Replacing BB30 on Boardman CX Team
My bottom bracket on my 2014 boardman CX team has started creaking.
Sounds like I have done well for it to get this far.
So I've order the tools and a Rotor BB30 bottom bracket, and watched a few vids.
One thing I'm really confused about it if you look at the reviews for the 2014 cx team, this is a common theme often in weeks of getting the new bike, and lots of people saying when they took it apart the BB hadn't been greased sufficiently to keep dirt out, which is the general consensus as to why it happens (certainly when it happens soon after purchase)
However, none of the videos I have seen even bother with grease. All that seems to be used is some locktite. So where should I be greasing to get around this known problem? I'm assuming mine was greased properly as it wouldn't have got this far otherwise, but want to ensure I get the new one right.
And what number locktite should I be using around the bearings to hold them in?
Thanks
Sounds like I have done well for it to get this far.
So I've order the tools and a Rotor BB30 bottom bracket, and watched a few vids.
One thing I'm really confused about it if you look at the reviews for the 2014 cx team, this is a common theme often in weeks of getting the new bike, and lots of people saying when they took it apart the BB hadn't been greased sufficiently to keep dirt out, which is the general consensus as to why it happens (certainly when it happens soon after purchase)
However, none of the videos I have seen even bother with grease. All that seems to be used is some locktite. So where should I be greasing to get around this known problem? I'm assuming mine was greased properly as it wouldn't have got this far otherwise, but want to ensure I get the new one right.
And what number locktite should I be using around the bearings to hold them in?
Thanks
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Comments
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Your Rotor BB30 is an alternative design to the usual BB30 crap. Instead of relying on a press-fit, the Rotor part screws together and holds each side of the cups in place. Don't use locktite, instead just grease or even copperslip around the mating surfaces and torque to spec.
Grease the crank axle where it meets the bearings too.0 -
champson wrote:Your Rotor BB30 is an alternative design to the usual BB30 crap. Instead of relying on a press-fit, the Rotor part screws together and holds each side of the cups in place.
For the BBs to enable fitting a 24mm spindle crank in BB30, I prefer the Wheels Mfg units as they make them with angular contact bearings, which normally have a longer lifetime than annular ball bearings as they use larger balls and can fit more of them into each bearing.0 -
Thanks all.
This is what Ive bought. Just looks the same as usual to me:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/roto ... prod130493
Which presumably means the locktite/grease question still stands?
I also saw this in the reviews:
Great quality thankfully. Note I purchased these to replace FSA bearings that are used with an FSA crankset. After install with new Rotor bearings I was left with about a 2mm gap. Appears these bearings are slightly narrower than FSA bearings, and no wave washer or spacers are supplied with this kit (what you see in the photo is what you get). I had to remove my crank and removed the bearings a couple times to confirm it was installed properly, before eventually purchasing a wave washer and spacer from my LBS. Luckily the bearing quality is such that I was able to remove and install multiple times and the bearings are still in very good operational condition. Comforting if you are one that enjoys disassembling and cleaning your components.
Which I dont fully understand.
I ordered one of these also, but think thats the wave washer rather than a spacer.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa- ... prod165461
Thanks in advance0