Rear wheel vibrating and making loud noises

mtbrider123

Hi Guys,

My Zipp NSW rear wheel started vibrating and making loud noises for some reason. I’ve tried cleaning it with alcohol, sanding the brake pads, swapping them with the front ones but there’s still a lot of vibration and noise. Does anyone know what this might be?

Thanks

webboo

Have you tried taking it out of the bike and spinning it. Does it feel gritty which might mean the bearings are toast.

mtbrider123

Webboo wrote:

Have you tried taking it out of the bike and spinning it. Does it feel gritty which might mean the bearings are toast.

I’ve tried shaking it in the bike, taking it out and spinning, but doesn’t look like there any play.

Mad_Malx

Freehub?
Mavics were famous for a death wail when farked, presumably others too.

Edit - intermittent and only while freewheeling.

Vino'sGhost

Ahhh the curse of the Zipp freehub.

Zipp great rims total toss hubs. The bearings rarely last long but are at least easy to replace. Zipp dont reccomend changing the bearings in the freehub but my experience (Having had to replace regularly) is that its no harder to replace bearings in the freehub body than the main hub (88 / 188). The new hubs look pretty easy too

I dont kn ow what it is but they just dont seem to last. The zipp replacements are worth buying desopite the ridiculous expense since they need to support the washer that keeps the freehub and hub body apart. Unless you can find an alternative where the inner ring is thicker than normal. I think bearings that are normal clearance are more likely to work. The enduras are extra clearance, have very thin cross section inner and dont seem to support the washer as well. I might be overthinking it but if your not careful you get drag which pulls the deraileur arm forward and causes the chain to go slack when you stop pedaling

mtbrider123

Vino'sGhost wrote:

Ahhh the curse of the Zipp freehub.

Zipp great rims total toss hubs. The bearings rarely last long but are at least easy to replace. Zipp dont reccomend changing the bearings in the freehub but my experience (Having had to replace regularly) is that its no harder to replace bearings in the freehub body than the main hub (88 / 188). The new hubs look pretty easy too

I dont kn ow what it is but they just dont seem to last. The zipp replacements are worth buying desopite the ridiculous expense since they need to support the washer that keeps the freehub and hub body apart. Unless you can find an alternative where the inner ring is thicker than normal. I think bearings that are normal clearance are more likely to work. The enduras are extra clearance, have very thin cross section inner and dont seem to support the washer as well. I might be overthinking it but if your not careful you get drag which pulls the deraileur arm forward and causes the chain to go slack when you stop pedaling

Thanks for the detailed description. So it looks like it’s the hub that’s causing this. I’ll have a look at it tomorrow.

Vino'sGhost

Of course it might be nothing to do with the hub . But its an easy job to check. No need to dismantle or remove bearings to check, just jam your finger and try and feel for gritiness whne you rotate and try moving the bearing in and out. There shouldnt be any play.

mtbrider123

So I’ve checked and there’s no play in the hub

Mad_Malx

Manic problem wasn’t play, it was the seal I think.
Fixed mine by whole freehub replacement.

No idea if this is same on yours, or whether replacement is economic.