Rear wheel vibrating and making loud noises

mtbrider123
mtbrider123 Posts: 102
edited July 2018 in Workshop
Hi Guys,

My Zipp NSW rear wheel started vibrating and making loud noises for some reason. I’ve tried cleaning it with alcohol, sanding the brake pads, swapping them with the front ones but there’s still a lot of vibration and noise. Does anyone know what this might be?

Thanks

Comments

  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    Have you tried taking it out of the bike and spinning it. Does it feel gritty which might mean the bearings are toast.
  • mtbrider123
    mtbrider123 Posts: 102
    Webboo wrote:
    Have you tried taking it out of the bike and spinning it. Does it feel gritty which might mean the bearings are toast.

    I’ve tried shaking it in the bike, taking it out and spinning, but doesn’t look like there any play.
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,005
    Freehub?
    Mavics were famous for a death wail when farked, presumably others too.

    Edit - intermittent and only while freewheeling.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Ahhh the curse of the Zipp freehub.

    Zipp great rims total toss hubs. The bearings rarely last long but are at least easy to replace. Zipp dont reccomend changing the bearings in the freehub but my experience (Having had to replace regularly) is that its no harder to replace bearings in the freehub body than the main hub (88 / 188). The new hubs look pretty easy too

    I dont kn ow what it is but they just dont seem to last. The zipp replacements are worth buying desopite the ridiculous expense since they need to support the washer that keeps the freehub and hub body apart. Unless you can find an alternative where the inner ring is thicker than normal. I think bearings that are normal clearance are more likely to work. The enduras are extra clearance, have very thin cross section inner and dont seem to support the washer as well. I might be overthinking it but if your not careful you get drag which pulls the deraileur arm forward and causes the chain to go slack when you stop pedaling
  • mtbrider123
    mtbrider123 Posts: 102
    Ahhh the curse of the Zipp freehub.

    Zipp great rims total toss hubs. The bearings rarely last long but are at least easy to replace. Zipp dont reccomend changing the bearings in the freehub but my experience (Having had to replace regularly) is that its no harder to replace bearings in the freehub body than the main hub (88 / 188). The new hubs look pretty easy too

    I dont kn ow what it is but they just dont seem to last. The zipp replacements are worth buying desopite the ridiculous expense since they need to support the washer that keeps the freehub and hub body apart. Unless you can find an alternative where the inner ring is thicker than normal. I think bearings that are normal clearance are more likely to work. The enduras are extra clearance, have very thin cross section inner and dont seem to support the washer as well. I might be overthinking it but if your not careful you get drag which pulls the deraileur arm forward and causes the chain to go slack when you stop pedaling


    Thanks for the detailed description. So it looks like it’s the hub that’s causing this. I’ll have a look at it tomorrow.
  • Vino'sGhost
    Vino'sGhost Posts: 4,129
    Of course it might be nothing to do with the hub :). But its an easy job to check. No need to dismantle or remove bearings to check, just jam your finger and try and feel for gritiness whne you rotate and try moving the bearing in and out. There shouldnt be any play.
  • mtbrider123
    mtbrider123 Posts: 102
    So I’ve checked and there’s no play in the hub
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,005
    Manic problem wasn’t play, it was the seal I think.
    Fixed mine by whole freehub replacement.

    No idea if this is same on yours, or whether replacement is economic.