Cable management

danlightbulb

Hi all.

The cables on my bike are, i think, a mix of too long and too short.

Is there an accepted way of best routing cables from the bars around the headtube? For example should cables go around the headtube on the opposite side to where they originated from, or the same side? At tye moment my gear cable is too short to send it around the opposite side of the headtube so its going same side, but the rear brake line and dropper cable are too long so i have them going around the opposite side of the headtube. This means all three cables are going round the same side of the headtube.

02gf74

Either routing is used but generally the cable/hose goes around the opposite side of the head tube.

So long as the cable /hose does not restrict movement of the Handlebar, then don't worry about the aesthetics.

Too long cable /hose can be shortened, too short the need to be replaced by longer and cut down.

danlightbulb

This is the best I can get it without resorting to trimming.

JBA

Rear brake hose and dropper cable need to be shortened ideally.
Rear gear cable also looks a little long.
As they are they will function fine but cause rub on the fork crown.

danlightbulb

Rear gear cable is too short to go round the headtube though, hence it is currently passing same side. Cables are currently rubbing on top of fork crown, next to where the compression knob is. Only ridden it twice and already paint has rubbed off. To get gear cable around the headtube Id have to buy a new longer one. Front brake hose looks twisted too but i dont know if its because its too long or due to the bendy routing through the clip on the fork.

mattyfez

It's already a lot neater than mine, lol!
I just resorted to putting invisi frame patches on the head tube where they rub :oops:

JBA

A new rear cable inner and outer will only cost a few quid and it will look much neater routed the other side of the steerer tube.
Shortening the rear brake hose shouldn’t be too difficult. You just need to be careful and not allow fluid to leak out. Have a look on the Epic Bleed Solutions web site for a step by step guide.

mattyfez

Mind you my frame is xl and has a long head tube so it tends to rub the tube rather than the crown.

steve_sordy

There must be some basic principles to follow to get the cables the correct length. How about these?

# You don't want the handle bar going through 90 degrees to wrench the cables loose from their fittings. So set them up so that the bar can move to be in line with the top tube.

# Where possible, the cables should pass across the front of the head tube. It just looks nicer, OK! And it helps to achieve the first principle.

# Cable rub must be avoided, so if altering the routing can't help, and cable ties can't help, then use some helicopter tape.

# If the cables won't stand up correctly and insist on going at odd angles, use a loosely secured cable tie to restrain them.

Please feel free to agree/disagree/add more. I just created them, so there are sure to be better ones out there.

danlightbulb

Im having trouble finding replacement inserts & olives for brake lines. Anyone know where to get them from?

veronese68

This just reminds me I really need to sort mine out. :oops:

steve_sordy

danlightbulb wrote:

Im having trouble finding replacement inserts & olives for brake lines. Anyone know where to get them from?

I Googled "inserts and olives for brake cables" and got loads of sensible looking results.

I'd past the link in, but it is about four lines long and even the Google URL shortener says it is unable to shorten it.

veronese68

steve_sordy wrote:

I'd past the link in, but it is about four lines long and even the Google URL shortener says it is unable to shorten it.

It's still long and clunky looking as you write the post but you can make them look shorter by using the URL button above but pasting the URL before the first close brackets with an = sign before it, then give the URL a name between the two sets of brackets. If people click on that name it will go to that URL. If you quote this post and look at the link below you'll see what I mean.
Destroyed?

steve_sordy

Veronese68 wrote:

steve_sordy wrote:

I'd past the link in, but it is about four lines long and even the Google URL shortener says it is unable to shorten it.

It's still long and clunky looking as you write the post but you can make them look shorter by using the URL button above but pasting the URL before the first close brackets with an = sign before it, then give the URL a name between the two sets of brackets. If people click on that name it will go to that URL. If you quote this post and look at the link below you'll see what I mean.
Destroyed?

I think I've got it.

global cooling?

danlightbulb

steve_sordy wrote:

danlightbulb wrote:

Im having trouble finding replacement inserts & olives for brake lines. Anyone know where to get them from?

I Googled "inserts and olives for brake cables" and got loads of sensible looking results.

I'd past the link in, but it is about four lines long and even the Google URL shortener says it is unable to shorten it.

Do standard ones fit or do I need dedicated SRAM ones? There is like a £14 price difference.

https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/58593 ... gLPWPD_BwE

https://www.rushcycles.co.uk/m49b0s517p ... es-Inserts

or bog standard:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shim ... -prod69605


And do I need a special gear cable for SRAM GX shifter/mech? Seems to be too many options eg Clarkes, Jagwire, 4mm, 5mm?

Also what cable cutter will I need to make a neat job? Ive only ever used cheap pliers and they are rubbish.

JBA

I'd stick with the proper SRAM ones unless anyone can confirm standard Shimano barb and olive will work.
Have you disconnected a hose to confirm what is currently fitted?

SRAM gear cable is 4mm outer.

I use a Park Tool CN10 cable cutter for hoses and gear cables. It does a nice clean cut.

danlightbulb

Am i looking in the wrong place here? Even gear cable sets are running to £15, and CRC seem to be out of stock on all the standard stuff, plus lots of their cables dont seem to come with outers.

At this rate its gonna cost me £50 to redo these cables.

02gf74

The sram threaded inserts are a recent innovation, I've seen them on sram tl brakes, I.e. The current models. I'm not 100% sure but they may be reusable, the red alloy olive unscrews from the barb, left hand thread and the barb also unscrews, there is torx recess for the tool. Google about these to see if reusable.

What model brakes are they?

The brass olive would fit all other brakes, shimano, formula, avid, magura and is not reusable. I cut them a slot lengthways each side with a dremel and then slice through the cable to reuse the barb.

Get cable, stainless Steel inner about £3, outer about £2 per metre.
The rear can be reused for the front as it is longer.

danlightbulb

They are Sram guide r.

Crc seem to sell outer by the metre but one of the reviews said they ordered 4m and it came in 4x1m pieces. Cant be arsed with that so just want to go into a shop and buy it myself.

thistle_

danlightbulb wrote:

They are Sram guide r.

Crc seem to sell outer by the metre but one of the reviews said they ordered 4m and it came in 4x1m pieces. Cant be arsed with that so just want to go into a shop and buy it myself.

I ordered 5m from them and it came folded in places (completely folder over) to fit in the box which meant it was no use for the full length outers I was using. They sent a replacement coil after I contacted them.

Most bike shops have the 100m coils and will cut to length.
You'll need ferrules to match the outer size. I like the Shimano SP40 ones with the seals in the end. You can reuse your old ones if they are not cracked/bent/damaged.