cricket noises from my drivetrain
Hello all!
There's a very annoying noise in my drivetrain, it seems to be my left crankarm as it's absent when I pedal with only the right crank and I hear it when pedaling with the left one. It's not a tick, it sounds like what a frog would sound like if it could say "cricket".
It's a gxp Sram s950 crankset but since the frame is BB30 a BB30 to BSA sleeve was pressed in by the LBS. This fits rock solid still I think, I tried removing it a long time ago but it didn't move at all. I've had the crankset for 3.5 years but bought it second hand. I've changed the bottom bracket already but that didn't solve it. I also re-greased the (speedplay) pedals, tightened the wheel bearing preload, greased the rear deraileur bolt, cleaned and re-greased the chainring bolts and the 3 bolts that fit the spider to the cranks. None of this solved it! This morning I did an ultimate attempt, removed the bearing cups again and cleaned the thread really well and reassembled. Then the noise was gone for a while but after 15 minutes of biking it was back, less than before and only with more intense power applied to the pedals but during the ride it started getting worse again.
Some suggestions would be really welcome!!
There's a very annoying noise in my drivetrain, it seems to be my left crankarm as it's absent when I pedal with only the right crank and I hear it when pedaling with the left one. It's not a tick, it sounds like what a frog would sound like if it could say "cricket".
It's a gxp Sram s950 crankset but since the frame is BB30 a BB30 to BSA sleeve was pressed in by the LBS. This fits rock solid still I think, I tried removing it a long time ago but it didn't move at all. I've had the crankset for 3.5 years but bought it second hand. I've changed the bottom bracket already but that didn't solve it. I also re-greased the (speedplay) pedals, tightened the wheel bearing preload, greased the rear deraileur bolt, cleaned and re-greased the chainring bolts and the 3 bolts that fit the spider to the cranks. None of this solved it! This morning I did an ultimate attempt, removed the bearing cups again and cleaned the thread really well and reassembled. Then the noise was gone for a while but after 15 minutes of biking it was back, less than before and only with more intense power applied to the pedals but during the ride it started getting worse again.
Some suggestions would be really welcome!!
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It sounds like the crank is moving a bit or the bearing cup is moving in the frame from your description. Try tightening the crank up a bit first then if that doesn’t do it knock the bearing out of the frame and put it back in with some fixing gunk. Then if that doesn’t do the trick look at the wheels. Concentrate on the skewers and spokes to begin with. If that doesn’t yield any results look at the seat rails.0
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The cranks are already as tight as I could get them, I checked if there was any play and stopped tightening when the play was gone and then a bit more. The weird thing is that I couldn't fit the left crank arm of an Sram Apex crankset from another bike, there was still play when I couldn't tighten the bolt any further. Maybe it's good to try the s950 crank with a spacer?
The bearing cups are new, I don't expect them to be the problem? With the old bearing cups (in which I pressed new bearings) the noise was the same.0 -
Cricket noises you say? How's that?
Sorry, I'll get my coat.0 -
Checked your cleats?0
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Shortfall wrote:Cricket noises you say? How's that?
Sorry, I'll get my coat.
Thats a bit outfield0 -
What happens if you pedal out of the saddle? I have exactly the same problem, and the noise stops if I stand up but keep pedalling. I suspect in my case it's the saddle itself, as the rails and seatpost are well lubed and maintained, but the saddle has a slight crack on one side, and I can force the noise by bending the saddle. Other things to think of are qr skewers and even the headset if the lower race has got some grit in it. Good luck, John.0
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You've checked everything in and around the drivetrain but you're still stumped?I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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Erasmus wrote:What happens if you pedal out of the saddle? I have exactly the same problem, and the noise stops if I stand up but keep pedalling. I suspect in my case it's the saddle itself, as the rails and seatpost are well lubed and maintained, but the saddle has a slight crack on one side, and I can force the noise by bending the saddle. Other things to think of are qr skewers and even the headset if the lower race has got some grit in it. Good luck, John.
That's a very good point, I've tried that and the sound is still there when biking out of the saddle. There is however also some noise coming from the saddle, even after i tightened the seatpost. How do you lube saddle rails?
Renewing the grease on the headset is also a good idea, it's been a while so it won't hurt. The QR skewers also sound like they could use some lubrication but how can I do this without risking them coming loose?redvee wrote:You've checked everything in and around the drivetrain but you're still stumped?
Almost but I'm not ready to give up yet...0 -
Raymond, you can drizzle light oil or spray where the rails enter the back of the saddle. It's never made any difference to me, but some people say it has worked for them. Cleaning and greasing the qr skewers and dropouts shouldn't put them at risk of coming loose if they're tightened up properly. Frustrating isn't it - I can go for a 3 hour ride with blissful silence, only for it to come back next time I'm out. After a couple of beers some nights I'm almost using it as an excuse to buy a new fancy carbon seatpost and saddle - wouldn't I go spare if it still chirrups next ride!0
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I reckon you have either a crack in your bottom bracket or a worn bearing in your bottom bracket.
I had a similar thing about 3 years ago.
Change the bottom bracket and see if it disappears.There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed0 -
Reading a previous post of mine -
I recommend trying turning the pedals whilst you are not on the bike. If the creaking continues then it will be the bearings and if the creaking stops then the BB housing is cracked as its the force of you driving down on the pedals that forces the housing apart and causes the croaking noise.There's warp speed - then there's Storck Speed0 -
Erasmus wrote:Raymond, you can drizzle light oil or spray where the rails enter the back of the saddle. It's never made any difference to me, but some people say it has worked for them. Cleaning and greasing the qr skewers and dropouts shouldn't put them at risk of coming loose if they're tightened up properly. Frustrating isn't it - I can go for a 3 hour ride with blissful silence, only for it to come back next time I'm out. After a couple of beers some nights I'm almost using it as an excuse to buy a new fancy carbon seatpost and saddle - wouldn't I go spare if it still chirrups next ride!
It's extremely frustrating! Especially since I even tried putting another crank, swapping pedals, putting the crank on another bike and the noise changes but never goes. At least I silenced the saddle by tightening the screws a bit more, I also have it all the way to the back of the seatpost which might make it more prone to getting noisy also. I will look into the skewers too.StorckSpeed wrote:I reckon you have either a crack in your bottom bracket or a worn bearing in your bottom bracket.
I had a similar thing about 3 years ago.
Change the bottom bracket and see if it disappears.
I've already installed a new crankset but that didn't help unfortunately...StorckSpeed wrote:Reading a previous post of mine -
I recommend trying turning the pedals whilst you are not on the bike. If the creaking continues then it will be the bearings and if the creaking stops then the BB housing is cracked as its the force of you driving down on the pedals that forces the housing apart and causes the croaking noise.
This is worth trying, I do hear it also when I apply sideways pressure on the left crank arm without rotating the cranks. Yesterday I tried to install the left crank arm of an Apex crankset which for some reason didn't work, today the noise was worse than yesterday. I'm starting to think I have to be more careful with tightening the left crank arm, yesterday it was better after I reinstalled it but today it was worse. I'm gonna try to fit it a bit looser (I can't get it tighter so that can't be the problem..).
Thanks for all the help anyway!!0 -
Today I tried tightening the left crank arm with a bit more attention to what's happening and I noticed there keeps being some play. The bottom bracket is new so I would be surprised if that's the problem, I have a relatively long 8mm hex key but even when I put my full weight on it there's still some play left on the cranks. Is that normal?
Related to that, how are gxp cranks supposed to tighten? Does the left crank arm tighten against the bearing races or does it tighten against the crank spindle? I've always wondered what the mechanism is.0 -
Could be the fitment on one side of the BSA adaptor. I had one put on my Focus which had a horrible noise from one side. The LBS had to redo it (an absolute bugger to remove and redo due to the Loctite I believe). Didn't happen after that!0
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I'm indeed afraid this might be the problem, very good to know the adapter can be removed. I went to the LBS a year ago to ask if he could remove it (he also placed it) but he said he wasn't sure if it could be done. So that's a last resort then, I think I will replace it with a Praxis Works conversion BB then.Bumo_b wrote:Could be the fitment on one side of the BSA adaptor. I had one put on my Focus which had a horrible noise from one side. The LBS had to redo it (an absolute bugger to remove and redo due to the Loctite I believe). Didn't happen after that!
Today I got a bit wiser though, yesterday I put a lot of effort reducing the play by tightening the left arm as much as I could and this made the noise worse. Tomorrow I'm gonna see if putting a spacer and the crank arm a bit less tight does anything.0 -
In general, if you do a bolt up tight and there is still play in the part, it could be the bolt is too long and bottoming in the hole. Perhaps fit a washer on the bolt or otherwise shorten it a bit.The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.0
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raymond82 wrote:
CUT
Related to that, how are gxp cranks supposed to tighten? Does the left crank arm tighten against the bearing races or does it tighten against the crank spindle? I've always wondered what the mechanism is.
The inner bearing race is clamped between crank and the 24 mm part of the spindle, so the chainset is fixed without spacers etc.
Suggestions for your problem:
-Left crank splines are worn. Remedy could be wrapping 1 turn of teflon tape around the splines and spindle (22 mm part) before mounting the crank.
-Bearing cup(s) not tight in frame. Remedy: wrap 1 turn of teflon tape around the thread before mounting.0 -
Keezx wrote:raymond82 wrote:
CUT
Related to that, how are gxp cranks supposed to tighten? Does the left crank arm tighten against the bearing races or does it tighten against the crank spindle? I've always wondered what the mechanism is.
The inner bearing race is clamped between crank and the 24 mm part of the spindle, so the chainset is fixed without spacers etc.
Suggestions for your problem:
-Left crank splines are worn. Remedy could be wrapping 1 turn of teflon tape around the splines and spindle (22 mm part) before mounting the crank.
-Bearing cup(s) not tight in frame. Remedy: wrap 1 turn of teflon tape around the thread before mounting.
thanks!! That's a really interesting suggestion! I was just looking at it again and noticed something interesting, I took the drive side crank out and slid a loose non-drive side bearing over the spindle to see how it fit. There was a bit of play between the spindle and the bearing, not much but I also tried another crankset and there was no noticeable play. This is in line with your suggestion that the spindle is worn. Interestingly when I fit everything again I didn't notice much play but if tomorrow when I go biking I notice issues again I will try the teflon tape solution.
I've also decided to go for new cranks though, they're a couple of years old and this is a clear sign they're worn out. They're also carbon so if the carbon has some wear I rather not take any risks.0
