Need advice on buying parts for possible 1x11 upgrade

Beezerk

Hi, newb here I’m more ways than one.
I bought a cheap bike a while ago and have been flying around the local woods, nothing silly just enjoying being out on the bike.
The middle chainring has started to slip badly so I’m looking at swapping out some stuff. Eventually I’d like to go from 3x9 to 1x11 but as a quick fix I’m contemplating going to 1x9 in the short term.
The bike is a Giant xtc se 2006 so I don’t want to spend a fortune but at the same time I don’t want to buy the wrong stuff which isn’t compatible :roll:
I’m properly at a loss as to what to buy, it seems a complete minefield so I’m after pointing in the right direction if anyone would be so kind.
Any advice is highly appreciated thanks.

billycool

WTTF

The easy option would be to do what you suggest and run as a 1x9. Remove inner and outer chainrings and front mech and shifter.

You will need:

New `narrow wide` (NW) chainring, as this is designed for 1x set-ups and reduces the chance of dropping your chain
New rear cassette
New chain
New jockey wheels (I'm sure yours will be worn)
New (shorter) chainring bolts

Your rear derailleur should be okay but it unlikely to be a clutch style. This helps maintain tension on the chain to again stop it bouncing off. If that was a problem then you could fit a chain guide.

When you change a 3x to a 1x, the chainring bolts are usually too long so you'll need some shorter ones.

Chainring up to £30
Cassette £30-£50
Chain c.£10-15
Jockey wheels £10-£15
Bolts £5-£10

I'm sure other people will chip in.

steve_sordy

Follow this link for the RSP Chain DIrector

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.RSP-Chain-Dire ... _76633.htm

This thing is the business! It will keep your chain on and it is cheap and if you rotate the chain guide, it will last 1500 miles in sandy and gritty conditions (mine did).

larkim

You may be able to just try new NW chainring and hang the rest, that's what we did on the bike we swapped from 3x10 to 1x10. The other advice about replacing other bits of the drive train of course are entirely sensible, but as a quick short term fix you may be able to avoid that cost whilst experimenting with 1x initially.

The only fly in the ointment might be whether the chainrings on the existing crank are rivetted on rather than bolted on, that's sometimes the case if the crank is lower end (tourney) stuff. Plus you may find that getting the existing chainrings off / new ones on might involve removing the crank for which you may need to invest in a crank puller. Depending on the crank it can be possible to remove the rings without moving the crank too, but I had to remove the cranks to get the chain rings unbolted and over the remainder of the spider.

billycool

It `should` have something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RaceFace-Rid ... Sw~vNawL7A

Depends if it has original parts.

This should be the bike (couldn't find the SE).

https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bik ... item=94051

This should be the BB.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/race ... rp-prod221

All depends if the specs are correct and nothing has been upgraded.

Beezerk

Thanks for the replies.
I had a proper look last night, the front chainrings are absolutely shot along with the chain so they are the first on the list.
The crankset (if that's the right word) is a Shimano FC-M442 however this seems to be a discontinued part, good news is the chainrings are fitted with allen bolts so I can strip it down when I get chance.
So I guess my options for the front are try and source a replacement chainring for the middle gear and somehow strip it down to just have one on there (or leave it with 3 on and lock it in place somehow), or buy a whole new cranskset ready to go. I can then have a bash at the rear mech at the next payday

The Rookie

Bin all three chainrings, replace with a narrow wide using shorter bolts if needed (not all do), new chain at the same time (as that will be worn) and you may also need a new cassette if that’s worn, job done and could be done for £50. I rode 1x9 for 5 years using a conventional 11:34 cassette.

billycool

As suggested - get rid of the x3, go 1x and fit a NW chainring - make sure it's narrow wide if you are going to run 1x.

You'll need to decide what size ring you'll want - your current middle ring is probably 32T. If you spend all of your time in that and you're happy with it, then swap like for like. If you find you spin out and want a higher gear, then maybe go for 34T or 36T.

Suggest you change cassette as well, unless you know its been changed recently. If your front rings and chain are that worn, the cassette is probably fooked as well. You don't need to worry about the rear derailleur right now - just check the jockey wheels aren't worn and all pointy, like ninja throwing stars. You can change them quite easily.

If you do the above, the bike should run a lot better.

Beezerk

Awesome, thanks again.
Does such a website exist that will tell me which chainrings are compatible with my crankset or is it just a matter of removing the old ones, measuring and going from there?

JBA

M442 is an earlier incarnation of Deore. The middle chain ring has a BCD of 104mm. Any chain ring with the same BCD* should fit but if you are removing the outer chain ring you will probably need new bolts as well.

*THIS, for example.

billycool

What JBA said. I have the same sized cranks on my 2 bikes. Both are/were 2x and 3x XT 104 BCD cranks.

I did need to buy some shorter bolts as once you've taken off the bigger ring, they are usually too long.

If you aren't fussed about chain ring colour, you can get some from the Uberbike eBay shop for £16.99 rather than £29.99.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Uberbike-104 ... 283e6db1ef

Shorter bolts:

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/cate ... ring-Bolts

Then you can do matchy matchy bling as well.

Beezerk

Superb thanks.
I was contemplating trying 30t first as I’ve only just started biking in earnest so downhill speed isn’t really my thing at the minute. I live next to some mtb trails which can be quite hilly on the ride back up so making that a smidge easier is my goal at the minute.

larkim

With such a relatively small penalty cost to getting the wrong size (e.g. 30T when you find 32T or 34T would be better or vice versa) it's no great worry trying what you think will work and seeing how it goes. You can spend a lot or a little on a NW ring, I used a Works Components one for £20 and it was fine. Easier is definitely the way to go first as even if you end up slower on the flat or pedalling downhill, having to walk your bike up a hill because you can't handle the hard gearing is much less pleasant!

Beezerk

Yes you’re right, looking at the price of them it’s stupid not to try and buy. I may go for the 11 speed rear upgrade at the same time as doing the front is cheaper than I thought lol. Does anywhere sell half kits (cassette, derailleur and shifter) or is it worth shopping around for separates?

JBA

Beezerk wrote:

...cassette, derailleur and shifter...

And chain.

Sometimes you get kit offers but it's often cheaper to hunt around for the parts separately. Have a look at Merlin, Ribble, CRC, Wiggle, etc.

billycool

Shop around. Different shops do different deals and it can be cheaper to buy items individually.

02gf74

You need to figure out which gears you are using. Going to single chainring means you have less gears.

Is it more important for you to be able to cycle up steep hills or are you worried about spinning out on the flat or down hill.

You can get wider range cassette, even in 9 speed, I recently fitted 11-40 with 32t chainring. I'm likely to spin out but that is better than having to walk up hills.

Wider range cassette is likely to require a hanger extender.

Beezerk

Thanks for all the replies again, finally got the bike modded and on the tracks.
After loads of reading I ended up with...

30T Works Components NW front chainring
ShimanoSLX M7000 rear derailleur and 11-42 cassette
Shimano XT M8000 11 speed shifter

Everything new apart from the cassette which was used from Ebay but mint, cost about £130 all in with a chain as well.
Took it out last night before the match and was great until my chain snapped about 2 miles out my fault as I'd messed up shortening the chain (I've learned the hard way) so I have another on order and the proper chain splitter.
Loving the bike, gone up some quite steep hills and I haven't been up to the largest gear on the rear yet so maybe a 32t would have been better but there's no rush right now.
Had great fun fitting al the parts and learnt loads, found a few issues which I need to sort out long term, but again, no rush to do this at the minute.

Cheers

02gf74

You didn't say but does bike have 26 or 29 in wheels, I suspect from its age, 2006, it is 26.

In which case 30t chainring is quite small for use with 42t.
If you increase the teeth on the front, make sure you have correct length of chain. Use split links if you are not sure how to add on a short length,

Beezerk

02GF74 wrote:

You didn't say but does bike have 26 or 29 in wheels, I suspect from its age, 2006, it is 26.

In which case 30t chainring is quite small for use with 42t.
If you increase the teeth on the front, make sure you have correct length of chain. Use split links if you are not sure how to add on a short length,

Yes I think you're right.
I've been out twice now with the new set up and not been past 8th gear on the back when going up hills. Granted I've been doing a lot of training so my leg strength and fitness has improved, it's fine for now though so I'll see how it goes.

The Rookie

IF you are only using the top two gears (8 and 9) going uphil then you definitely need a bigger chaining......and maybe a pro' contract.

Beezerk

The Rookie wrote:

IF you are only using the top two gears (8 and 9) going uphil then you definitely need a bigger chaining......and maybe a pro' contract.

I'll rephrase to steady slopes then.