Raceface crank spacers

bobbydigital
bobbydigital Posts: 254
edited July 2018 in MTB workshop & tech
I have installed this RF Chester crank, it's for 73/68mm.

I have had to run the 4 spacers they provide with the crank, those are the white things.
Would I be better off adding a chainline spacer to the bearing cup and reducing the white spacers by 2?

To me it's new, I've never needed to space the crank like this before, normally one spacer on the drive side has always worked.

0d2jsEc.jpg

Comments

  • steve_sordy
    steve_sordy Posts: 2,443
    I have never owned or ridden a Chester crank, so I'm flying blind here. But I don't like the look of that! It just looks wrong, are you certain that you have followed the instructions correctly?

    Spacers normally go between the BB bearing housing and the frame to ensure that you don't squash the tube spacer (and to get the chain line correct). So if they are meant to be there, then the shaft that the crank is fastened onto looks too long. But as I said, I'm flying blind here.
  • bobbydigital
    bobbydigital Posts: 254
    I've seen people install them differently.

    One the way I did it, those spacers are supplied with the crank, pre-installed on the non drive side.

    The other way was with 2 chaline spacers on the drive side and one on the non drive side.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    I haven't used Chester cranks either, but whatever is going on in the pic above doesn't look right.

    The inner face of the crank arm should be more or less flush with the outer face of the BB bearing shell.

    If you need to space it out then the spacers go in between the BB and frame, like so:

    maint_htii_cups_big.jpg
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bobbydigital
    bobbydigital Posts: 254
    So it just fits like any other crank then.

    I was told by a qualified cytech mechanic who teaches bike fitting, mechanical skills and riding skills that they do not advise the use of 2 spacers due to limited threads engaging with the bb and shell but seems it's the way to do it.

    Cheers.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Then he's a male chicken (shortened version), personally I'd trust Raceface's advise over anyone else anyway!

    Road bike BB's have shorter thread as they don't need to allow for the spacer, so presume he never uses them?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • wilberforce
    wilberforce Posts: 294
    The BB threads are also not all same length. I think it is Saint that offers longer threads, assuming that you may fit a chain device
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Nope, Saint are identical to XTR, I have both. The chain device replaces a spacer anyway, so clearly an ill thought out myth.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.