Short 125mm dropper

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Comments

  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    edited June 2018
    JBA wrote:
    This is getting stupid!

    What exactly do you want?

    Your original post stated that the 150mm drop Reverb had too long an insertion depth so you wanted a 125mm dropper that was approximately 3cm shorter overall.
    Now you are saying you want a post that is slammed on your frame. Why does it have to be slammed? As long as it is inserted beyond the safe limit everything will be fine.

    A 400mm post with 350mm insertion would mean a drop of only about 30mm when you take the collar in to account.

    Try and do a few drawings and hopefully the penny will drop.
    I wanted 3cm less insertion length, not overall. Why wouldn't I want it to be slammed? What would be the point of a dropper if it had to be in a climbing position to start off with?
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    I thought my original post made that quite clear. Nowhere did it say I was looking for shorter overall length and I even started off by saying I'm looking for a post with a short insert length so I really don't know where you got that from. This is becoming a waste of time since none of you actually read what I said in my op.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    Here are two photos that might do a better job at showing the problems I'm having.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_PipDt ... p=drivesdk
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_WI3aD ... p=drivesdk
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    You need a dropper post with a shorter insertion depth so the bottom of the seat post doesn’t hit the shock. This can only be achieved by fitting a post with a shorter overall length if you want to maintain the correct saddle height.
    I don’t understand what you mean when you say you want the post to be ‘slammed’ in the frame. With the dropper fully extended you set the saddle height. Once that is done there is no need to adjust the post in the seat tube. That is the whole point of a dropper post.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    edited June 2018
    Rowan404 wrote:
    ...Why wouldn't I want it to be slammed? What would be the point of a dropper if it had to be in a climbing position to start off with?

    If by 'climbing position' you mean fully extended then that is exactly why dropper posts were invented.
    For flat, non-technical and uphill you ride with the post fully extended. When it's time to point the bike down the steep, technical stuff you push the lever/button to drop the saddle to get it out of the way and allow more room to move the bike about underneath you.

    Do you actually know how a dropper post works and how to use one? Read THIS ARTICLE to gain some useful knowledge.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Rowan404 wrote:
    I thought my original post made that quite clear. Nowhere did it say I was looking for shorter overall length and I even started off by saying I'm looking for a post with a short insert length so I really don't know where you got that from. This is becoming a waste of time since none of you actually read what I said in my op.
    To lower the saddle at pedalling height without increasing the insertion depth (due to the limitation you have) you need a shorter post, that is EXACTLY what you ask for, however its now clear you haven't a clue how to use a dropper post, so I'm out.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    JBA wrote:
    Rowan404 wrote:
    ...Why wouldn't I want it to be slammed? What would be the point of a dropper if it had to be in a climbing position to start off with?

    If by 'climbing position' you mean fully extended then that is exactly why dropper posts were invented.
    For flat, non-technical and uphill you ride with the post fully extended. When it's time to point the bike down the steep, technical stuff you push the lever/button to drop the saddle to get it out of the way and allow more room to move the bike about underneath you.

    Do you actually know how a dropper post works and how to use one? Read THIS ARTICLE to gain some useful knowledge.
    I'm not a very tall guy so a 125mm dropper will put me in a good climbing position when fully extended if the post is slammed. I also hate having the post get in my way when I'm descending which is why I want it slammed on my frame. Right now the insert on my dropper is around 3cm away from letting me do that. Therefore I need a dropper with a 3cm shorter insert and I have already found one no thanks to anyone here.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    I don't know how none of you can grasp this concept.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Because its not how anybody else thinks its how you should use a dropper, I get the concept - its just stupid. Set the saddle at best pedalling efficiency when fully extended, use the drop to get it out the way, getting one that is a perfect fit so it can be slammed right down and reach best pedalling is the holy grail, but rarely achievable, running it slammed and not having best pedalling efficiency makes no sense unless its on a DH bike you just want to winch up hills, but then you may as well use a QR clamp and fixed post.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    The Rookie wrote:
    Because its not how anybody else thinks its how you should use a dropper, I get the concept - its just stupid. Set the saddle at best pedalling efficiency when fully extended, use the drop to get it out the way, getting one that is a perfect fit so it can be slammed right down and reach best pedalling is the holy grail, but rarely achievable, running it slammed and not having best pedalling efficiency makes no sense unless its on a DH bike you just want to winch up hills, but then you may as well use a QR clamp and fixed post.
    To be honest I don't really care that much about getting optimal pedalling efficiency. It's all about priorities. For me a low saddle on the descents is worth more than having the best possible pedalling efficiency.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    That’s fine, but it would have helped to say that at the start, as quite logically everyone assumed you would be using it in the same way as the other 99.99% of users which is why your statements on length made no sense at all.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Rowan404 wrote:
    I'm not a very tall guy so a 125mm dropper will put me in a good climbing position when fully extended if the post is slammed. I also hate having the post get in my way when I'm descending which is why I want it slammed on my frame. Right now the insert on my dropper is around 3cm away from letting me do that. Therefore I need a dropper with a 3cm shorter insert and I have already found one no thanks to anyone here.

    You really have no idea, do you? :roll:

    Have you actually ridden a bike any appreciable distance before?
    As The Rookie says, you have to set the saddle height for best pedalling efficiency, not for the best clearance when it is dropped. Pedalling with the saddle too low is inefficient and won't do your knees and hips any favours.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    JBA wrote:
    Rowan404 wrote:
    I'm not a very tall guy so a 125mm dropper will put me in a good climbing position when fully extended if the post is slammed. I also hate having the post get in my way when I'm descending which is why I want it slammed on my frame. Right now the insert on my dropper is around 3cm away from letting me do that. Therefore I need a dropper with a 3cm shorter insert and I have already found one no thanks to anyone here.

    You really have no idea, do you? :roll:

    Have you actually ridden a bike any appreciable distance before?
    As The Rookie says, you have to set the saddle height for best pedalling efficiency, not for the best clearance when it is dropped. Pedalling with the saddle too low is inefficient and won't do your knees and hips any favours.
    Yes I do ride bikes, thanks for asking. I just rode like 10k uphill today at different saddle positions and didn't really notice a massive difference. I actually found it harder to climb technical stuff when the saddle was high as you are unable to move around your bike as much.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    The Rookie wrote:
    That’s fine, but it would have helped to say that at the start, as quite logically everyone assumed you would be using it in the same way as the other 99.99% of users which is why your statements on length made no sense at all.
    I don't really pay attention to these sort of things but assumed most people slammed their dropper. Here on the North Shore it is kinda necessary if you are doing any sort of tech which happens to be most of the trails.
  • Rowan404
    Rowan404 Posts: 104
    JBA wrote:
    Rowan404 wrote:
    I'm not a very tall guy so a 125mm dropper will put me in a good climbing position when fully extended if the post is slammed. I also hate having the post get in my way when I'm descending which is why I want it slammed on my frame. Right now the insert on my dropper is around 3cm away from letting me do that. Therefore I need a dropper with a 3cm shorter insert and I have already found one no thanks to anyone here.

    You really have no idea, do you? :roll:

    Have you actually ridden a bike any appreciable distance before?
    As The Rookie says, you have to set the saddle height for best pedalling efficiency, not for the best clearance when it is dropped. Pedalling with the saddle too low is inefficient and won't do your knees and hips any favours.
    It would be nice if you would stop being so rude and accept that other people ride their bikes differently than you.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I will agree with that, it’s up to you how you ride your bike (double entendre unintended), but in terms of your question it would have helped to make it obvious you were doing things the opposite way round to everyone else!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    Rowan404 wrote:
    It would be nice if you would stop being so rude and accept that other people ride their bikes differently than you.

    If you had bothered to explain that you weren't concerned about correct saddle height 3 pages ago all of us could have saved a lot of time.

    That's it now. I'm out.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009