess.
  • Still to do;

    - remove wheel decals
    - figure out a more subtle place to put speedo, possible even buy a classic style one if they exist
    - order leather saddle bag from the UK https://www.etsy.com/nz/listing/5189930 ... e_active_1
    - buy new mini-pump that fits in the saddle bag
    - new saddle with those studs
    - buy leather hairnet


    CRv7RQK.jpg
    yPnN596.jpg
  • Sgt.Pepper, where are you based?
    Ecrasez l’infame
  • Sgt.Pepper, where are you based?

    British expat in Wellington.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Treat it to a nice Brooks with the big hammered copper rivets.

    Or if you want to do it cheaper, the Spa Cycles Chinese copies are if anything even sturdier.

    Then you have bag loops for your retro saddle-bag.
  • keef66 wrote:
    Treat it to a nice Brooks with the big hammered copper rivets.

    Or if you want to do it cheaper, the Spa Cycles Chinese copies are if anything even sturdier.

    Then you have bag loops for your retro saddle-bag.

    Been considering a Brooks. Do they live up to the hype?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I have a B17 special on my winter bike. Armchair comfy out of the box. If you wanted something racier a swift or a swallow or a team pro?
  • Update with a comment and a question -

    I'd recommend against the Conti Classics. They look brilliant and roll well on smooth tarmac, but there seems to be almost no absorbent properties in the sidewalls - any sign of uneven or uncomfortable tarmac and you lose a noticeable amount of speed. It's almost like they're solid, no matter what you do with the pressures.

    Wheels look far better without the ugly modern decals - next upgrades will be some narrower bars as I hate the ones on it at the moment, and a longer stem to make up for the slight shortness of the top tube. Also seriously considering some lighter, semi-deep section carbon wheels - though concerned they won't quite match the look (even sans decals). Plus, according to the wife spending around $1k on some bike wheels is 'unreasonable.' Pfft.

    Considering I'm now getting into some amateur racing, is it worth it? I've never ridden deep sections, so unsure if there'll be a notable difference in pace - I'm conscious of the fact that my bike is already a bit heavier than what most people will be using. I accept that's purely out of choice, but I'm trying to mitigate the effects a little.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Sgt.Pepper wrote:
    Update with a comment and a question -

    I'd recommend against the Conti Classics. They look brilliant and roll well on smooth tarmac, but there seems to be almost no absorbent properties in the sidewalls - any sign of uneven or uncomfortable tarmac and you lose a noticeable amount of speed. It's almost like they're solid, no matter what you do with the pressures.

    Wheels look far better without the ugly modern decals - next upgrades will be some narrower bars as I hate the ones on it at the moment, and a longer stem to make up for the slight shortness of the top tube. Also seriously considering some lighter, semi-deep section carbon wheels - though concerned they won't quite match the look (even sans decals). Plus, according to the wife spending around $1k on some bike wheels is 'unreasonable.' Pfft.

    Considering I'm now getting into some amateur racing, is it worth it? I've never ridden deep sections, so unsure if there'll be a notable difference in pace - I'm conscious of the fact that my bike is already a bit heavier than what most people will be using. I accept that's purely out of choice, but I'm trying to mitigate the effects a little.

    why would you spend $1000? for that bike get some carbonzone/farsport tubs - utter bargain for what you need.

    aero won't make a lot of difference but better rolling and massive weight saving will do.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Sgt.Pepper wrote:
    Update with a comment and a question -

    I'd recommend against the Conti Classics. They look brilliant and roll well on smooth tarmac, but there seems to be almost no absorbent properties in the sidewalls - any sign of uneven or uncomfortable tarmac and you lose a noticeable amount of speed. It's almost like they're solid, no matter what you do with the pressures.

    Wheels look far better without the ugly modern decals - next upgrades will be some narrower bars as I hate the ones on it at the moment, and a longer stem to make up for the slight shortness of the top tube. Also seriously considering some lighter, semi-deep section carbon wheels - though concerned they won't quite match the look (even sans decals). Plus, according to the wife spending around $1k on some bike wheels is 'unreasonable.' Pfft.

    Considering I'm now getting into some amateur racing, is it worth it? I've never ridden deep sections, so unsure if there'll be a notable difference in pace - I'm conscious of the fact that my bike is already a bit heavier than what most people will be using. I accept that's purely out of choice, but I'm trying to mitigate the effects a little.

    why would you spend $1000? for that bike get some carbonzone/farsport tubs - utter bargain for what you need.

    aero won't make a lot of difference but better rolling and massive weight saving will do.

    Christ, 300 bucks. There must be a catch surely? 1000 is about the going rate for a decent set of 2nd hand ones here.

    Also avoiding tubs due to the extra faff and cost involved, this is my main training bike as well.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    no - no catch at all. loads of people here use them, i have used them for training, racing, commuting, posing. Used in the Alps and Abruzzo mountains on Tour and Giro climbs with no problems at all. used for crits and RR, done an Etape on them. no problems.

    light, roll well, last for years, look cool, make a great noise.

    why the problem with tubs? get tub. tape tub on. sorted. easier than clinchers, far far less hassle than tubeless. fit some Conti Sprinters and its job jobbed.

    lighter, ride nicer, make you feel special.

    do it. do it. do it now. do it. do it. buy them now. do it.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • no - no catch at all. loads of people here use them, i have used them for training, racing, commuting, posing. Used in the Alps and Abruzzo mountains on Tour and Giro climbs with no problems at all. used for crits and RR, done an Etape on them. no problems.

    light, roll well, last for years, look cool, make a great noise.

    why the problem with tubs? get tub. tape tub on. sorted. easier than clinchers, far far less hassle than tubeless. fit some Conti Sprinters and its job jobbed.

    lighter, ride nicer, make you feel special.

    do it. do it. do it now. do it. do it. buy them now. do it.

    Ha, they'll be my first purchase after Christmas. Clinchers though, don't have the time for unnecessary faff these days.

    Update with another query -

    What recommendations do people have for a long stem for what (I think) is a one inch quill. Preferably that also comes with a narrower set of handlebars than the current ones. The bike is too short for me, so trying to extend what I can. Struggling to find a good selection of longer quill stems. Will I be better off getting a converter? They look a bit clunky.
  • Matthewfalle
    Matthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Sgt.Pepper wrote:
    no - no catch at all. loads of people here use them, i have used them for training, racing, commuting, posing. Used in the Alps and Abruzzo mountains on Tour and Giro climbs with no problems at all. used for crits and RR, done an Etape on them. no problems.

    light, roll well, last for years, look cool, make a great noise.

    why the problem with tubs? get tub. tape tub on. sorted. easier than clinchers, far far less hassle than tubeless. fit some Conti Sprinters and its job jobbed.

    lighter, ride nicer, make you feel special.

    do it. do it. do it now. do it. do it. buy them now. do it.

    Ha, they'll be my first purchase after Christmas. Clinchers though, don't have the time for unnecessary faff these days.

    Update with another query -

    What recommendations do people have for a long stem for what (I think) is a one inch quill. Preferably that also comes with a narrower set of handlebars than the current ones. The bike is too short for me, so trying to extend what I can. Struggling to find a good selection of longer quill stems. Will I be better off getting a converter? They look a bit clunky.

    go tub - they are easier to set up than clincher, roll better, lighter.

    no unnecessary faff at all.

    check places like sjs cycles, planet x for stems.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.